Discussion
shirt said:
good work for 5 weeks. mine is still next to the sofa and has probably stunk the flat out with leaky fuel tap by now.
did you go for bridgestone trail wings? i ordered mine from amazon in the US. got a few parcels waiting for me when i get home in a couple of weeks.
re. the lifan, how does 72cc feel? i am waiting on a supplier to give me the cost for a full rebuild kit for my original engine to go up to 72cc so keen to know if that's a good idea or not.
i want to strip it to the cases and replace all the gaskets, bearings etc. and hoping i can lose the points but still stay 6v. haven't looked at that yet.
I have not had it running with the Lifan engine yet, but hopefully should do in the next week or so, so will let you know did you go for bridgestone trail wings? i ordered mine from amazon in the US. got a few parcels waiting for me when i get home in a couple of weeks.
re. the lifan, how does 72cc feel? i am waiting on a supplier to give me the cost for a full rebuild kit for my original engine to go up to 72cc so keen to know if that's a good idea or not.
i want to strip it to the cases and replace all the gaskets, bearings etc. and hoping i can lose the points but still stay 6v. haven't looked at that yet.

Yes Bridgestone trail wings, I ordered mine from ebay though.
I also recently bought another 2001 Jincheng 50cc, but this one road registered. I brought it into work today and took it for it's first ever MOT which it passed! I bought it with only 6 miles on the clock.
When I get the Baja Monkey running with the Lifan 72cc I will have a good comparison against this one
Edited by AceOfHearts on Wednesday 16th April 16:50
Bob_Defly said:
I would honestly be scared riding something that small amongst busy traffic.
It's not too bad - a beefy exhaust helps, as does a loud horn should you need to make your presence known. And if you have a little bit more power to squirt around traffic it's not at all bad. You do get people that will be blind when pulling out of junctions but no more so than on a 'regular' sized bike. The only time I was scared when I took a wrong turn onto the A34 and had to ride to the next junction on a breezy day. Evo 7 - Update.
The monkey is with the Legend, Nigel getting fettled. The replacement rear shock is on and is looking great...am in two minds whether to cover it with the shock sock or let it be open to the elements. It does look great with the blue wheels! And as it's adjustable it should make a huge difference.

But there was some bad news. The oil leak was a little more serious than initially thought. I thought it was leaking out of the gear lever shaft seal. Which was weaping to be fair. But when flywheel side of the casing was opened up there was some misting behind the flywheel. So needed to be take off and inspected if it was the seal-lucky for us it was the seal and as I had bought whole seal kit it was included.
But there was an issue getting the flywheel off. The specific puller wasn't getting much purchase on the threads as someone had tried to take it off before and gakked some of the threads. Luckily with some thought and perseverance Nigel managed to get it off with minimal damage to the thread on the flywheel. You can see the fresh seal on the gear lever shaft on the pic below...

It was noted the original brake disc was quite glazed and I've always complained about the wooden feel of the brakes on the front. When we did the Brembo caliper install I had put in a set of sintered pads. They were always wooden in feel and only had a decent feel when there was a bit of heat into them. I changed the pads to fresh ones last year but with no great improvement-I ordered standard road pads but kindly the seller had sent me the sintered pads free of charge. Anyway, a new standard disc will be bought and installed after a debate was had regards potentially changing the master cylinder as an upgrade...Remembering that over winter we're fitting a new USD set up and will come with new brakes...so might not go ahead unless Nigel can find something cheap.
Will update soon as I have more.
The monkey is with the Legend, Nigel getting fettled. The replacement rear shock is on and is looking great...am in two minds whether to cover it with the shock sock or let it be open to the elements. It does look great with the blue wheels! And as it's adjustable it should make a huge difference.
But there was some bad news. The oil leak was a little more serious than initially thought. I thought it was leaking out of the gear lever shaft seal. Which was weaping to be fair. But when flywheel side of the casing was opened up there was some misting behind the flywheel. So needed to be take off and inspected if it was the seal-lucky for us it was the seal and as I had bought whole seal kit it was included.
But there was an issue getting the flywheel off. The specific puller wasn't getting much purchase on the threads as someone had tried to take it off before and gakked some of the threads. Luckily with some thought and perseverance Nigel managed to get it off with minimal damage to the thread on the flywheel. You can see the fresh seal on the gear lever shaft on the pic below...
It was noted the original brake disc was quite glazed and I've always complained about the wooden feel of the brakes on the front. When we did the Brembo caliper install I had put in a set of sintered pads. They were always wooden in feel and only had a decent feel when there was a bit of heat into them. I changed the pads to fresh ones last year but with no great improvement-I ordered standard road pads but kindly the seller had sent me the sintered pads free of charge. Anyway, a new standard disc will be bought and installed after a debate was had regards potentially changing the master cylinder as an upgrade...Remembering that over winter we're fitting a new USD set up and will come with new brakes...so might not go ahead unless Nigel can find something cheap.
Will update soon as I have more.

