1995 Griffith 500 restoration
Discussion
GAARD said:
looking good Rob,
I went very uniform with the Griffith Resto-Mod and the same leather throughout albeit changed the seats to MX5, although did lose the carpet in the doors for leather with detailed stitching. However for in the Taimar-S Resto-Mod looking at carbon fibre leather for top of dash and seat panels, non standard Taimar interior as using T car parts/Dash. The Carbon leather gives a different look/texture.
Andy
Sounds good, be careful with shiny leather on the dash top. You don’t want it any reflection in the windscreen.I went very uniform with the Griffith Resto-Mod and the same leather throughout albeit changed the seats to MX5, although did lose the carpet in the doors for leather with detailed stitching. However for in the Taimar-S Resto-Mod looking at carbon fibre leather for top of dash and seat panels, non standard Taimar interior as using T car parts/Dash. The Carbon leather gives a different look/texture.
Andy
The door carpet on the Griff is a bit simple. I was actually thinking of a split curved design from the speaker. So a tuck and roll top with a plain bottom half. Then use perforated leather on the arm rest part of the surround. All ideas at the moment
Not exactly top of the list of essentials but I managed to find a new old stereo headunit for the trev. I’ve been looking for a Pioneer deh-80prs but no luck as it’s a discontinued unit with second hand either tatty or fetching more than when new. The unit when I bought my trev in 2004 was a wood look pioneer with the dolphin display but that has packed up with nothing on the display working.
Then stumbled on a nice old alpine cdm-7892r unit with its green illumination, motorised front, 3 sets of amplifier outputs and time alignment. Not too modern looking on a wooden dash. Also now the Speedo dial and gauges can be green lit to match.
Then stumbled on a nice old alpine cdm-7892r unit with its green illumination, motorised front, 3 sets of amplifier outputs and time alignment. Not too modern looking on a wooden dash. Also now the Speedo dial and gauges can be green lit to match.
Alarm now returned. This weekend I’ll power up the car and see what happens. Also ordered the new leather and boot carpet and door seals. I haven’t ordered new interior carpet as yet as I’m changing a few things behind the seats so won’t need as much but not sure the correct size as yet. Carpet is £60 a metre so don’t want too much waste.
I have noticed the doors have uneven gaps with the driver side not even flush with the rear quarter and sill of the body. So yet something else to correct. Still waiting for delivery of the wing mirrors although the driver side mirror won’t fit as the brass insert has been ripped out and carefully covered with a carefully cut round piece of masking, then painted. So that needs repairing with a freshly painted door. Dogs
te is the best way to describe that!
I have noticed the doors have uneven gaps with the driver side not even flush with the rear quarter and sill of the body. So yet something else to correct. Still waiting for delivery of the wing mirrors although the driver side mirror won’t fit as the brass insert has been ripped out and carefully covered with a carefully cut round piece of masking, then painted. So that needs repairing with a freshly painted door. Dogs
te is the best way to describe that! So today I thought can the wiring a bit of power via a battery charger first in case of short circuits.
Low and behold there is an issue with buzzing central locking relay and lock solenoids buzzing. So disconnected the central locking relay. Buzzing stopped.
Plugged alarm main unit back in. Indicators flash on and off when activated and turned off.
Picture below shows new front clear indicators without amber bulbs fitted.
Yet more jobs to correct
Low and behold there is an issue with buzzing central locking relay and lock solenoids buzzing. So disconnected the central locking relay. Buzzing stopped.
Plugged alarm main unit back in. Indicators flash on and off when activated and turned off.
Picture below shows new front clear indicators without amber bulbs fitted.
Yet more jobs to correct
Above picture shows the hole the drivers door mirror is supposed to fit but no brass threaded insert. But I do have that insert in a bag of parts removed from the car. I suppose that’s one positive?!
That hole was neatly covered before the door was painted. Stuff like this is below the scale of shoddy workmanship.
jeremyc said:
Less of the naming and shaming please, or the excellent thread will have to be closed. 
My words are all in context. For the reader it gives an idea of issues that are found whilst I progress through this restoration rather than skirt round them. Obviously if it’s factory faults I will point them out, if it’s mods I’ve attempted to do and have failed I will point them out also. Again no point pretending all is good if I make a complete balls up. I believe It’s the details that make a good rebuild. It’s what owners and perhaps new owners which are reading this will choose to either take on a project or not and where if expert help is needed or not.
