CATS /SuperSport suspension on XKR worthwhile?
Discussion
CATs is fitted as standard to all XKRs and all XJRs after 1997 I believe. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm mistaken. I'm not sure what "supersport suspension" is but I'm by no means an expert.
If you want ride comfort and reduced bodyroll it's a must. I personally think it's a great piece of kit and it responds well when you push the car hard but the repairs are rather substantial if the system fails. Fortunately such failures appear to be quite rare.
If you want ride comfort and reduced bodyroll it's a must. I personally think it's a great piece of kit and it responds well when you push the car hard but the repairs are rather substantial if the system fails. Fortunately such failures appear to be quite rare.
Only found on XKR coupes, Jaguar offered their 'Handling pack'. This lowered the suspension 10mm, revised the CATS/damper settings and added a faster steering rack. Jaguar can always make their cars handle well, this just adds to that perfection. It doesn't compromise the ride, as I too prefer the firmer set up, but is not not anywhere like the crashy ride found with a BMW/Audi/Porsche.
It will be quite hard to find a car which advertises this fact, a chassis search through a Jag dealer can find this out. But my 2 previous XKR's were limited edition cars and these tend to be the ones which have the pack fitted as standard.
Look for the XKR100, XKR400, XKR Carbonfibre or XKR-S coupes.
G
It will be quite hard to find a car which advertises this fact, a chassis search through a Jag dealer can find this out. But my 2 previous XKR's were limited edition cars and these tend to be the ones which have the pack fitted as standard.
Look for the XKR100, XKR400, XKR Carbonfibre or XKR-S coupes.
G
Thanks - I found a 1997 car which mentioned supersport suspension - and looks a lot lower in the photos. However, now after a newer car to avoid the various engine issues - but sadly my budget won't stretch to the limited editions you mention. Just have to hope I get lucky, but at least it will have CATS from what you both say.
I really wouldn't be put off the earlier engines too much mate. I assume you're referring to the Nikasil/Tensioner problems that lead to engine failure. There is also a water pump impellor issue I believe but this isn't terminal.
I run a nikasil engine and I can honestly say it's a beauty. Doesn't use oil, warms up a treat and it'll out last the newer steel lined engines (in theory!).
Nikasil failures are not common these days (those that were going to fail have already failed!) and a large proportion of those that have occured are often misdiagnosed. The problem is everyone considers themselves an expert and it's amazing how many people are frightened of the engines. I used this to my advantage and bought a nikasil lined engine had it compression tested to make sure and it runs sweet as.
Tensioners are an expensive change to pay someone but, again, most have been done by now. If you're mechanically minded you can buy the kit yourself and safe a bundle. Or use it as a bargaining point.
Anyway my point is if you do your research and give the car a good look over the early cars are not only a bargain, the nikasil is actually superior to it's replacement (it is still used in some race engines for this very reason).
HTH,
G
I run a nikasil engine and I can honestly say it's a beauty. Doesn't use oil, warms up a treat and it'll out last the newer steel lined engines (in theory!).
Nikasil failures are not common these days (those that were going to fail have already failed!) and a large proportion of those that have occured are often misdiagnosed. The problem is everyone considers themselves an expert and it's amazing how many people are frightened of the engines. I used this to my advantage and bought a nikasil lined engine had it compression tested to make sure and it runs sweet as.
Tensioners are an expensive change to pay someone but, again, most have been done by now. If you're mechanically minded you can buy the kit yourself and safe a bundle. Or use it as a bargaining point.
Anyway my point is if you do your research and give the car a good look over the early cars are not only a bargain, the nikasil is actually superior to it's replacement (it is still used in some race engines for this very reason).
HTH,
G
Edited by G on Saturday 15th November 21:05
When peeps mention the 'supersport' suspension, tends to be an aftermarket feature using shorter springs. A bit of chopping is required, hence I never was interested in cars with this feature incase the spring used was just cut and not a proper shorter spring from the likes of Arden of Germany.
If you are interested in a Nikasill car, get it checked with a blowby check, if it passes it will be fine now forever. The timing chain tensioners will definitely require doing if not done already.
If you are interested in a Nikasill car, get it checked with a blowby check, if it passes it will be fine now forever. The timing chain tensioners will definitely require doing if not done already.
notax said:
Thanks - I found a 1997 car which mentioned supersport suspension - and looks a lot lower in the photos. However, now after a newer car to avoid the various engine issues - but sadly my budget won't stretch to the limited editions you mention. Just have to hope I get lucky, but at least it will have CATS from what you both say.