Did some more work on ST175-in-waiting.

I bought the "shorty" K&N version but this still was touching the frame but the hose clamp was very wide,
the slightly narrower clamp held beside might just do the trick.

Cut 4mm off the filter intake, smaller clamp fitted, Bingo, we have clearance Clarence,
the engine might shake a bit and I don´t want this to sound like a Rumba rattle.

Added a "phonus balonus" 3rd mount to the old Cub ignition cover I got from a fellow PHer,
to leave no empty hole in the "Nice" crankcase, screwed on plus 2K metal bond for sticking and modeling.

"Flywheel cover" self-polished, OK if you don´t look too close,
rest of cover will be done with 2K primer and 2K gloss black to match clutch cover on right side.
I bought the "shorty" K&N version but this still was touching the frame but the hose clamp was very wide,
the slightly narrower clamp held beside might just do the trick.
Cut 4mm off the filter intake, smaller clamp fitted, Bingo, we have clearance Clarence,
the engine might shake a bit and I don´t want this to sound like a Rumba rattle.
Added a "phonus balonus" 3rd mount to the old Cub ignition cover I got from a fellow PHer,
to leave no empty hole in the "Nice" crankcase, screwed on plus 2K metal bond for sticking and modeling.
"Flywheel cover" self-polished, OK if you don´t look too close,
rest of cover will be done with 2K primer and 2K gloss black to match clutch cover on right side.
The monkeybike is back! When I got the bike back I deep cleaned it on the weekend.
While doing so I had a supervisor who came out to inspect periodically.
url]
|https://forums-images.pistonheads.com/163705/202505013595743[/url]

During the Cleaning process I mentally noted a bunch of things I want doing for the next Evolution. These are tidying up the electrics, getting the tank re-painted, Cerakote the exhaust and the Brembo caliper bronze or gold and getting new switch gear. But that is for the off season over winter....
After over three hours of cleaning, polishing and inspecting here it is...

I'm super happy with the way it looks now. The blue spring tying in the blue wheels. Which look ace. The new rear shock was a great upgrade. So much more control and no pogoing or bottoming out. The greater control has resulted in the handling being scalpel sharp-it already was but is so much more composed in the bends and under braking. The bike turns in with minimal input and feels epic in the corners!
I'm waiting on some disc bolts to get delivered. The current ones are starting to round off and are as old as the bike. So I doubt they will survive the swap without rounding off... The new disc that will be installed looks pretty good and will be done this weekend if the bolts arrive today or tomorrow.

I'll post up before and after pics to keep the build thread going...
While doing so I had a supervisor who came out to inspect periodically.
url]
During the Cleaning process I mentally noted a bunch of things I want doing for the next Evolution. These are tidying up the electrics, getting the tank re-painted, Cerakote the exhaust and the Brembo caliper bronze or gold and getting new switch gear. But that is for the off season over winter....
After over three hours of cleaning, polishing and inspecting here it is...
I'm super happy with the way it looks now. The blue spring tying in the blue wheels. Which look ace. The new rear shock was a great upgrade. So much more control and no pogoing or bottoming out. The greater control has resulted in the handling being scalpel sharp-it already was but is so much more composed in the bends and under braking. The bike turns in with minimal input and feels epic in the corners!
I'm waiting on some disc bolts to get delivered. The current ones are starting to round off and are as old as the bike. So I doubt they will survive the swap without rounding off... The new disc that will be installed looks pretty good and will be done this weekend if the bolts arrive today or tomorrow.
I'll post up before and after pics to keep the build thread going...
If anyone is interested there are two Z50's in May's Classic Competition raffles.
s

https://theclassiccompetitioncompany.com/competiti...