I just wish to share my experience, be it positive or negative.
If you have specific issues just private message and we can go from there
Cheers
Rob
Interior materials are being delivered tomorrow.
I went with the saddle tan hide. 2 hides ordered, one has been perforated. New door seals, hoop seal and boot seal as originals have seen better days. Note to carefully remove tvr made end pieces from seals. I’ll show these when I remove and fit the new seals. I do have 2 seals missing from the bottom of the doors. They were there before strip down. They stop water rising up between the door and sill of the body. The dash is also waiting to be picked up. Another 6hr drive not including traffic. I’ve asked for a length of matching dash alcantara so I can use it within the doorcards and centre console.
The doorcards I’ve hopefully got a really good design. It’s a split design. I’m thinking of a double pipe between the leather and alcantara, swapping the colours so perforated tuck and roll leather to alcantara pipe, then leather pipe to alcantara lower trim curved upwards from the speaker.
Horizontal tuck and roll to continue behind where the rear vents are. Seats in leather plain and perforated centre panels. I’ll put map pockets on the back of the seats. I’ll use vinyl for the seat backs and map pockets and as a pipe over the seat backs due to the seat belts rubbing there. The vinyl will create a more slippery surface for the seat beat to rub against unlike the leather. Easier to wipe any dirty marks from the vinyl. Headrests I’m thinking keep plain or perhaps a tuck and roll front? Not sure yet. I’ll minds eye both designs once the seats are wearing the new covers.
As I’m doing my own interior the speakers can also be given a revamp. It’s a simple but quality set up. Door speakers will be two way components. Tweeter fitted where ashtray currently resides. Original door position for a woofer. Then a pair of slim mount 8” subwoofers behind each seat under the centre console trim fitted to there own enclosures. I’ll run the speakers via an active crossover so an amplifier per pair of speakers.
The amplifier I have is a 6 channel lump so perfect for this using a single power and earth cable. Speaker mounts can then be trimmed accordingly in the matching new trim so giving a nice custom but factory look. The alpine unit I bought recently will finish off the retro 90’s look on the newly veneered dash. Oh and green back light on the dash dials to match the alpine stereo green illumination.
The boot I’ll use black lining carpet. This stuff has 4 way stretch and easily fits over compound curves which cuts down the amount of pieces to cut unlike the tvr originals. The panel under the boot lid I’ll use the interior saddle tan colour vinyl with an interior matching tuck and roll design. I’ll also make new cover bags for the targa hood, tool kit and spare wheel cover. They won’t take long.
Might also change the wheels. Any good offer will buy them. I could do with a chunk of cash lol
I went with the saddle tan hide. 2 hides ordered, one has been perforated. New door seals, hoop seal and boot seal as originals have seen better days. Note to carefully remove tvr made end pieces from seals. I’ll show these when I remove and fit the new seals. I do have 2 seals missing from the bottom of the doors. They were there before strip down. They stop water rising up between the door and sill of the body. The dash is also waiting to be picked up. Another 6hr drive not including traffic. I’ve asked for a length of matching dash alcantara so I can use it within the doorcards and centre console.
The doorcards I’ve hopefully got a really good design. It’s a split design. I’m thinking of a double pipe between the leather and alcantara, swapping the colours so perforated tuck and roll leather to alcantara pipe, then leather pipe to alcantara lower trim curved upwards from the speaker.
Horizontal tuck and roll to continue behind where the rear vents are. Seats in leather plain and perforated centre panels. I’ll put map pockets on the back of the seats. I’ll use vinyl for the seat backs and map pockets and as a pipe over the seat backs due to the seat belts rubbing there. The vinyl will create a more slippery surface for the seat beat to rub against unlike the leather. Easier to wipe any dirty marks from the vinyl. Headrests I’m thinking keep plain or perhaps a tuck and roll front? Not sure yet. I’ll minds eye both designs once the seats are wearing the new covers.
As I’m doing my own interior the speakers can also be given a revamp. It’s a simple but quality set up. Door speakers will be two way components. Tweeter fitted where ashtray currently resides. Original door position for a woofer. Then a pair of slim mount 8” subwoofers behind each seat under the centre console trim fitted to there own enclosures. I’ll run the speakers via an active crossover so an amplifier per pair of speakers.
