E91 Straight Six Bearding
Discussion
bmwmike said:
That’s really nice; a lovely colour normally to boot. Rare to see a well spec’d petrol touring really. Seems to have had the expensive bits fixed too which is a nice bonus.
Mika_98 said:
Hi all,
Any suggestions on the following error please? EML is intermittent, when triggered, the car still drives fine with no issues. Its a 2006 330i.
2F0D:?2F0D Radiator blind activation (GLF)
I didn't know any E90's had a radiator blind, and Google seems to suggest this isn't a real fault and is a bug or something.Any suggestions on the following error please? EML is intermittent, when triggered, the car still drives fine with no issues. Its a 2006 330i.
2F0D:?2F0D Radiator blind activation (GLF)
I *think* it's an electrically operated manual shutter that shields the radiator from air to help with warm up / drag reduction. But it's only on the newer cars (e.g. my 2010 E71 X6 has it).
bmwmike said:
helix403 said:
bmwmike said:
Wheels are standard ones painted black. The red is certainly striking. I’d prefer it with silver wheels with standard badges and repeaters. I had an n53 engine for 7 years already though, and sold it to dodge a bullet, as much as I think they are a really very good engine in BMW's lineup i'm not sure i'm up for russian roulette n53 style, but does look like its had the big ticket items done for now, except perhaps Nox, ccv, etc, which are also expensive.
helix403 said:
bmwmike said:
Wheels are standard ones painted black. The red is certainly striking. I’d prefer it with silver wheels with standard badges and repeaters. Jakg said:
Mika_98 said:
Hi all,
Any suggestions on the following error please? EML is intermittent, when triggered, the car still drives fine with no issues. Its a 2006 330i.
2F0D:?2F0D Radiator blind activation (GLF)
I didn't know any E90's had a radiator blind, and Google seems to suggest this isn't a real fault and is a bug or something.Any suggestions on the following error please? EML is intermittent, when triggered, the car still drives fine with no issues. Its a 2006 330i.
2F0D:?2F0D Radiator blind activation (GLF)
I *think* it's an electrically operated manual shutter that shields the radiator from air to help with warm up / drag reduction. But it's only on the newer cars (e.g. my 2010 E71 X6 has it).

I knew my 2007 E87 123d had one which always worried me as that didn't have a temperature gauge either - whoever thought that was a good idea?

The engine management light made a reappearance today in my Z4 whilst cruising gently along a B road.
I’ve read the codes and they both relate to the cat; 29F4 and 29F5.
There seems to be very little info online, or at least consistent info. Some seem to say it’s nothing to worry about, others replaced the post cat O2 sensors, other seem to piss around with plugs and coils or even injectors.
The car has done quite a few shortish, gentle trips this week so part of me wonders if it needs a bit of an Italian tune up to clear it out. Or do I start loading the parts cannon and get a pair of post cat O2 sensors ordered?
I have noticed that the exhaust tips are quite sooty given that the car was only washed last night.
Edited to add that the car appears to drive just fine.
I’ve read the codes and they both relate to the cat; 29F4 and 29F5.
There seems to be very little info online, or at least consistent info. Some seem to say it’s nothing to worry about, others replaced the post cat O2 sensors, other seem to piss around with plugs and coils or even injectors.
The car has done quite a few shortish, gentle trips this week so part of me wonders if it needs a bit of an Italian tune up to clear it out. Or do I start loading the parts cannon and get a pair of post cat O2 sensors ordered?
I have noticed that the exhaust tips are quite sooty given that the car was only washed last night.
Edited to add that the car appears to drive just fine.
Edited by Court_S on Tuesday 23 July 20:20
My 2nd E86 had an amber EML and the codes were for both banks post Cat O2 sensors.
My Indy put a dose of Cataclean in it which solved the problem for a while, but when it came back I took it in again and the battery died while he was reading the codes!
A new battery, another dose of Cataclean and the fault never came back during my next 3 years of ownership, so I just put it down to being one of those random electrical issues due to a dying battery.
My Indy put a dose of Cataclean in it which solved the problem for a while, but when it came back I took it in again and the battery died while he was reading the codes!
A new battery, another dose of Cataclean and the fault never came back during my next 3 years of ownership, so I just put it down to being one of those random electrical issues due to a dying battery.
JakeT said:
I’d probably reset it and go for a drive. Also see if you can find specific code setting criteria from a TIS type place. I wouldn’t fire the parts cannon quite yet.
Even when on short journeys, like just going to the station and back for a week in winter mine had never thrown codes.
Cheers Jake. I’ve cleared the codes and will see what I happens tomorrow. Even when on short journeys, like just going to the station and back for a week in winter mine had never thrown codes.
Some guys on forums reckon it can be fuel related but I always run the car on momentum. Hoping it’s just one of those things that does g come back. The pre cat sensors are easy to do on this but the post cat ones don’t look much fun.
To be fair Mr Tidy also has a point with cataclean. I had a fiesta that would throw a P0420 every so often and Cataclean was the only additive that actually worked. So a dose of that isn’t a bad idea.
Lambda sensors are always a lottery. If they take the threads it turns from an ‘okay’ job to a bloody annoying one.
Lambda sensors are always a lottery. If they take the threads it turns from an ‘okay’ job to a bloody annoying one.

