TVR Vixen (late S1-on), 3000M,Taimar, 3000S, safety issue...

TVR Vixen (late S1-on), 3000M,Taimar, 3000S, safety issue...

Author
Discussion

Adrian@

Original Poster:

3,497 posts

220 months

Monday 11th February
quotequote all
This a common error across the range for the DIY rebuilders in their 'quest' to replace anything for new whilst they are doing the job...There is a safety issue regarding the bolts for door hinges on the Vixen and M series cars, that the hinge bolts listed in the parts manual is for a ...Bolt hex head 5/16 UNF x 1 1/2 OR 2" (A. N). IN REALITY the A.N version of the bolt was not ever used (that I know of, I have never seen one in 40 years). BUT a dressed down headed 'special' bolt in place of the AN (layman terms, of the bolt is that it has a slim head) using a single anti-rattle washer. (Note.. that on the top hinge on the Vixen/3000M one special bolt is used, which bolts through to the engine bay, however the Taimar/3000S require two special bolts and that all the versions of the car bottom hinges have two). The reason for these special bolts is that the alloy part of the Ford Anglia hinge locks out on the heads of standard bolt head, (if addtional standard washers are fitted, more so) limiting the ability for the hinge to close freely.
Initially the fibreglass flexes (you might 'think' that the door seals are the limiting factor here), BUT, with door closed eventually this will break the hinge boxes off the car, AND OR fracture the outer shell (the box is attached to the inner side of the wing). A@

Moto

898 posts

191 months

Monday 11th February
quotequote all
Thx Adrian.

I'll check mine at the weekend.

Good to hear from you.

Steve


Astacus

2,569 posts

172 months

Monday 11th February
quotequote all
Adrian, were you looking over my shoulder yesterday? I was fiddling with the passengers door hinge on my S1 trying to align the door properly. I haven’t yet fitted the special bolt, but now I know not to rush in

plasticpig72

1,363 posts

87 months

Tuesday 12th February
quotequote all
Thanks Adrian,
I'll check the Hinges on my 3000m and 3000s
Alan

Moto

898 posts

191 months

Tuesday 12th February
quotequote all
Thx Adrian.

I'll check mine at the weekend.

Good to hear from you.

Steve


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griffer500

51 posts

60 months

Tuesday 12th February
quotequote all
Has someone a picture of the correct bolt for me?

Adrian@

Original Poster:

3,497 posts

220 months

Tuesday 12th February
quotequote all
Jan,
As you have your cars in bits...
The hinge box back spacing/packing is all bespoke to each car (packed to get the outer lip hinge level with the upright post surface) with a square or two of pieces of loose FG the size of the back of the hinge (rather than the box) ...all done bespoke on production.
On your 3000M you are looking INSIDE the top hinge (one bolt within the hinge box (01015) and inside the lower hinge x 2 (01007) on the parts listing.
A@

Edited by Adrian@ on Tuesday 12th February 11:00

phillpot

14,644 posts

121 months

Tuesday 12th February
quotequote all
If ever there was a case of "a pictures worth a thousand words"!

Adrian@ said:
using a single anti-rattle washer.
Is this what you mean by "anti rattle washer" ?



Adrian@ said:
the Taimar/3000S require two special bolts and that all the versions of the car bottom hinges have two
This is a Taimar bottom hinge, is it these bolts circled that are the issue?
That hinge is painted, there appear to be no contact marks? looks like i've got away with it, my doors aren't going to fall off scratchchin


Adrian@

Original Poster:

3,497 posts

220 months

Tuesday 12th February
quotequote all
Thanks Mike, Here is the correct washer in that ...As I say above these were shimmed and spaced on production BUT the angle of attack from the door shell also is part of the issue this allows the hinge to rotate in further and limit out on the heads.

A@
We are also at a point where these are second and perhaps third DIY hinge rebuilds, in your picture is the OE FORD updated strengthener (welded into the hinge itself...that is missing on early Vixen's so there was not a problem in the OE TVR design) which brought the bolt heads forward.
A@

Edited by Adrian@ on Tuesday 12th February 12:29

phillpot

14,644 posts

121 months

Tuesday 12th February
quotequote all


Just put a ball of BluTak on bolt head and shut the door, squashed down to about 2mm smile

Adrian@

Original Poster:

3,497 posts

220 months

Tuesday 12th February
quotequote all
Mike ...look at my last post, also relevant here is the added strengthener that would not of been in the OE design thought in '69, the alloy hinge is shimmed, with wear, the alloy locks out this too and jumps the edge (prior to locking out after time). It is worthy a little more thought than bluetack ...I have been correcting the issue for a long time and the cost incurred recently to rectify a near perfect paint finish, stood the guy in at 1800 UKP. A@