The amplifier I have is a 6 channel lump so perfect for this using a single power and earth cable. Speaker mounts can then be trimmed accordingly in the matching new trim so giving a nice custom but factory look. The alpine unit I bought recently will finish off the retro 90’s look on the newly veneered dash. Oh and green back light on the dash dials to match the alpine stereo green illumination.
The boot I’ll use black lining carpet. This stuff has 4 way stretch and easily fits over compound curves which cuts down the amount of pieces to cut unlike the tvr originals. The panel under the boot lid I’ll use the interior saddle tan colour vinyl with an interior matching tuck and roll design. I’ll also make new cover bags for the targa hood, tool kit and spare wheel cover. They won’t take long.
Might also change the wheels. Any good offer will buy them. I could do with a chunk of cash lol
RobXjcoupe said:
jeremyc said:
Less of the naming and shaming please, or the excellent thread will have to be closed.
My words are all in context. For the reader it gives an idea of issues that are found whilst I progress through this restoration rather than skirt round them. Obviously if it’s factory faults I will point them out, if it’s mods I’ve attempted to do and have failed I will point them out also. Again no point pretending all is good if I make a complete balls up. I believe It’s the details that make a good rebuild. It’s what owners and perhaps new owners which are reading this will choose to either take on a project or not and where if expert help is needed or not.
I just wish to share my experience, be it positive or negative.
If you have specific issues just private message and we can go from there
Cheers
Rob
macdeb said:
^^^^ I'm with Rob on this. There have been far too may instances of so called reputable companies that turn out shoddy work and get away with it, but Rob hasn't named anyone I can see.
That's because all of the posts naming the company have been edited (or deleted) to remove identification.Naming and shaming is simply against the rules of the forum - it's the same for everyone. It's all explained in the thread here.
In my ignorance I thought that this Forum included assisting owners maintain their cars with unbiased information so pointing out problems with suppliers and TVR specialists must help in this regard. If one cannot mention poor service it is no wonder that many have now migrated to Facebook. Perhaps PH has now had its day!
Good men that do nothing let bad things happen……
I shall plod on. Basically I’ve worked on the car and a “specialist “.
I won’t need to explain anymore.
On another thread I’m going through random wire issues. I didn’t do the dismantling, I have been left with a dodo currently that doesn’t work. When I took the Jag xjc apart I took plenty of photos and labelled items. I wrongly assumed a specialist would do the same for my TVR.
Yesterday checking wiring and chasing them I could smell fuel, noticed it coming from the rear speaker holes. So had a look in the boot checking the fuel cap and noticed the top of the roll over vent had sheared off, hence the fuel smell. Noticed the pipe had new jubilee clips and a new pipe.
New roll over valve ordered and I’ll make a better securing bracket. It gets hidden behind trim but it’s always nice knowing something is properly done. Pictures below show damaged roll over valve.
I shall plod on. Basically I’ve worked on the car and a “specialist “.
I won’t need to explain anymore.
On another thread I’m going through random wire issues. I didn’t do the dismantling, I have been left with a dodo currently that doesn’t work. When I took the Jag xjc apart I took plenty of photos and labelled items. I wrongly assumed a specialist would do the same for my TVR.
Yesterday checking wiring and chasing them I could smell fuel, noticed it coming from the rear speaker holes. So had a look in the boot checking the fuel cap and noticed the top of the roll over vent had sheared off, hence the fuel smell. Noticed the pipe had new jubilee clips and a new pipe.
New roll over valve ordered and I’ll make a better securing bracket. It gets hidden behind trim but it’s always nice knowing something is properly done. Pictures below show damaged roll over valve.
jeremyc said:
macdeb said:
^^^^ I'm with Rob on this. There have been far too may instances of so called reputable companies that turn out shoddy work and get away with it, but Rob hasn't named anyone I can see.
That's because all of the posts naming the company have been edited (or deleted) to remove identification.Naming and shaming is simply against the rules of the forum - it's the same for everyone. It's all explained in the thread here.
jl34 said:
Well that a rule too far really. Thanks to that rule , many other people may get shoddy work done. Brilliant!
