E91 Straight Six Bearding
Discussion
survivalist said:
Would be interested in peoples opinions. Sell it as a project? Or just trade in?
As long as the roof is closed "properly" I would just sell it as a regular car. It's a second hand car, most have faults.My sunroof is broken and I've given in and bought a whole new sunroof - not looking forward to fitting it.
Plus (IMO) the 335i E91 is a unicorn that sells for crazy money so why not cash in.
survivalist said:
because I also own a E92 M3
Out of interest, is it not a bit weird owning two very similar cars?I get the characters are different of course, but the base car is the same.
I keep toying with what to replace my Z4 with and an E93 M3 is top the list, but I'm worried it'll feel like a heavier and less economical version of my E91 335d most of the time.
Jakg said:
survivalist said:
Would be interested in peoples opinions. Sell it as a project? Or just trade in?
As long as the roof is closed "properly" I would just sell it as a regular car. It's a second hand car, most have faults.My sunroof is broken and I've given in and bought a whole new sunroof - not looking forward to fitting it.
Plus (IMO) the 335i E91 is a unicorn that sells for crazy money so why not cash in.
survivalist said:
because I also own a E92 M3
Out of interest, is it not a bit weird owning two very similar cars?I get the characters are different of course, but the base car is the same.
I keep toying with what to replace my Z4 with and an E93 M3 is top the list, but I'm worried it'll feel like a heavier and less economical version of my E91 335d most of the time.
The M3 and 335i are closer in feel but chassis on the M3 feels more alive. The steering, especially, is much better.
Been a while since I’ve driven an E93, but I imagine the weight will make it feel very different to a Z4 if any type. It will feel light in torque compared to any e9x diesel, especially one that is 200kg lighter.
ETA - the main issue is what to replace the 335i with that will feel significantly different to the M3. Am potentially thinking about an F80 M3 or Golf R Esatte.
Edited by survivalist on Thursday 10th June 06:37
RelentlessForwardProgress said:
How about a change from an E91? An E46 touring, 117k Miles, lovely rare colour and interior colour. Not a 330i bit a 325. I guess you’d expect to pay for a nice rare one like that:
Wow!
Surely that price is madness even for a rare colour? It's not even particularly low mileage.Wow!
OTOH it doesn't have a single mention of rust on the MOT history which must be pretty unusual for an E46 at this point!
MajorMantra said:
Surely that price is madness even for a rare colour? It's not even particularly low mileage.
OTOH it doesn't have a single mention of rust on the MOT history which must be pretty unusual for an E46 at this point!
It is a crazy price. More than double what I just sold my 330d Touring for, more like 335d price. OTOH it doesn't have a single mention of rust on the MOT history which must be pretty unusual for an E46 at this point!
helix402 said:
MajorMantra said:
Surely that price is madness even for a rare colour? It's not even particularly low mileage.
OTOH it doesn't have a single mention of rust on the MOT history which must be pretty unusual for an E46 at this point!
It is a crazy price. More than double what I just sold my 330d Touring for, more like 335d price. OTOH it doesn't have a single mention of rust on the MOT history which must be pretty unusual for an E46 at this point!
Anyone on here suffered with valvetronic issues?
My 130i was running a bit lumpily the other day so I plugged Carly in and had this error code:
I cleared the code, but it’s since come back. The car starts fine and generally seems ok in normal driving (I can’t decide if it’s down on power or if that’s in my head). The only real issue it has is a slightly lumpy idle. It didn’t sound quite right and you can feel a slight vibration through the steering wheel. Sometimes the revs will fluctuate and if you blip the throttle in neutral, the revs will drop down to 500rpm before going back up.
I have a warranty on the car but I can’t get it into a garage until 22nd June.
My 130i was running a bit lumpily the other day so I plugged Carly in and had this error code:
I cleared the code, but it’s since come back. The car starts fine and generally seems ok in normal driving (I can’t decide if it’s down on power or if that’s in my head). The only real issue it has is a slightly lumpy idle. It didn’t sound quite right and you can feel a slight vibration through the steering wheel. Sometimes the revs will fluctuate and if you blip the throttle in neutral, the revs will drop down to 500rpm before going back up.
I have a warranty on the car but I can’t get it into a garage until 22nd June.
Nothing from me Sam I'm afraid.
I have my own issues though.
While changing the oil cooler gasket, someone has been there before me and stripped the bolt holes. new bolts are ordered from BMW (£19!!!) But I am deciding if I should either get a new oil filter housing, or just nut and bolt the two upper fasteners, as fortunately the bottom bolt has gone in and torqued up okay.
I have my own issues though.