https://theclassiccompetitioncompany.com/competiti...
s
https://theclassiccompetitioncompany.com/competiti...
https://theclassiccompetitioncompany.com/competiti...
Big Engine needs better chassis so Monkey +10cm has been mounted, will be +6cm in the DAX,
and wil be fit to outside of frame for more stability.
Longer swingarm means massive setback of wheel and, to avoid the "Super Street Bike" look,
the rear mudguard is mounted in a different angle.
To close the gap between frame & mudguard a tin plate had to be manufactured, will be painted.

Long list of to do´s , but the Bonsai Berserker is looking like a 6Volt DAX, almost-ish.

Blue swingarm wrapped in weapons grade gaffa tape for protection against chips during mounting & fitting.
and wil be fit to outside of frame for more stability.
Longer swingarm means massive setback of wheel and, to avoid the "Super Street Bike" look,
the rear mudguard is mounted in a different angle.
To close the gap between frame & mudguard a tin plate had to be manufactured, will be painted.
Long list of to do´s , but the Bonsai Berserker is looking like a 6Volt DAX, almost-ish.
Blue swingarm wrapped in weapons grade gaffa tape for protection against chips during mounting & fitting.
Why is my little custom Dax taking so long to finish ?
When doing custom work sometimes I have to build things, take a look, and find a way to make them better.
Since my exhaust is ending where the right turn signal was, I had to make an extension & riser to the signal holder.
Went from this

to this

Mount is now hidden and not prone to vibration-induced sinking lower and lower,
but took me another evening.

modified the holder to close around the little welded-in m6 thread piece

fits snugly and, once bolted down, has no chance for unwanted change of mounting position.
Better do it right the first.....well, second, time.
When doing custom work sometimes I have to build things, take a look, and find a way to make them better.
Since my exhaust is ending where the right turn signal was, I had to make an extension & riser to the signal holder.
Went from this
to this
Mount is now hidden and not prone to vibration-induced sinking lower and lower,
but took me another evening.
modified the holder to close around the little welded-in m6 thread piece
fits snugly and, once bolted down, has no chance for unwanted change of mounting position.
Better do it right the first.....well, second, time.
If I see SupaCool´s Monkey with the looong swingarm, I am slightly envious about the naked look,
and about the more relaxed way of getting a heavy customized (Mini)Bike on UK roads.
I have -sort of- finished my "long swingarm" installation, hoo-raay !

In order to keep the "stock 6V" look- and have a chance of getting it legalized- I had to :
move mudguard back to match wheel radius
refit "Cat Eye" reflector at 90° angle, mandatory and often checked (Stanley Cat Eyes are discontinued and go for silly prices)
build sheet metal "banana covers" to close the gap between frame and mudguard
work a lot on the brake pedal to get around the outer swingarm bearings and lower the front part
build brake anchor rod from flat 6mm inox
build brake linkage from 6mm round inox
shorten passenger footpeg mounts to clear the rear shock absorbers
For better optics and more comfort, I also fitted CBR-stlye footpegs folding at 45° angle,
and replaced the plastic HONDA clutch cover with a POSH machined one,
incorporating an OHC cam cover with Honda Wing engraving.
MTX kick starter now has rubber and fts snugly between oil temp gauge and header pipe.

