Reverse switch for Tamora, where is it?
Discussion
Hi,
Yes, I replaced mine recently
You may find out you don't have brake lights either. You have to remove the centre tunnel, after taking the gear knob off, placing the hand break fully on (helps get tunnel off). Then its a slightly tricky job getting the old sensor/switch off and the new one on. if you have small hands happy days, if not then, it will be a little tricky The switch resides underneath the gearstick, so you will have to take up some of the material around the stick to get at it. From start to finish, I would say 40 mins, if your taking your time.
http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/tvr-car-part-f0412...
I followed the instructions from Mr Varleys manual
Here are some posts about it from others:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=3&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=108...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=979...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=133...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=124...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Steve
Yes, I replaced mine recently
You may find out you don't have brake lights either. You have to remove the centre tunnel, after taking the gear knob off, placing the hand break fully on (helps get tunnel off). Then its a slightly tricky job getting the old sensor/switch off and the new one on. if you have small hands happy days, if not then, it will be a little tricky The switch resides underneath the gearstick, so you will have to take up some of the material around the stick to get at it. From start to finish, I would say 40 mins, if your taking your time.http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/tvr-car-part-f0412...
I followed the instructions from Mr Varleys manual
Here are some posts about it from others:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=3&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=108...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=979...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=133...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=124...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Steve
Edited by ShiDevil on Tuesday 17th December 19:21
ShiDevil said:
Hi,
Yes, I replaced mine recently You may find out you don't have brake lights either. You have to remove the centre tunnel, after taking the gear knob off, placing the hand break fully on (helps get tunnel off). Then its a slightly tricky job getting the old sensor/switch off and the new one on. if you have small hands happy days, if not then, it will be a little tricky The switch resides underneath the gearstick, so you will have to take up some of the material around the stick to get at it. From start to finish, I would say 40 mins, if your taking your time.
http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/tvr-car-part-f0412...
I followed the instructions from Mr Varleys manual
Steve
^^ what he said^^Yes, I replaced mine recently
You may find out you don't have brake lights either. You have to remove the centre tunnel, after taking the gear knob off, placing the hand break fully on (helps get tunnel off). Then its a slightly tricky job getting the old sensor/switch off and the new one on. if you have small hands happy days, if not then, it will be a little tricky The switch resides underneath the gearstick, so you will have to take up some of the material around the stick to get at it. From start to finish, I would say 40 mins, if your taking your time.http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/tvr-car-part-f0412...
I followed the instructions from Mr Varleys manual
Steve
plus here's a link to an extract from the Bible: http://www.varleyhyd.com/FJ062.asp#Reverse%20switc...
T
Oh and check the fuse first, if you haven't already Also check to see if the switch is being activated, or needs to be pushed across a little to engage Here's the photo of where it is located under the tunnel, from the link provided by K4TRV.
Also check to see if the switch is being activated, or needs to be pushed across a little to engage Here's the photo of where it is located under the tunnel, from the link provided by K4TRV. Edited by ShiDevil on Tuesday 17th December 19:33
Thank you so much for that, Steve, very helpful indeed!
Thing is, I told the 'professionals' who put my system in that they need to take the centre console off to have a look, but they insisted they need to get it on their ramps to check - but told me that the Tamora was too low to go on their 4-poster! I had fitted a reverse camera myself before, but forget the details, but I do know I had to fiddle with the reverse switch to make it work - but for the life of me, I cannot remember what it entailed - but I do know I didn't have to look under the damn car!
ETA - the guys at the car audio place, where I had it all fitted told me they checked every fuse, and they were all fine - oh and the brake lights work fine.
Thing is, I told the 'professionals' who put my system in that they need to take the centre console off to have a look, but they insisted they need to get it on their ramps to check - but told me that the Tamora was too low to go on their 4-poster! I had fitted a reverse camera myself before, but forget the details, but I do know I had to fiddle with the reverse switch to make it work - but for the life of me, I cannot remember what it entailed - but I do know I didn't have to look under the damn car!
ETA - the guys at the car audio place, where I had it all fitted told me they checked every fuse, and they were all fine - oh and the brake lights work fine.
Edited by chris watton on Tuesday 17th December 20:11
OK, have taken off the centre tunnel (5 minute job!), but had to separate the handbrake gaiter otherwise the main tunnel wouldn't have come off - no big deal as it's going to have a full re-trim anyway.