The easiest way to check for CATS (if you have access to the car) is the electrical connection on the top of each damper.This doen't guarantee that the system is functional though!
Bit of a thread resurrection here - my 2006 XK has CATS, as evidenced by the wires on the suspension tops.
How can I (a) tell if it's working* (b) can it be reprogrammed for a softer ride?
How can I (a) tell if it's working* (b) can it be reprogrammed for a softer ride?
- When saw the car at the dealer the CATS warning light was on; now it's off. How do I know they fixed it? Ride is about the same as an XF, ie not great.
Simpo Two said:
Bit of a thread resurrection here - my 2006 XK has CATS, as evidenced by the wires on the suspension tops.
How can I (a) tell if it's working* (b) can it be reprogrammed for a softer ride?
A - The CATS system is constantly monitored and only displays a fault on the dash when the system's currently detecting something 'wrong'. If your light is out - it's working. If anything's been disconnected, it'll show a warning, unless someone's really been to town on it (and I don't even think that's do-able!).How can I (a) tell if it's working* (b) can it be reprogrammed for a softer ride?
- When saw the car at the dealer the CATS warning light was on; now it's off. How do I know they fixed it? Ride is about the same as an XF, ie not great.
B - Replace it with a fully adjustable coilover system and turn the adjusters to softer damping (don't ask how much though!!). Don't think you can adjust the stock setup - although if you find a way I'm all ears...
PS - do you mean the ride's too firm?
The adaptive damping system is powered through a fuse, number F14, located in the fuse box in the front passenger footwell just forward of the door. It should be a blue 15A fuse. There's a half-reasonable chance that had just blown and the dealer replaced it.
Try pulling the fuse, then start the car and observe any warnings. Go for a drive and see if the car feels any different - with the fuse removed and/or the module otherwise bypassed it defaults the dampers to the firm setting.
The idea is that the system runs in the softer setting for the most part but should switch to the firm setting when the car detects (via accelerometers) that it's being driven hard. In truth it's a fairly subtle difference really, it's not a night-and-day change between the settings. Ride quality is subjective, personally I find it firm but refined, nicely balanced between sporty and comfortable.
Try pulling the fuse, then start the car and observe any warnings. Go for a drive and see if the car feels any different - with the fuse removed and/or the module otherwise bypassed it defaults the dampers to the firm setting.
The idea is that the system runs in the softer setting for the most part but should switch to the firm setting when the car detects (via accelerometers) that it's being driven hard. In truth it's a fairly subtle difference really, it's not a night-and-day change between the settings. Ride quality is subjective, personally I find it firm but refined, nicely balanced between sporty and comfortable.
Mike_Mac said:
A - The CATS system is constantly monitored and only displays a fault on the dash when the system's currently detecting something 'wrong'. If your light is out - it's working. If anything's been disconnected, it'll show a warning, unless someone's really been to town on it (and I don't even think that's do-able!).
B - Replace it with a fully adjustable coilover system and turn the adjusters to softer damping (don't ask how much though!!). Don't think you can adjust the stock setup - although if you find a way I'm all ears...
PS - do you mean the ride's too firm?
Great answer, many thanks. I might try 8bit's test tomorrow.B - Replace it with a fully adjustable coilover system and turn the adjusters to softer damping (don't ask how much though!!). Don't think you can adjust the stock setup - although if you find a way I'm all ears...
PS - do you mean the ride's too firm?
It's not worth spending £Ks on a new system; if this one can't be improved I'll either live with it or go up a tyre size (it has 35 rear, 40 front but I see you can also have 40 rear 45 front.
The ride is firmer than I'd like, but that's maybe how it is.
When i was talking to the dealer about the difference between CATs and non-CATs cars he said CATs cars had firmer suspension - which he said was to reduce scuttle shake. Now I'm not a test driver but I'd have thought that the harder the ride the worse the shake!
On the 'sporty' front, apart from moving from a standstill the power doesn't come in with much clout - even kickdown seems pretty gentle - but maybe I'm used to turbo-diesels and TVRs... not a big deal as I didn't get it to race. Maybe I need to stamp more on the loud pedal...
Simpo Two said:
Great answer, many thanks. I might try 8bit's test tomorrow.
It's not worth spending £Ks on a new system; if this one can't be improved I'll either live with it or go up a tyre size (it has 35 rear, 40 front but I see you can also have 40 rear 45 front.
I guess you have 19" wheels? 20" are 35 front and 30 rear as standard, if yours are 20" then chances are someone's already done that.It's not worth spending £Ks on a new system; if this one can't be improved I'll either live with it or go up a tyre size (it has 35 rear, 40 front but I see you can also have 40 rear 45 front.