Here is the ignition cover doused in 2K primer and 2K glossy black, not perfect but I am pleased with the result.
Heel-and-toe-shift lever for added 6V looks, two springs on sidestand as required by german TUV .
Still some work to do but I am on the final straight, hope that the engine will start after a 10 year hiatus,
and will not leak through hardened ring seals. Then I have to adjust the silencer for german TUV,
have some materials to copy and enlarge the stock MAB unit.
and about the more relaxed way of getting a heavy customized (Mini)Bike on UK roads.
I have -sort of- finished my "long swingarm" installation, hoo-raay !
In order to keep the "stock 6V" look- and have a chance of getting it legalized- I had to :
move mudguard back to match wheel radius
refit "Cat Eye" reflector at 90° angle, mandatory and often checked (Stanley Cat Eyes are discontinued and go for silly prices)
build sheet metal "banana covers" to close the gap between frame and mudguard
work a lot on the brake pedal to get around the outer swingarm bearings and lower the front part
build brake anchor rod from flat 6mm inox
build brake linkage from 6mm round inox
shorten passenger footpeg mounts to clear the rear shock absorbers
For better optics and more comfort, I also fitted CBR-stlye footpegs folding at 45° angle,
and replaced the plastic HONDA clutch cover with a POSH machined one,
incorporating an OHC cam cover with Honda Wing engraving.
MTX kick starter now has rubber and fts snugly between oil temp gauge and header pipe.
Here is the ignition cover doused in 2K primer and 2K glossy black, not perfect but I am pleased with the result.
Heel-and-toe-shift lever for added 6V looks, two springs on sidestand as required by german TUV .
Still some work to do but I am on the final straight, hope that the engine will start after a 10 year hiatus,
and will not leak through hardened ring seals. Then I have to adjust the silencer for german TUV,
have some materials to copy and enlarge the stock MAB unit.
Had the roll-out after 3 years of building, woo-hoo !

I was afraid that the Dax would crumble to dust when seeing daylight, like a vampire, but hey-ho, 6Volt looks are visible,
I did not want to go the full custom hog optically.
Started on 5th kick after 10 years of hibernation, did a few rounds in the yard,
scared the feck out of me, had 1/3 throttle and the thing tried to run away under me, massive grin and scary face.
After 3 minutes the engine quit and has no spark ever since, now I have a whole selection of possibilities,
like stator/CDI/coil has aged /detoriated, or maybe I rewired / soldered not good enough,
or loose connector / ground somewhere. Oh well, have to see who still sells this vintage PVL electronic stuff,
and get the multimeter out , bugger is that a Dax has everything IN the frame so maybe a serious stripping of parts.
When it ran I was fully hooked on the "big block" with 175cc and 20+ hp, so work /spending has to continue.
I was afraid that the Dax would crumble to dust when seeing daylight, like a vampire, but hey-ho, 6Volt looks are visible,
I did not want to go the full custom hog optically.
Started on 5th kick after 10 years of hibernation, did a few rounds in the yard,
scared the feck out of me, had 1/3 throttle and the thing tried to run away under me, massive grin and scary face.
After 3 minutes the engine quit and has no spark ever since, now I have a whole selection of possibilities,
like stator/CDI/coil has aged /detoriated, or maybe I rewired / soldered not good enough,
or loose connector / ground somewhere. Oh well, have to see who still sells this vintage PVL electronic stuff,
and get the multimeter out , bugger is that a Dax has everything IN the frame so maybe a serious stripping of parts.
When it ran I was fully hooked on the "big block" with 175cc and 20+ hp, so work /spending has to continue.
UPDATE!
It's been a while and a couple of things have occurred. Some good. Some had the potential to be very bad.
After deep clean it I used it to commute to work for a couple of days. Bike was great. But when I got home and put it away I noticed a bit of a drip of oil on the exhaust and it's usual spot I park it. Ruh Row..... I noticed the front sprocket cover was weaping/dripping oil. It headed back to Nigel as we had a couple of other smaller jobs-fit new wavy disc etc...
This is what he found. The flywheel oil seal was borked! It was a new seal the engine had during the refresh and it had failed.

Nigel managed to get a decent oil seal ordered and fitted along with the new disc.

Bike was back to me and it went in for MOT. Passed with no Issues. Went for a ride after the MOT. Did some miles and that's when things went south...As I was riding I had noticed a slightly odd noise coming from the drivetrain. As I was on a fast ish road there was no safe spot for me to pull over. Before I found a spot this happened....
|
The rear wheel locked on at 40ish MPH and I came screeching to a halt-right infront of of a 4.5 tonne truck. Much to the annoyance of the driver. I got super lucky. I dragged the bike over to the side of the road and caught my breath. I started to assess the failure....
Bottom of swingarm.