MajorMantra said:
Assuming a similar layout to the E91, I'd not be tackling the post-cat sensors without access to a lift – the access is really poor. Pre-cat ones are fairly straightforward.
The layout is similar….just less space. Everything seems to be super cramped under the Z4. Even access to things like the diff fill and drain plugs of the transmission mounts.d_a_n1979 said:
Agree with the above; new gaskets needed
They're not expensive from BMW - part numbers via RealOEM and see if BMW have them on their eBay store; if not, speak to Cotswolds BMW for them
Tail light gasket ordered via Cotswold BMW - should arrive from Germany in 5-7 days.They're not expensive from BMW - part numbers via RealOEM and see if BMW have them on their eBay store; if not, speak to Cotswolds BMW for them
In the meantime, my battery is not holding charge overnight and is flat by the morning. When I jump start and drive, it is fine, and I can start the car as many times as I like during the day, but something is draining the battery overnight. Could anybody help on what I should check before shelling out for a new battery? I have read the IBS can drain the battery, but what do I need to disconnect to check this?
As a further update to my battery woes on my 2005 E90 330i. As posted above, the car runs fine when jump started and I can turn off and re-start car as many times as I want throughout the day. The problems start when leaving overnight.
Battery voltage after leaving overnight = 12 volts
Car would then not start and recorded 11 volts.
I removed the battery from the car and then there was a voltage of 12.2 on the free standing battery.
The battery currently in there is a Yuasa YBX5 80Ah (760A) which is definitely 6 years old (as I have never changed it during my ownership), but could actually be older than that. My independent specialist says this battery is 'too small' for the car.


Real OEM comes up with several options for my car thought I suspect it will be part number 61217604822 (90Ah) - can somebody confirm if this is correct?

As I have iDrive, I also have the IBS sensor fitted to the negative terminal.

The car may have a parasitic drain, but it could also be the battery is on it's last leg and needs replacing. The indicator on the battery shows green despite the low volts - so not sure what is happening.

Should I opt to replace the battery anyway as it is at least 6 years old, and if so where is the best place to buy from?
Battery voltage after leaving overnight = 12 volts
Car would then not start and recorded 11 volts.
I removed the battery from the car and then there was a voltage of 12.2 on the free standing battery.
The battery currently in there is a Yuasa YBX5 80Ah (760A) which is definitely 6 years old (as I have never changed it during my ownership), but could actually be older than that. My independent specialist says this battery is 'too small' for the car.
Real OEM comes up with several options for my car thought I suspect it will be part number 61217604822 (90Ah) - can somebody confirm if this is correct?
As I have iDrive, I also have the IBS sensor fitted to the negative terminal.
The car may have a parasitic drain, but it could also be the battery is on it's last leg and needs replacing. The indicator on the battery shows green despite the low volts - so not sure what is happening.
Should I opt to replace the battery anyway as it is at least 6 years old, and if so where is the best place to buy from?
I have a 2005 330i so I've just been out to look at mine and it is only a 70AH battery. But I'm sure it is right because I had a new one fitted 2 years ago by my BMW Indy who spent 15 years at Sytner!
Maybe the bigger sizes are for diesels as they take a lot more power to crank over, but I can't see it being a problem if you fit one of the larger options.
If you want to get one yourself I'd recommend ordering from Tayna as they include delivery! I got one from them for my Z4M within a couple of days. Funnily enough that is also only 70AH but it has been fine for over 3 years.
Maybe the bigger sizes are for diesels as they take a lot more power to crank over, but I can't see it being a problem if you fit one of the larger options.
If you want to get one yourself I'd recommend ordering from Tayna as they include delivery! I got one from them for my Z4M within a couple of days. Funnily enough that is also only 70AH but it has been fine for over 3 years.
Mr Tidy said:
I have a 2005 330i so I've just been out to look at mine and it is only a 70AH battery. But I'm sure it is right because I had a new one fitted 2 years ago by my BMW Indy who spent 15 years at Sytner!
Maybe the bigger sizes are for diesels as they take a lot more power to crank over, but I can't see it being a problem if you fit one of the larger options.
If you want to get one yourself I'd recommend ordering from Tayna as they include delivery! I got one from them for my Z4M within a couple of days. Funnily enough that is also only 70AH but it has been fine for over 3 years.
Thanks Mr Tidy for checking - really appreciate that.Maybe the bigger sizes are for diesels as they take a lot more power to crank over, but I can't see it being a problem if you fit one of the larger options.
If you want to get one yourself I'd recommend ordering from Tayna as they include delivery! I got one from them for my Z4M within a couple of days. Funnily enough that is also only 70AH but it has been fine for over 3 years.
I have just brought another Yuasa YBX5096 battery with 80Ah and 740A from Tayna. They are based about 40 miles from where I live, so will go and collect in person tomorrow! The same Ah (and battery type) will mean I just need to register it rather than code.
Does anyone know if I can register a battery using my creator 310 OBD2 tool? Edited to add, that I have just updated my Creator 310 to the latest software which now gives me battery registrations functionality and some other additional features!
Edited by AmirGSXR on Thursday 25th July 23:18
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