While changing the oil cooler gasket, someone has been there before me and stripped the bolt holes. new bolts are ordered from BMW (£19!!!) But I am deciding if I should either get a new oil filter housing, or just nut and bolt the two upper fasteners, as fortunately the bottom bolt has gone in and torqued up okay.
Mr Tidy said:
JakeT said:
£8,000 for a 325i touring is mega money. I think lots of people are chancing it with the future classic thing.
Bonkers money IMHO, but good news for someone I know who is going to be selling a 54 plate Imola Red E46 325i Sport Touring soon!JakeT said:
Nothing from me Sam I'm afraid.
I have my own issues though.
While changing the oil cooler gasket, someone has been there before me and stripped the bolt holes. new bolts are ordered from BMW (£19!!!) But I am deciding if I should either get a new oil filter housing, or just nut and bolt the two upper fasteners, as fortunately the bottom bolt has gone in and torqued up okay.
I can imagine the frustration. When a relatively simple job turns into a huge faff. I think we've all been there. I have my own issues though.
While changing the oil cooler gasket, someone has been there before me and stripped the bolt holes. new bolts are ordered from BMW (£19!!!) But I am deciding if I should either get a new oil filter housing, or just nut and bolt the two upper fasteners, as fortunately the bottom bolt has gone in and torqued up okay.
How much is a new oil filter housing? I'd be tempted to spend the money and do it 'properly'.
MattOz said:
Thought it was going to be your old one for a moment, Matt. Looks nice, and seems sensibly priced with the mileage taken into account too. I kind of want that, but for the money over a 330i, I’m not sure it would be worth it.MattOz said:
Looks like a lovely machine. I'm tempted, but I agree with JakeT that it's a lot of extra money to spend over what I'd get for my 330i. That said, the spec is much better than 95% of the 330i manual tourings I looked at when I was in the market, and I expect you'd get most of your money back when the time comes to sell, so it's actually not a bad proposition. MattOz said:
That’s stunning. I love the colour combo and it actually has a good spec. When I was looking a few weeks ago, pretty much every E9x in budget was full on poverty spec. I’d have been very interested in that if it had been for sale three or four weeks ago.JakeT said:
In a bid to get some more information out there to prevent people having a bad time with their cars, I've a suggestion to the owners here:
Lube your boot hinges.
What a revelation, I know. I always thought the bootlid on my car, and the glass were a bit stiff. I even replaced the boot struts as they didn't seem to be lifting the boot properly. New ones were better, but not ideal. Then, over the cold snap they were really stiff. The window being particularly reluctant to move. I could even see the N/S hinge flexing. I gave the hinges a shot of Lithium spray and thought that would do it. But the stiffness remained. After some reading, these hinges get dirt and moisture inside and can snap. Replacing the hinges is a sad job, the previous owner of my car has replaced one.
In light of this, I thought I'd set out to lubricate them. In this case, I spent about an hour spraying WD-40, and moving the glass back and forth. Using paper towels to catch the WD-40 and muck, a lot came out. I lubed the following areas liberally:
And for a closer look... (I need to do some more cleaning in there it seems )
The labelled points move with the glass portion. Only one hinge part moves with the bootlid. With the glass already open, the bootlid was very easy to move.
The glass did losen off eventually, and then I kept doing the above actions, and it did free off nicely. Finished off with the Lithium spray to keep further dirt and moisture out. The boot opens and shuts a lot more nicely now, as does the glass. Hopefully it should also mean I don't need to replace the boot hinges, either.
My hinges weren't too bad, but I had recently noticed the bonnet release was a little stiff. I had this post of Jake's in the back of my mind and have for a while now. Anyway, this weekend just gone I had a bit of time without being mithered so gave all of the hinges and catches a good cleaning out with WD40. Left it a day and then lubed them all up with some lithium spray as well.Lube your boot hinges.
What a revelation, I know. I always thought the bootlid on my car, and the glass were a bit stiff. I even replaced the boot struts as they didn't seem to be lifting the boot properly. New ones were better, but not ideal. Then, over the cold snap they were really stiff. The window being particularly reluctant to move. I could even see the N/S hinge flexing. I gave the hinges a shot of Lithium spray and thought that would do it. But the stiffness remained. After some reading, these hinges get dirt and moisture inside and can snap. Replacing the hinges is a sad job, the previous owner of my car has replaced one.
In light of this, I thought I'd set out to lubricate them. In this case, I spent about an hour spraying WD-40, and moving the glass back and forth. Using paper towels to catch the WD-40 and muck, a lot came out. I lubed the following areas liberally:
And for a closer look... (I need to do some more cleaning in there it seems
)The labelled points move with the glass portion. Only one hinge part moves with the bootlid. With the glass already open, the bootlid was very easy to move.