Top of swingarm.

The root cause was the sprocket stud going into the hub that retains the rear cog with nylock nuts came undone. The Studs came out and the nuts located started to gouge the alu swingarm and then one of them came out and bent in place locking the wheel....I called the AA but they were useless. What was 15 min wait turned to an hour, to then be told it was another 90 mins and then a further two hours after all that time I had already waited. I was dehydrated, minimal battery on phone to check for AA updates and I couldn't wheel the bike away. I put out an emergency call for assistance in my friends group. A mate came over on his bike with a snickers and a bottle of water and Nigel finished work and came over to spanner on the bike.

He proceeded to take the back wheel off and took the hub apart. He then bent the stud back that was damaged and secured everything up to put the wheel back on and rotated freely. I could ride home safely with him following behind me - Just in case it came loose again and locked. Luckily the repair worked and I got home safely. What a day. I was shattered sat by the side of a busy ass road for three and a half hours.
I looked for more parts to replace the borked studs in the hubs. During the field repair we noticed that none of the three studs had any thread lock securing them in the hub. So a failure was going to happen at some point. And it was a miracle it didn't happen sooner. As we had not previously taken apart the hub other than changing the sprocket, we were completely unaware. I had taken heed of warnings and upgraded the nuts to nyloc ones to stop them backing out, but not even contemplated the studs doing so.
So the bike went back to Nigel for the repairs on the swing arm and the hub. I wanted to change the swingarm but that would mean some further engineering. But Nigel got the swingarm filled with welding and as it is Alu there weren't any further issues with it and safe to use. And as it was a different shade he even painted the swingarm silver.
Once I got the bike back I spent quite a long time cleaning and polishing it.

I like a clean bike like everyone else does but I am not detailed. But I made the colossal mistake to using some metal polish on a brake lever....And how shiny it got so I polished up all the buff chrome work I had neglected. And then I polished a bolt...which lead to pretty much all chrome bolts being polished...FML and my back was not happy with me sitting and knelling on the floor....
But look at it!

