E91 Straight Six Bearding

[JakeT]

helix402 said:

pmorg4 said:

I should really check my drains looking at the biblical rain outside!

I need to get the alignment sorted on my car as I can tell it's not quite right. Before I do that, I was thinking of replacing the rear control arms as I had an advisory for the rear upper on both sides. I'm not looking to upgrade to M3 parts so will likely just buy the OE spec TRW arms from Autodoc. Which ones do people usually replace? There are about 4 on each side, although at least one on the bottom seems a bit pointless to replace as there are no bushes or ball joints in the arm.

Re the rear arms, BMW do value line kits which are quite good value.

I bought a pair as the value line kit for £190 a few years ago. Came with all new fixings too

[stevesuk]

Any tips on calibrating the power fold function of the side mirrors? There are videos on YouTube that show the mirrors sat in completely the wrong position when folded)unfolded... but ours isn't that far wrong. The passenger side mirror seems to be sat just a few degrees of rotation out of place when unfolded. Just enough that when the mirror glass is fully adjusted inwards, you can't see the side of the car when sat in the driver's seat. If you move the mirror housing by hand, you can get it in to the right position, but not "locked" in place.

It's there a calibration method, or is it likely to be damaged mechanism?

Thanks!

[pmorg4]

That seems reasonable given that it's probably a good idea to replace bolts etc.

[pmorg4]

Just having a look at the diagrams and I’m guessing the “upper” arm is number 18, although it seems like it would be prudent to replace 14, 18 and 19 assuming they are all reasonably accessible, given that all of them have bushes and are simple bolt-in fittings (I.e. no pressing in/out of bushes etc). It also looks like there are value line kits for all three of these arms, so wondering on what you guys thoughts are on these as to whether they all wear at similar rates or if one of other of them is more susceptible to wear than the others.

http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E91N/Europe/335i...

[d_a_n1979]

pmorg4 said:

Just having a look at the diagrams and I’m guessing the “upper” arm is number 18, although it seems like it would be prudent to replace 14, 18 and 19 assuming they are all reasonably accessible, given that all of them have bushes and are simple bolt-in fittings (I.e. no pressing in/out of bushes etc). It also looks like there are value line kits for all three of these arms, so wondering on what you guys thoughts are on these as to whether they all wear at similar rates or if one of other of them is more susceptible to wear than the others.

http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E91N/Europe/335i...

As you said; I'd replace them all, both sides. Peace of mind then

I'd look at prices for TRW, Lemforder and Meyle HD on Autodoc and see what your local motorfactors can quote you on MOOG arms - so what their prices are like in comparison to the BMW arms (TRW & Lemforder are OEM BMW, you'll see where the BMW emblem is ground off etc)

You'll more than likely need to get tracking & alignment sorted after though for peace of mind

[pmorg4]

Thanks Dan, good advice. I’ll start searching and compare with BMW Value Line kit prices. I assume the arms from Lemforder, TRW etc don’t include bolts - is it recommended to replace them along with the arms?

As stated in a previous post, I’m sure my car needs an alignment anyway so it makes sense to get this lot refreshed first and get it aligned afterwards

[helix402]

pmorg4 said:

Thanks Dan, good advice. I’ll start searching and compare with BMW Value Line kit prices. I assume the arms from Lemforder, TRW etc don’t include bolts - is it recommended to replace them along with the arms?

As stated in a previous post, I’m sure my car needs an alignment anyway so it makes sense to get this lot refreshed first and get it aligned afterwards

Yes, new nuts are bolts are needed with the arms.

[d_a_n1979]

pmorg4 said:

Thanks Dan, good advice. I’ll start searching and compare with BMW Value Line kit prices. I assume the arms from Lemforder, TRW etc don’t include bolts - is it recommended to replace them along with the arms?

As stated in a previous post, I’m sure my car needs an alignment anyway so it makes sense to get this lot refreshed first and get it aligned afterwards

helix402 said:

Yes, new nuts are bolts are needed with the arms.

I said that without moving my lips

[d_a_n1979]

pmorg4 said:

Thanks Dan, good advice. I’ll start searching and compare with BMW Value Line kit prices. I assume the arms from Lemforder, TRW etc don’t include bolts - is it recommended to replace them along with the arms?

As stated in a previous post, I’m sure my car needs an alignment anyway so it makes sense to get this lot refreshed first and get it aligned afterwards

As above, new bolts needed

I'm a huge fan of MOOG parts, 2-5 year no quibble warranty and your local motorfactors will be able to source them

I've only ever had one issue with MOOG and it was sorted there & then by my local motorfactors (General Traffic)

I have unfortunately had a fair few issues with OEM BMW & Lemforder on my previous E39 touring and my previous F01 7 series! OEM BMW top mounts failed in 11 months, Lemforder drop links and main thrust arms failed on the E39 touring and both drop links on the F01 failed!

All ordered via Cotswolds BMW & Autodoc; got them sorted easy enough but it wasn't helpful...

Sreten of M539_Restorations uses TRW a lot as well as Lemforder etc

[pmorg4]

Thanks both. Worrying about the failure rates of genuine parts! I know what you mean, it’s not the cost of the part that concerns me, it’s the time and hassle of replacing it again. With the low mileage I do my expectation is to replace any part only once during my ownership.

I’ll look up MOOG, not a brand I’m familiar with

[d_a_n1979]

pmorg4 said:

Thanks both. Worrying about the failure rates of genuine parts! I know what you mean, it’s not the cost of the part that concerns me, it’s the time and hassle of replacing it again. With the low mileage I do my expectation is to replace any part only once during my ownership.

I’ll look up MOOG, not a brand I’m familiar with

Absolute agree; more annoying when it comes to parts with premium prices and then the faff of replacing them and then sorting your refund etc

[Blueprint]

Does anybody know where I can source an oil thermostat gasket for an N54 - it seems to be overlooked in oil filter housing gasket replacement recommendations online, and that could be because it looks like BMW don/t sell the gasket on it's own.
I'd rather not buy the whole thermostat, but I do have a very small weep that needs fixing.

[ATM]

My mate bought this yesterday based on my recommendation that he should consider an N52 330i. This morning it died. The first RAC man spent about an hour rummaging around under the back seat, presumably looking for fuel delivery related problems. Then gave up and decided they need the big truck. I scanned it with my cheapo Aldi scanner and found 2 codes, P0597 and P0304. 1 relates to a misfire on cylinder 4 and the other the thermostat. So it did develop a misfire which cleared by stopping and restarting the car, so hopefully the misfire is just a tired coil on cylinder 4. I'm not sure if a thermostat problem would shut down the car. If anyone has any ideas why it is just cutting out then please let me know, thanks.

[BenEK9]

me said:

Im going to say something thats probably not going to be popular here.

I sold my manual n52 touring for a diesel.

Yep, a 330d manual e91.

sold the N52 in november 2020, sold the M57 in august 2021 for a civic tourer that was great transport but back into something quickish for the daily, a 335i LCI in Alpine White.

Happy so far and my 4th E91.

[Sufyaan]

Hi all,

Which oil you guys are running in your 330/325's? (currently on 140k miles). I purchased a large drum recommended on here a while back but have lost the link. Just wondering what options I have now.

Also a side note, my brother is looking to purchase a 330/325i. However, the prices/condition, etc. vary on Autotrader. He has seen a 330i saloon locally - it's just gone over 150k, has full documented history and seems to have a decent spec. He's hoping to have a chat with the owner and discuss a price. Any idea on a fair price please? He's also keen on not causing offence with the offer as he sees the owner often

[Crata]

E91 335d M57
Auto, leather interior w heated seats, adaptive lights, 331M 19' wheels.


Have owned for a couple of years. Replaced springs and shocks. Changed tyres from RFs to Eagle F1 with a taller profile. M3 front control arms.

To do list involves replacing engine mounts as vibration starting to come through to cabin, a wheel bearing that's starting to drone, a valve cover gasket that is leaking oil, consider replacing rims as they have been refurbed a few times, due to how prone they are to cracking. A bit whiney from the turbo at low speed but no other symptoms.

[Court_S]

ATM said:

My mate bought this yesterday based on my recommendation that he should consider an N52 330i. This morning it died. The first RAC man spent about an hour rummaging around under the back seat, presumably looking for fuel delivery related problems. Then gave up and decided they need the big truck. I scanned it with my cheapo Aldi scanner and found 2 codes, P0597 and P0304. 1 relates to a misfire on cylinder 4 and the other the thermostat. So it did develop a misfire which cleared by stopping and restarting the car, so hopefully the misfire is just a tired coil on cylinder 4. I'm not sure if a thermostat problem would shut down the car. If anyone has any ideas why it is just cutting out then please let me know, thanks.

Did you get anywhere with this?

Was there any evidence of the water pump / thermostat being replaced? Just wondering if that’s shagged and it’s the engine protecting itself.

[ATM]

Court_S said:

ATM said:

My mate bought this yesterday based on my recommendation that he should consider an N52 330i. This morning it died. The first RAC man spent about an hour rummaging around under the back seat, presumably looking for fuel delivery related problems. Then gave up and decided they need the big truck. I scanned it with my cheapo Aldi scanner and found 2 codes, P0597 and P0304. 1 relates to a misfire on cylinder 4 and the other the thermostat. So it did develop a misfire which cleared by stopping and restarting the car, so hopefully the misfire is just a tired coil on cylinder 4. I'm not sure if a thermostat problem would shut down the car. If anyone has any ideas why it is just cutting out then please let me know, thanks.

Did you get anywhere with this?

Was there any evidence of the water pump / thermostat being replaced? Just wondering if that’s shagged and it’s the engine protecting itself.

No

Car has been recovered by RAC to my friend's house. I didn't realise the car would shut down if it wants to protect itself. I assumed it would throw an EML and either keep on running or go into limp. The RAC man didn't seem to think so either as he spent time looking under the back seat. Will a coolant problem get the engine to shut off like this?

The only other thing to mention is my friend had just filled the tank to the brim before this really started happening. But that could be a red herring. So he bought it Saturday and drove the car about 20 miles. Sunday morning we went to get some egg and bacon butties and then got fuel. Then he went to leave and the car ran for maybe 20 seconds before it cut out. Then it would either not fire or only run for a second or two.

[Court_S]

ATM said:

No

Car has been recovered by RAC to my friend's house. I didn't realise the car would shut down if it wants to protect itself. I assumed it would throw an EML and either keep on running or go into limp. The RAC man didn't seem to think so either as he spent time looking under the back seat. Will a coolant problem get the engine to shut off like this?

The only other thing to mention is my friend had just filled the tank to the brim before this really started happening. But that could be a red herring. So he bought it Saturday and drove the car about 20 miles. Sunday morning we went to get some egg and bacon butties and then got fuel. Then he went to leave and the car ran for maybe 20 seconds before it cut out. Then it would either not fire or only run for a second or two.

If I’m honest, thinking about it, I was barking up the wrong tree. When the water pump fails, you get a warning light and a short window of time to turn the car off before overheating. It seems like the thermostat error code is a red herring as to why it don’t start.

It does sound more like a fuelling / ignition issue given that it’s not firing at all.

There seem to be a few possible causes for code P0304<

• bad plug
• faulty injector
• bad coil
• harness is open or shorted
• poor electrical connection
• insufficient compression
• incorrect fuel pressure
• air intake leak

Saying that any forum comments relating to that code seem to reference a slight hiccup / rough running rather than not firing at all.

Edited by Court_S on Tuesday 11th April 10:37

[helix402]

I wonder if it’s water in the DME. Or a battery cable problem.