The glass did losen off eventually, and then I kept doing the above actions, and it did free off nicely. Finished off with the Lithium spray to keep further dirt and moisture out. The boot opens and shuts a lot more nicely now, as does the glass. Hopefully it should also mean I don't need to replace the boot hinges, either.
Oddly I did notice that the door pins on the driver's side (front and rear) are looking a little rusty, whereas those on the passenger side look pristine. Not sure if that's a sign they've been adjusted in the past or not.
Anyone replaced the pins before? Is it straightforward or do you end up having to spend ages to realign the door? I'd have thought if you replace one at a time it should be straightforward.
I'm also going to get some new boot struts - whilst the hinges are nice and free the struts are cream crackered.
I've also been looking again at the slightly droopy rear wiper - it's not as bad as some but it's definitely looking a little off. I suspect it's the rubber stop on the wiper pivot that's worn/perished, as that seems to set the stop position (excl the splines on the wiper are/spindle obvs), but from what I can tell from realoem this isn't a separate part - it's all part of the pivot assembly. A bit annoying. I might try a bodge instead - I have a roll of some narrow 3M rubber tape I used to mount the sunblind kit (when the original pads inevitably failed) so I might try a small piece on the rubber to see if it gives the right degree of adjustment to the stop position.
MattOz said:
Was about to post that very car in here!!Absolutely love it, dont need it, but the temptation is very strong
Swervin_Mervin said:
My hinges weren't too bad, but I had recently noticed the bonnet release was a little stiff. I had this post of Jake's in the back of my mind and have for a while now. Anyway, this weekend just gone I had a bit of time without being mithered so gave all of the hinges and catches a good cleaning out with WD40. Left it a day and then lubed them all up with some lithium spray as well.
Oddly I did notice that the door pins on the driver's side (front and rear) are looking a little rusty, whereas those on the passenger side look pristine. Not sure if that's a sign they've been adjusted in the past or not.
Anyone replaced the pins before? Is it straightforward or do you end up having to spend ages to realign the door? I'd have thought if you replace one at a time it should be straightforward.
I'm also going to get some new boot struts - whilst the hinges are nice and free the struts are cream crackered.
I've also been looking again at the slightly droopy rear wiper - it's not as bad as some but it's definitely looking a little off. I suspect it's the rubber stop on the wiper pivot that's worn/perished, as that seems to set the stop position (excl the splines on the wiper are/spindle obvs), but from what I can tell from realoem this isn't a separate part - it's all part of the pivot assembly. A bit annoying. I might try a bodge instead - I have a roll of some narrow 3M rubber tape I used to mount the sunblind kit (when the original pads inevitably failed) so I might try a small piece on the rubber to see if it gives the right degree of adjustment to the stop position.
Glad to hear the post was of some help. Oddly I did notice that the door pins on the driver's side (front and rear) are looking a little rusty, whereas those on the passenger side look pristine. Not sure if that's a sign they've been adjusted in the past or not.
Anyone replaced the pins before? Is it straightforward or do you end up having to spend ages to realign the door? I'd have thought if you replace one at a time it should be straightforward.
I'm also going to get some new boot struts - whilst the hinges are nice and free the struts are cream crackered.
I've also been looking again at the slightly droopy rear wiper - it's not as bad as some but it's definitely looking a little off. I suspect it's the rubber stop on the wiper pivot that's worn/perished, as that seems to set the stop position (excl the splines on the wiper are/spindle obvs), but from what I can tell from realoem this isn't a separate part - it's all part of the pivot assembly. A bit annoying. I might try a bodge instead - I have a roll of some narrow 3M rubber tape I used to mount the sunblind kit (when the original pads inevitably failed) so I might try a small piece on the rubber to see if it gives the right degree of adjustment to the stop position.
. I did something similar a few weeks ago. I use an old toothbrush and WD-40 to clean, and then lithium spray to keep them right. I did the bonnet catches, door hinges and check straps. Makes a nice difference to how the doors open and shut. I gave the boot hinges another quick go, too.Ive not replaced the pins. If I were to, I would get a jack under the door (with a block of wood to avoid damage) to hold it in position, and as you said, do them one at a time. They shouldn’t have a massive bearing on the door shut lines I wouldn’t think, but I’d do them one at a time.
Have you got any droopy wiper pics at all? I disassemble and lube the rear wiper pivot yearly, but just pop the blade back on where I think it goes. Never had any issues that way as the motor only has a c.180 degree sweep angle on it.
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