It's back on the road and it's the freshest it's ever been. I am going to take it for a spin this weekend when it cools off....as when sat that close to the road the radiation of heat from the superheated road from this hot spell is unbearable-even when moving.
There are some good updates on your Dax Benni, keep at it and hopefully you are riding it.
It's been a while and a couple of things have occurred. Some good. Some had the potential to be very bad.
After deep clean it I used it to commute to work for a couple of days. Bike was great. But when I got home and put it away I noticed a bit of a drip of oil on the exhaust and it's usual spot I park it. Ruh Row..... I noticed the front sprocket cover was weaping/dripping oil. It headed back to Nigel as we had a couple of other smaller jobs-fit new wavy disc etc...
This is what he found. The flywheel oil seal was borked! It was a new seal the engine had during the refresh and it had failed.
Nigel managed to get a decent oil seal ordered and fitted along with the new disc.
Bike was back to me and it went in for MOT. Passed with no Issues. Went for a ride after the MOT. Did some miles and that's when things went south...As I was riding I had noticed a slightly odd noise coming from the drivetrain. As I was on a fast ish road there was no safe spot for me to pull over. Before I found a spot this happened....
The rear wheel locked on at 40ish MPH and I came screeching to a halt-right infront of of a 4.5 tonne truck. Much to the annoyance of the driver. I got super lucky. I dragged the bike over to the side of the road and caught my breath. I started to assess the failure....
Bottom of swingarm.
Top of swingarm.
The root cause was the sprocket stud going into the hub that retains the rear cog with nylock nuts came undone. The Studs came out and the nuts located started to gouge the alu swingarm and then one of them came out and bent in place locking the wheel....I called the AA but they were useless. What was 15 min wait turned to an hour, to then be told it was another 90 mins and then a further two hours after all that time I had already waited. I was dehydrated, minimal battery on phone to check for AA updates and I couldn't wheel the bike away. I put out an emergency call for assistance in my friends group. A mate came over on his bike with a snickers and a bottle of water and Nigel finished work and came over to spanner on the bike.
He proceeded to take the back wheel off and took the hub apart. He then bent the stud back that was damaged and secured everything up to put the wheel back on and rotated freely. I could ride home safely with him following behind me - Just in case it came loose again and locked. Luckily the repair worked and I got home safely. What a day. I was shattered sat by the side of a busy ass road for three and a half hours.
I looked for more parts to replace the borked studs in the hubs. During the field repair we noticed that none of the three studs had any thread lock securing them in the hub. So a failure was going to happen at some point. And it was a miracle it didn't happen sooner. As we had not previously taken apart the hub other than changing the sprocket, we were completely unaware. I had taken heed of warnings and upgraded the nuts to nyloc ones to stop them backing out, but not even contemplated the studs doing so.
So the bike went back to Nigel for the repairs on the swing arm and the hub. I wanted to change the swingarm but that would mean some further engineering. But Nigel got the swingarm filled with welding and as it is Alu there weren't any further issues with it and safe to use. And as it was a different shade he even painted the swingarm silver.
Once I got the bike back I spent quite a long time cleaning and polishing it.
I like a clean bike like everyone else does but I am not detailed. But I made the colossal mistake to using some metal polish on a brake lever....And how shiny it got so I polished up all the buff chrome work I had neglected. And then I polished a bolt...which lead to pretty much all chrome bolts being polished...FML and my back was not happy with me sitting and knelling on the floor....
But look at it!
It's back on the road and it's the freshest it's ever been. I am going to take it for a spin this weekend when it cools off....as when sat that close to the road the radiation of heat from the superheated road from this hot spell is unbearable-even when moving.
There are some good updates on your Dax Benni, keep at it and hopefully you are riding it.
Edited by supacool1 on Friday 11th July 15:06
Update on my lost spark : My fault, and an expensive one, forgot to attach the ground wire of the CDI and fried it.
Must have "pulled" some ground through the system when I was pottering around in the yard,
but when I wanted to rev-up in neutral it just cut out, must have been too much current through the CDI.
Just ordered a replacement box for 330€, ouch, 340€ would have bought a complete Daytona system with generator & CDI,
but that would mean re-wiring, adding regulator & coil, make wiring adapters etc.
So I bought the box and hope my fault has not been grilling the stator / impulse trigger.
I had tucked away some wires that would feed the rev counter because I have none mounted,
and stupidly packed away the ground wire, not amused.
Did I get this hub defect right that the nylock nuts did not come loose but the studs themselves ?
On my chinese DAX copy I also had 4 studs holding the rear sprocket, knowing chinese quality materials and assemblies
I heavily reinforced the hub, first making 4 steel plates that went into the hub.

Then cut the 1.25 fine thread all the way to the hub,12.9 bolts through to the hub,
secured by nylocks inside holding the sprocket,
and only the bolt heads sticking out because of small clearance between heads and swingarm.

You might call it "belt & braces" , I call it german overkill engineering, I just don´t want those to come loose.
Must have "pulled" some ground through the system when I was pottering around in the yard,
but when I wanted to rev-up in neutral it just cut out, must have been too much current through the CDI.
Just ordered a replacement box for 330€, ouch, 340€ would have bought a complete Daytona system with generator & CDI,
but that would mean re-wiring, adding regulator & coil, make wiring adapters etc.
So I bought the box and hope my fault has not been grilling the stator / impulse trigger.
I had tucked away some wires that would feed the rev counter because I have none mounted,
and stupidly packed away the ground wire, not amused.
Did I get this hub defect right that the nylock nuts did not come loose but the studs themselves ?
On my chinese DAX copy I also had 4 studs holding the rear sprocket, knowing chinese quality materials and assemblies
I heavily reinforced the hub, first making 4 steel plates that went into the hub.
Then cut the 1.25 fine thread all the way to the hub,12.9 bolts through to the hub,
secured by nylocks inside holding the sprocket,
and only the bolt heads sticking out because of small clearance between heads and swingarm.
You might call it "belt & braces" , I call it german overkill engineering, I just don´t want those to come loose.
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