What a mess under the tunnel! So much black sealant I had to remove before removing the inner rubber gaiter.
I can see the reverse switch, have just come up to get keys and now am about to see if the switch actually works, or something is just out of alignment.....
What a mess under the tunnel! So much black sealant I had to remove before removing the inner rubber gaiter.
I can see the reverse switch, have just come up to get keys and now am about to see if the switch actually works, or something is just out of alignment.....
chris watton said:
OK, have taken off the centre tunnel (5 minute job!), but had to separate the handbrake gaiter otherwise the main tunnel wouldn't have come off - no big deal as it's going to have a full re-trim anyway.
What a mess under the tunnel! So much black sealant I had to remove before removing the inner rubber gaiter.
I can see the reverse switch, have just come up to get keys and now am about to see if the switch actually works, or something is just out of alignment.....
Take the targa panel off and tilt the tunnel cover up it will come off over the handbrake if the brake is on hardWhat a mess under the tunnel! So much black sealant I had to remove before removing the inner rubber gaiter.
I can see the reverse switch, have just come up to get keys and now am about to see if the switch actually works, or something is just out of alignment.....
Shep
OK,
Have tried the switch and still nothing:
There does seem to be a lot of play in the gear stick, it rotates quite a bit, meaning it could miss the switch, what can I do about that?
However, as I know the reverse switch doesn't work anyway, I guess I'll have to try and change that, first... Ordered on from Racing Green, I know they're quick with deliveries.
Shep - I have taken the targa top off, but the handbrake is adjusted a little too well, it doesn't pull up too far, and not far enough for me to manoeuvre the main tunnel off.
ETA 1 - would a multi-meter be a good investment, as I would like to know if there's actually any power coming from the wires that connect to the switch?
ETA 2 - I note that on the varleyhyd.com site, he mentions adding additional thermal material while the tunnel is off, would this do the job?
http://www.wickes.co.uk/thermal-insulation-foil-ro...
For this:
http://www.varleyhyd.com/images/Sagarisinsulate.jp...
ETA 3 - Damn grub screw is threaded for the gear stick - that's why there's so much play in it. Hope it's the grub screw and not the female thread...
Have tried the switch and still nothing:
There does seem to be a lot of play in the gear stick, it rotates quite a bit, meaning it could miss the switch, what can I do about that?
However, as I know the reverse switch doesn't work anyway, I guess I'll have to try and change that, first... Ordered on from Racing Green, I know they're quick with deliveries.
Shep - I have taken the targa top off, but the handbrake is adjusted a little too well, it doesn't pull up too far, and not far enough for me to manoeuvre the main tunnel off.
ETA 1 - would a multi-meter be a good investment, as I would like to know if there's actually any power coming from the wires that connect to the switch?
ETA 2 - I note that on the varleyhyd.com site, he mentions adding additional thermal material while the tunnel is off, would this do the job?
http://www.wickes.co.uk/thermal-insulation-foil-ro...
For this:
http://www.varleyhyd.com/images/Sagarisinsulate.jp...
ETA 3 - Damn grub screw is threaded for the gear stick - that's why there's so much play in it. Hope it's the grub screw and not the female thread...
Edited by chris watton on Wednesday 18th December 13:58
Maplins £7.99. Similar/same one in Halfrauds was £19.99 when I bought mine.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/ut-30b-digital-compact-m...
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/ut-30b-digital-compact-m...
QBee said:
Maplins £7.99. Similar/same one in Halfrauds was £19.99 when I bought mine.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/ut-30b-digital-compact-m...
Damn - teach me to learn to wait.. Just ordered this:http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/ut-30b-digital-compact-m...
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0012MCUVM/ref=...
(along with this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00F5WP990/ref=... )
That's got a laser temperature tester in it - really useful for checking engine temps and comparing with the temp gauge, and if you do track days, the temperature of your tyres as you come off track (inside and outside edges should be the same temp if your camber is correctly set).
So you got a good deal IMHO
So you got a good deal IMHO
Hi Chris,
That thermal stuff should do the trick, . Mine already had that when I removed the tunnel. Either a factory addition as mine was the last one, or something the previous owner did etc. Great work so far mate, keep it up, nearly there. When you adjust the switch, just make sure you don't move the bracket too far across to the left, as it needs to have an easy path of travel to be effective.