I've read several threads where a few hints are enough for anybody really interested and aware of the network to work it out. A less obvious 'rhyme' can also be enough. There aren't that many specialists, and you can always send an email direct to the OP for clarity.
sixor8 said:
jl34 said:
Well that a rule too far really. Thanks to that rule , many other people may get shoddy work done. Brilliant!
I've read several threads where a few hints are enough for anybody really interested and aware of the network to work it out. A less obvious 'rhyme' can also be enough. There aren't that many specialists, and you can always send an email direct to the OP for clarity.So I’ve been going through my wiring the past few days, with the help of tvr owners I’ve managed to fire up the ole girl.
Currently there are no cats fitted although I do have a pair to bolt on once it’s nearer mot time.
Blimey I didn’t realise how angry she sounds!
I don’t have any cold start with the tune yet n the engine so it needs a bit of easy blipping on the throttle to stop her stalling. Once she settled it was idling rather fast for a cold engine so I turned her off to check the throttle cable position first………but the bonnet pull wasn’t there? Then I found it in the bag of bits that were removed during the strip down I didn’t do.
So now I need to Jack the front so I can slide under the car and somehow pull the actual latch……it’s just one thing after another s as t the moment.
I got her fired up though with the alarm now working correctly.
Currently there are no cats fitted although I do have a pair to bolt on once it’s nearer mot time.
Blimey I didn’t realise how angry she sounds!
I don’t have any cold start with the tune yet n the engine so it needs a bit of easy blipping on the throttle to stop her stalling. Once she settled it was idling rather fast for a cold engine so I turned her off to check the throttle cable position first………but the bonnet pull wasn’t there? Then I found it in the bag of bits that were removed during the strip down I didn’t do.
So now I need to Jack the front so I can slide under the car and somehow pull the actual latch……it’s just one thing after another s as t the moment.
I got her fired up though with the alarm now working correctly.
Its looking good Rob. Sorry to hear about the issues. It will be worth it in the end.
That no name and shame rule has been actively enforced all the time that I have been on pistonheads. I think it stems from Petrol Ted not wanting to get taken to court if someone posted about a company and they got all upset.
Personally, I think being allowed to highlight the rogues is not a bad thing, but I don't make the rules.
I will PM you shortly.
That no name and shame rule has been actively enforced all the time that I have been on pistonheads. I think it stems from Petrol Ted not wanting to get taken to court if someone posted about a company and they got all upset.
Personally, I think being allowed to highlight the rogues is not a bad thing, but I don't make the rules.
I will PM you shortly.
Just for the record I have no idea which specialist has worked on Rob's car. The story I am about to tell is an example of why naming and shaming may be in the public interest, and I must stress is nothing to do with Rob or wherever his car was at.
A good friend of mine has just got his Griff back from a well known specialist. It was there for several jobs including new Outriggers. He had a number of issues with them, including them telling him his chassis was so corroded that it could not be repaired and needed replacing. He had a look at it on a ramp with them as he knows the car well. The only rust was on the outriggers which they were changing anyway. No rust whatsoever anywhere else on the chassis. Clearly a try on to see if he would buy a chassis from them. Fortunately my friend knows what he is looking at so nothing was lost other than pride and face at the specialist concerned. However, this was a blatant try on from a well known specialist. This sort of thing should be on the forum to make people aware.
On the other hand I can see that if a lot of people slagged off the traders on here, they would not take the time to help people, which would be a real shame.
Just my 2p's worth.
A good friend of mine has just got his Griff back from a well known specialist. It was there for several jobs including new Outriggers. He had a number of issues with them, including them telling him his chassis was so corroded that it could not be repaired and needed replacing. He had a look at it on a ramp with them as he knows the car well. The only rust was on the outriggers which they were changing anyway. No rust whatsoever anywhere else on the chassis. Clearly a try on to see if he would buy a chassis from them. Fortunately my friend knows what he is looking at so nothing was lost other than pride and face at the specialist concerned. However, this was a blatant try on from a well known specialist. This sort of thing should be on the forum to make people aware.
On the other hand I can see that if a lot of people slagged off the traders on here, they would not take the time to help people, which would be a real shame.
Just my 2p's worth.
Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff