E91 Straight Six Bearding
Discussion
I've got an MXS5.0 and it's dead fine. It will 'recondition' batteries, and works with AGM and sealed lead acid batteries too. it will also do smaller batteries, like motorbike ones. 
ETA: There's a week and year stamped on the negative battery terminal.
ETA: There's a week and year stamped on the negative battery terminal.
Edited by JakeT on Tuesday 12th January 15:15
JakeT said:
That's good to know, thanks Helix. I've not replaced mine but also not noticed that they've loosened off when removing. I'll look into some new ones though. Is it just the outer ones, or does the one in the middle also need replacing?
I think it’s all of them. Though if you’ve not had a problem with yours I wouldn’t worry too much. I’ve just seen a few used ones come loose after repairs, but maybe they weren’t torqued up correctly.JakeT said:
I'll be honest, mine have come off a few times and I haven't replaced them. It's the same as the the E46 where the bolts holding the chassis brace underneath were supposed to be single use. I also re-used them. 
As have i.. JakeT said:
As also mentioned, I'd do the pair of thermostats. The temps you're seeing isn't enough, my E46 330d did similar temps too and needed thermostats. There's one for the engine and one for the EGR cooler. Replacing them made a difference in fuel economy, and in your case will keep the DPF happy, as these cars won't trigger a DPF regen if the temps aren't right.
Would explain why the dpf was removed and cleaned just before I bought it.. 
JakeT said:
On your recommendations of oils, I'm sure you know but any LL-04 5w30 would be my go to for an M57. For diff oil, a good 75-140 should do the trick. I couldn't comment on gearbox oil though, as mine was done before I bought it.
helix402 said:
The diff oil is Castrol Syntrax, 75w90, the 140 is for LSDs. The brace bolts on the E91 do tend to come loose if not replaced.
Thanks! Ill have a look at getting some syntrax on order, reckon i'll go for quantum ll04 for engine as theres a tps outlet near the partridge dealer, and will look into the gearbox oil.g3org3y said:
Chucked the CTEK on it...illumination only up to 3 (bit odd given wife has been driving car today). We'll see how much charge it retains until tomorrow morning.
Mine always light up half way even when I connect up after a three hour drive (on various different cars, too).ferrisbueller said:
g3org3y said:
Chucked the CTEK on it...illumination only up to 3 (bit odd given wife has been driving car today). We'll see how much charge it retains until tomorrow morning.
Mine always light up half way even when I connect up after a three hour drive (on various different cars, too).We'll look over the fact it's an E93 
Front suspension top mounts are classic for that, as are balljoints on the front suspension that have gone dry, or any steering column joints. Is it all the time? Or only certain conditions?
If you can, have someone steer the car with the bonnet open, and have a listen out for where the noise is coming from. Putting your hand on top of the shock towers can help too. Just don't get your hands caught up in any moving parts.
Front suspension top mounts are classic for that, as are balljoints on the front suspension that have gone dry, or any steering column joints. Is it all the time? Or only certain conditions?
If you can, have someone steer the car with the bonnet open, and have a listen out for where the noise is coming from. Putting your hand on top of the shock towers can help too. Just don't get your hands caught up in any moving parts.
eezeh said:
beambeam1 said:
Let us know how that goes, I have a really odd squeak that I can't find or suppress. As for the gate trim issue, BMW actually redesigned the plastic trim which I found an article for when I was pushing for warranty repair on my old one. What age is the car?
Anyone know the difference between the two? My intention was to shave a bit off the plastic and apply a polyurethane anti chafe tape over the repaired areaIt's unavailable at the moment but fortunately I have the print out from when I argued with BMW about it. I've scanned it in in case it is of any use to you:
Here's how bad it was on my old E91...
There's another aspect to the issue of rust in that area, I've recently found. Those covers appear to also form a drainage route arouund the tailgate frame, intentionally or not I don't know. But the lower clip for the cover, which has a gap behind it which would allow water to drain through, isn't that large and so gets clogged up with grime.
This then builds up and you end up with a massive wet clot of muck sat against the metal frame of the tailgate, which is also being chafed by the cover. I gave mine a good clearing out recently - something I'd advise others checking, especially it's it's only a 5min job.
This then builds up and you end up with a massive wet clot of muck sat against the metal frame of the tailgate, which is also being chafed by the cover. I gave mine a good clearing out recently - something I'd advise others checking, especially it's it's only a 5min job.
This morning, battery flat as a flat thing. 8.6V according to my voltmeter!
Really surprised as I had it on the CTEK last week for a 24hr period and got it up to Level 6.
Current spec is 540CCA and 70Ah.
Makes sense to get something a bit beefier, but if I get something with different specs, does it mean it'll need coding?
2006 model E91 330i. No stop start. (if that makes any difference)
Really surprised as I had it on the CTEK last week for a 24hr period and got it up to Level 6.
Current spec is 540CCA and 70Ah.
Makes sense to get something a bit beefier, but if I get something with different specs, does it mean it'll need coding?
2006 model E91 330i. No stop start. (if that makes any difference)
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