Have you also checked your fuse as well? Make sure you replace this, if needs be.
Steve
That thermal stuff should do the trick, . Mine already had that when I removed the tunnel. Either a factory addition as mine was the last one, or something the previous owner did etc. Great work so far mate, keep it up, nearly there. When you adjust the switch, just make sure you don't move the bracket too far across to the left, as it needs to have an easy path of travel to be effective.
Have you also checked your fuse as well? Make sure you replace this, if needs be.
Steve
ShiDevil said:
Hi Chris,
That thermal stuff should do the trick, . Mine already had that when I removed the tunnel. Either a factory addition as mine was the last one, or something the previous owner did etc. Great work so far mate, keep it up, nearly there. When you adjust the switch, just make sure you don't move the bracket too far across to the left, as it needs to have an easy path of travel to be effective.
Have you also checked your fuse as well? Make sure you replace this, if needs be.
Steve
Hi Steve. thank you! I now have the switch here on my desk (although I seem to have dropped a metal ring down the gear stick area when I removed the switch, don't know where that's gone..). I now have to wait for the new one to arrive. I had to go out and buy a 22 and 24mm spanner earlier to remove it.That thermal stuff should do the trick, . Mine already had that when I removed the tunnel. Either a factory addition as mine was the last one, or something the previous owner did etc. Great work so far mate, keep it up, nearly there. When you adjust the switch, just make sure you don't move the bracket too far across to the left, as it needs to have an easy path of travel to be effective.
Have you also checked your fuse as well? Make sure you replace this, if needs be.
Steve
The guys that fitted my ICE equipment yesterday told me they tried every fuse, and all was fine (although I may check again, as they weren't the best I've ever used..)
Which fuse is it, and where?
My worry is that when the new switch is fitted, what do I do if it still doesn't work and the fuse is also fine - such a mess under there that I wouldn't even know where to start!
Hi,
It will work Personally I would have checked the fuse first though, although a fuse going for this is normally the start of the need to replace the switch :P It's the brakelight fuse, I think 4th from the back, which is 38? and a 7.5 amp fuse off the top of my head.
My manuals in my car, at Dave the Trimmers :/
It might be worth investing in a magnet on a bendy stick for fishing out nuts, bolts etc It might be worth looking under the car...get a hoover and suck it up and retrieve that way.
Steve
It will work
Personally I would have checked the fuse first though, although a fuse going for this is normally the start of the need to replace the switch :P It's the brakelight fuse, I think 4th from the back, which is 38? and a 7.5 amp fuse off the top of my head.My manuals in my car, at Dave the Trimmers :/
It might be worth investing in a magnet on a bendy stick for fishing out nuts, bolts etc
It might be worth looking under the car...get a hoover and suck it up and retrieve that way.Steve
ShiDevil said:
Hi,
It will work Personally I would have checked the fuse first though, although a fuse going for this is normally the start of the need to replace the switch :P It's the brakelight fuse, I think 4th from the back, which is 38? and a 7.5 amp fuse off the top of my head.
My manuals in my car, at Dave the Trimmers :/
Steve
Ah, thank you, again. As the brake lights work fine, it's not the fuse, then.It will work
Personally I would have checked the fuse first though, although a fuse going for this is normally the start of the need to replace the switch :P It's the brakelight fuse, I think 4th from the back, which is 38? and a 7.5 amp fuse off the top of my head.My manuals in my car, at Dave the Trimmers :/
Steve
I must say what a great bunch of people you are on here. One of the reasons I wanted another Tam was the fact that I missed this particular forum. I felt a little down yesterday, after my experience with having my ICE fitted, but you guys soon snap me out of it!
chris watton said:
Wondered where my order I placed last week for the reverse switch was from RG, so emailed them. They told me that they don't have them in stock right now - thanks for informing me, then!
Just ordered from TVR Power, will be here tomorrow!
Oh dear that's not good Chris, no reversing until after Xmas!Just ordered from TVR Power, will be here tomorrow!
I hope you get it sorted pal.
Don
Very strange when fixing in place. the first two times, before tightening up I check it by pressing the switch manually, but nothing! I then check all the wires and they seem to be fine, even keeping my thumb on the switch while I pulled/bent the wires all ways. I then swapped the switch around in the plug and now it works fine when in place. Does the switch need to be plugged into the correct plug holes, then, there is no =/- on the terminals?
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