Simpo Two said:
The ride is firmer than I'd like, but that's maybe how it is.
Could be, although I think you're the first person say they find the ride on the X150 overly firm. The later 5.0 cars have firmer suspension than the 4.2s but it's still refined and compliant.Simpo Two said:
When i was talking to the dealer about the difference between CATs and non-CATs cars he said CATs cars had firmer suspension - which he said was to reduce scuttle shake. Now I'm not a test driver but I'd have thought that the harder the ride the worse the shake!
You'll find it almost impossible to get an X150 without it. A couple of the very early press fleet cars didn't have it but I looked at a good number of cars when I was in the market and didn't see a single one without it.Simpo Two said:
On the 'sporty' front, apart from moving from a standstill the power doesn't come in with much clout - even kickdown seems pretty gentle - but maybe I'm used to turbo-diesels and TVRs... not a big deal as I didn't get it to race. Maybe I need to stamp more on the loud pedal...
The transmission adapts to how the car is driven; if you take it easy it'll default to soft and smooth but if you jump on the pedal it'll respond in kind. That being said, if you wanted a lot of clout then you probably wanted an XKR...Simpo Two said:
On the 'sporty' front, apart from moving from a standstill the power doesn't come in with much clout - even kickdown seems pretty gentle - but maybe I'm used to turbo-diesels and TVRs... not a big deal as I didn't get it to race. Maybe I need to stamp more on the loud pedal...
Use the paddles - means there isn't the pregnant pause while the gearbox decides whether or not you're serious and then gives you some power a half-second after you stamp the pedal.8bit said:
I guess you have 19" wheels? 20" are 35 front and 30 rear as standard, if yours are 20" then chances are someone's already done that.
Yes, 19s. The manual says they can have either profile tyre depending on the make of tyre (which seems odd). I'd happily fit taller ones but these have lots of tread so it would be throwing money away.At some stage after taking the car in the dealer replaced the rear Dunlop tyres with budget 'Radar' ones and used the lower profile - but that matches the fronts. However I was surprised that the speedo over-read significantly - 72 on cruise was 79 on the speedo - suggesting to me the car had taller rubber before. After a few days both readouts were identical - I thought 'Ooh, clever car!' - then they were different again... I guess it's still settling in. The car only did 600 miles in the last year.
One other thing if I may - whenever the car is unlocked the screen says 'Jaguar' and there's a faint humming from behind the dash like a small motor or fan. This is with the ignition off. Is that normal?
(apols to Notax for hijack)
Mike_Mac said:
Use the paddles - means there isn't the pregnant pause while the gearbox decides whether or not you're serious and then gives you some power a half-second after you stamp the pedal.
Indeed, or use S mode when making progress.To expand upon iain123's reply about the aspirator fan, you may get some reduction in noise by cleaning the fan. The dash trim around the upper side of the steering column has to come off (it just clips in, use something flat and wide to prise it off, working your way round) and you should see the ducting for the aspirator fan behind where the grille for it is, point the nozzle of a vacuum cleaner onto it and it should pull out whatever dust and fluff is in there. Might just save you 40 quid.
8bit said:
To expand upon iain123's reply about the aspirator fan, you may get some reduction in noise by cleaning the fan. The dash trim around the upper side of the steering column has to come off (it just clips in, use something flat and wide to prise it off, working your way round) and you should see the ducting for the aspirator fan behind where the grille for it is, point the nozzle of a vacuum cleaner onto it and it should pull out whatever dust and fluff is in there. Might just save you 40 quid.
It's not the noise that bothers me so much as the fact it's using battery power. I should be able to leave a car unlocked wihtout having to worry about the battery going flat. Why does it need to be doing anything?I'll start a new thread for the next bit
Simpo Two said:
It's not the noise that bothers me so much as the fact it's using battery power. I should be able to leave a car unlocked wihtout having to worry about the battery going flat. Why does it need to be doing anything?
I'll start a new thread for the next bit
When you unlock the car it goes into "convenience mode", so some stuff gets powered up like the modules and controls for adjusting the seats, steering column and mirrors, the aspirator fan starts (it has to do with climate control etc.) and the infotainment system goes from fully off into a standby mode. This is so that certain things can be done (like adjusting seats) without having to power on the ignition or start the engine, and so that other things start quicker when you do (like the stereo and navigation).I'll start a new thread for the next bit
When you lock the car, all that stuff shuts down again. If you leave the car unlocked for a while (30 mins I think), say in your garage or something, then it shuts it all down. This is all by design, I think the owner's handbook talks about this. It doesn't sound like there's anything to worry about there.
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