E91 Straight Six Bearding
Discussion
christhreadgill said:
Plug & play, but need the module coded to your VIN.
You just need it coded to the car (i.e. default code the settings, then modify as you see fit). There is a VIN coded in these but it'll work fine without changing it.There's a bit of fiddling around with NCS Expert required as FRM1 shows up as FRMFA and FRM2/3 show as NFRM. You need to edit the build date in the vehicle order to something like 9/2007 or later so that the NFRM option shows up in the ECU list. It should be pretty straightforward for someone familiar with coding these.
I replaced the FRM1 to FRM2 in my previous E91 330i to get DRLs and welcome lights, so let me know if you need any further help.
pmorg4 said:
You just need it coded to the car (i.e. default code the settings, then modify as you see fit). There is a VIN coded in these but it'll work fine without changing it.
There's a bit of fiddling around with NCS Expert required as FRM1 shows up as FRMFA and FRM2/3 show as NFRM. You need to edit the build date in the vehicle order to something like 9/2007 or later so that the NFRM option shows up in the ECU list. It should be pretty straightforward for someone familiar with coding these.
I replaced the FRM1 to FRM2 in my previous E91 330i to get DRLs and welcome lights, so let me know if you need any further help.
Thanks. I’ve sent a message to the local coding guy who also repairs FRM’s so is hopefully pretty familiar with them. For now, I’ll just have to switch the angel eyes on manually. There's a bit of fiddling around with NCS Expert required as FRM1 shows up as FRMFA and FRM2/3 show as NFRM. You need to edit the build date in the vehicle order to something like 9/2007 or later so that the NFRM option shows up in the ECU list. It should be pretty straightforward for someone familiar with coding these.
I replaced the FRM1 to FRM2 in my previous E91 330i to get DRLs and welcome lights, so let me know if you need any further help.
ATM said:
ATM said:
Court_S said:
ATM said:
He has now bought one of these and he is seeing a few errors the most urgent of them he believes is this one
2E77 Firing, voltage supply
Has he got anywhere with it yet?2E77 Firing, voltage supply
To be honest, it sounds like he could do with getting it to a decent garage for someone who knows what they’re doing to look at it.
And finding someone decent is proving hard work.
Latest diagnosis is the main ECU is capput. He is currently waiting for a used replacement to be coded to his car. Will try to remember to update here once I know more.
ATM said:
Just updating here as its been a while. My friend's car still not working. Car had the main battery cable replaced and still dead.
Latest diagnosis is the main ECU is capput. He is currently waiting for a used replacement to be coded to his car. Will try to remember to update here once I know more.
Sounds like an utter ball ache. It’s been going on for a while a while now; hope he gets it sorted soon. Latest diagnosis is the main ECU is capput. He is currently waiting for a used replacement to be coded to his car. Will try to remember to update here once I know more.
Court_S said:
I’ve not checked the instrument cluster. I’ll have a quick look tomorrow, I take it I just scroll through with the wheel?
Yeah it’s in the light settings menu but I’m reasonably sure you won’t have it if you don’t have a later spec FRN but it’s worth a check. Pic attached if it helps
nipsips said:
Court_S said:
I’ve not checked the instrument cluster. I’ll have a quick look tomorrow, I take it I just scroll through with the wheel?
Yeah it’s in the light settings menu but I’m reasonably sure you won’t have it if you don’t have a later spec FRN but it’s worth a check. Pic attached if it helps
Court_S said:
nipsips said:
Thanks. Still no joy; looks like it’s time for a new FRM. pmorg4 said:
I would always recommend the proper BMW tools (INPA, ISTA-D, NCS Expert, etc) if you can face the learning curve. It's cheap and you won't find anything more powerful. Any if the usual aftermarket solutions will be absolutely fine for simple coding and battery registration though.
The problem is, I don’t have a windows pc. When you add it all up it’s a significant cost for something that wont be used all that much (hopefully). sam.rog said:
The problem is, I don’t have a windows pc. When you add it all up it’s a significant cost for something that wont be used all that much (hopefully).
Fair enough, although the requirements are very modest so even an old used laptop is probably more than sufficient unless you want to do programming which I'm guessing is unlikely. You could pick up a used laptop that is up to the job for less than the licence cost of many aftermarket solutions. If you just want to read codes then agreed a cheap Bluetooth OBD reader will work just fine, but if you do have a tricky fault down the road the diagnosis capabilities of the BMW tools will more than pay for themselves. Gad-Westy said:
What are common causes of AC leaks on these cars? I know court s is going through this too at the moment. Mine has been leak tested so far. I’ll probably get an as specialist to look at it but wouldn’t mind knowing possibilities in advance.
I’ve got to wait until Sunday for the chap to come an look at ours, but from what I can gather, the condenser can end up with a hole in it (relatively easy and inexpensive to replace). The clutch’s seem prone to s
tting themselves on the compressor and some report leaks that way shuck is obviously a bigger day out but probably not too labour intensive to change. Then there’s the actual pipes which there appear to be three of snaking around the engine. If these are sitting in debris collecting water they could corrode. The pipes look to be c.£100 each for OE jobbies, but I’m guessing getting at them will be a total pain in the arse.nipsips said:
Court_S said:
I’ve not checked the instrument cluster. I’ll have a quick look tomorrow, I take it I just scroll through with the wheel?
Yeah it’s in the light settings menu but I’m reasonably sure you won’t have it if you don’t have a later spec FRN but it’s worth a check. Pic attached if it helps
When the lights are in auto mode I end up with DRL’s, but it’s both the angel eyes and the dipped beam. I only want the former on, so it’s possible that I might not need to change the FRM. I’ll pop over to see one of the coding chaps nearby to see what they make of it.
Court_S said:
I’ve got to wait until Sunday for the chap to come an look at ours, but from what I can gather, the condenser can end up with a hole in it (relatively easy and inexpensive to replace). The clutch’s seem prone to stting themselves on the compressor and some report leaks that way shuck is obviously a bigger day out but probably not too labour intensive to change. Then there’s the actual pipes which there appear to be three of snaking around the engine. If these are sitting in debris collecting water they could corrode. The pipes look to be c.£100 each for OE jobbies, but I’m guessing getting at them will be a total pain in the arse.
Cheers. I'm away this week so mine will have to wait too. Reading online, the high pressure pipe is quite a common failure point. I'll take a look that with a UV torch when I'm back and maybe have a go at replacing that if that's the culprit. Would be interested to hear how you get on. tting themselves on the compressor and some report leaks that way shuck is obviously a bigger day out but probably not too labour intensive to change. Then there’s the actual pipes which there appear to be three of snaking around the engine. If these are sitting in debris collecting water they could corrode. The pipes look to be c.£100 each for OE jobbies, but I’m guessing getting at them will be a total pain in the arse.Gad-Westy said:
Cheers. I'm away this week so mine will have to wait too. Reading online, the high pressure pipe is quite a common failure point. I'll take a look that with a UV torch when I'm back and maybe have a go at replacing that if that's the culprit. Would be interested to hear how you get on.
Mine leaked when the pipe to the left of the engine (looking from the front) corroded, because there's a bit of a dirt trap there. That Go Cool fella spliced in a section of used pipe for me and it's been good for nearly 5 years since.What's the general consensus on swapping in rear M3 arms? I know it's a regularly done thing on the front, but doesn't seem as widespread on the rear.
As I'm doing a full refresh, my brain automatically thinks M3 arms would be better - look better (forged ally not pressed steel), have better bushing/bearing etc etc. I've read online they provide no geometry changes, but some of the bushings on the 335i are swapped to spherical bearings on the M3 items.
Other option is to just grab a set of MOOG 335i items (I say MOOG, as they come as a "kit" rather than faffing about ordered multiple items), as at 17 years / 135k, new bushings will be worthwhile anyway!
As I'm doing a full refresh, my brain automatically thinks M3 arms would be better - look better (forged ally not pressed steel), have better bushing/bearing etc etc. I've read online they provide no geometry changes, but some of the bushings on the 335i are swapped to spherical bearings on the M3 items.
Other option is to just grab a set of MOOG 335i items (I say MOOG, as they come as a "kit" rather than faffing about ordered multiple items), as at 17 years / 135k, new bushings will be worthwhile anyway!
christhreadgill said:
What's the general consensus on swapping in rear M3 arms? I know it's a regularly done thing on the front, but doesn't seem as widespread on the rear.
As I'm doing a full refresh, my brain automatically thinks M3 arms would be better - look better (forged ally not pressed steel), have better bushing/bearing etc etc. I've read online they provide no geometry changes, but some of the bushings on the 335i are swapped to spherical bearings on the M3 items.
Other option is to just grab a set of MOOG 335i items (I say MOOG, as they come as a "kit" rather than faffing about ordered multiple items), as at 17 years / 135k, new bushings will be worthwhile anyway!
I did the upper rear ons because they’re a straight bolt in and the M3 TRW jobbies were only a bit more expensive than none M3 ones. Are there any tangible benefits? Probably not.As I'm doing a full refresh, my brain automatically thinks M3 arms would be better - look better (forged ally not pressed steel), have better bushing/bearing etc etc. I've read online they provide no geometry changes, but some of the bushings on the 335i are swapped to spherical bearings on the M3 items.
Other option is to just grab a set of MOOG 335i items (I say MOOG, as they come as a "kit" rather than faffing about ordered multiple items), as at 17 years / 135k, new bushings will be worthwhile anyway!
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