Chim Got Tooooo Hot on the South Coast
Discussion
Travelled on the predicable route of the A1, M25, M3 down to Porstmouth/Southampton area for a wedding this last weekend. The action at teh church was on Sunday (?) so spent Sat pm on Southsea prom watching the Isle of Wight Hovercraft bugger about. Has something so slow ever made so much noise?
Anyway, while making our way back to the Botley hotel about 5.15pm ran into some heavy bloody footie traffic in Portsmouth itself, got stuck in this queue for about 45 mins - I kid you not the car was approaching 110 (degrees on the temp gauge not mph on the speedo.) I had to dive into some side road and sit there with the engine off and bonnet up for about 15 minutes. First of all couldn't even lift the bonnet/stay up without a rag as it was so hot!!
My question is: why didn't/couldn't the fans hold the temp down to under three figures? That is the first time I have ever been concerned about the car's temperature as we rarely get traffic jams up here - should have known better of course in the south
.
Car normally runs at 70/75 in 'overcast' conditions and 90 in the very warm (when moving).
Do I need a look at the cooling system (flush?) or was this just a one-off because I moved aout 100yards in 45 mins?
Added to which, when trying to fill with Optimax in Waterlooveille, I struggled for about ten minutes to get the new Leven petrol camp off? Embarrassing or what as I had already stopped at the pump obviously. I had to slope off to a corner of the forecourt under the gaze of a Cossie owner and try again!
Sorry for the long post.
Edited to say: Botley-M27-M3-M25-A1-Home 2hours 20 mins and that wasn't really nailing it all that much, M25 traffic - there was none!
>>> Edited by MikeyT on Monday 26th August 21:58
Anyway, while making our way back to the Botley hotel about 5.15pm ran into some heavy bloody footie traffic in Portsmouth itself, got stuck in this queue for about 45 mins - I kid you not the car was approaching 110 (degrees on the temp gauge not mph on the speedo.) I had to dive into some side road and sit there with the engine off and bonnet up for about 15 minutes. First of all couldn't even lift the bonnet/stay up without a rag as it was so hot!!
My question is: why didn't/couldn't the fans hold the temp down to under three figures? That is the first time I have ever been concerned about the car's temperature as we rarely get traffic jams up here - should have known better of course in the south
. Car normally runs at 70/75 in 'overcast' conditions and 90 in the very warm (when moving).
Do I need a look at the cooling system (flush?) or was this just a one-off because I moved aout 100yards in 45 mins?
Added to which, when trying to fill with Optimax in Waterlooveille, I struggled for about ten minutes to get the new Leven petrol camp off? Embarrassing or what as I had already stopped at the pump obviously. I had to slope off to a corner of the forecourt under the gaze of a Cossie owner and try again!
Sorry for the long post.
Edited to say: Botley-M27-M3-M25-A1-Home 2hours 20 mins and that wasn't really nailing it all that much, M25 traffic - there was none!
>>> Edited by MikeyT on Monday 26th August 21:58
mine has also done this once, has very similar running temps to yours but last week in london when it was very hot it got to nearly 110 in traffic before the fans came in, they had been coming on and off and then just took ages to come on. Didn't have to stop the engine but was quite concerned!! seems fine now!!
Mike welcome to the sunny south coast!! I take it the queue was to get onto the M275 out of town? Bad enough during the rush hour(s), but on a pompey home match a 
.
Glad all's well now, can you leave it running in the garage at home so that the fans cut in and bring the temp down a bit or does it just keep on rising? if it does then perhaps it does need a flush out, hoses off back flush with the garden hose to wash the sludge out of the bottom of the rad maybe? (always worked on mini's
)
Harry
. Glad all's well now, can you leave it running in the garage at home so that the fans cut in and bring the temp down a bit or does it just keep on rising? if it does then perhaps it does need a flush out, hoses off back flush with the garden hose to wash the sludge out of the bottom of the rad maybe? (always worked on mini's
) Harry
Guys...
why are you waiting to the temp reaches 110 before turning off the engine. At these temps, there is a great danger of serious damage to the engine. Like warped heads, crank oil seals going and so on.
I suspect there is a fault. If the fans are not coming on early enough then they will struggle to cool the car. The otter switch could be faulty. How are the coolent levels? If low you can get problems as well. Did the thermostat stick and so on.
Basically I would go through the cooling system with a fine tooth comb.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
why are you waiting to the temp reaches 110 before turning off the engine. At these temps, there is a great danger of serious damage to the engine. Like warped heads, crank oil seals going and so on.
I suspect there is a fault. If the fans are not coming on early enough then they will struggle to cool the car. The otter switch could be faulty. How are the coolent levels? If low you can get problems as well. Did the thermostat stick and so on.
Basically I would go through the cooling system with a fine tooth comb.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Chaps,
I've had a low temp thermostat and otter switch fitted to my 500. I've done this to cope with the inevitable crawling along in traffic that occurs 'Darn Sarf'. She now never gets above 80 on the gauge, even in heavy traffic. I don't have to mess about with fan overrides or watching the temp gauge like a hawk anymore. Typically the temp hovers around 70 once on the move. If you're worried about over heating, then I'd recommend this mod as something to consider. I'm not sure that the 400/450 models are as prone to overheating as the 500, but even prior to the mod, I've never seen much above 90 on the temp gauge without there being a problem with the cooling system.
Hope this helps,
Steve
I've had a low temp thermostat and otter switch fitted to my 500. I've done this to cope with the inevitable crawling along in traffic that occurs 'Darn Sarf'. She now never gets above 80 on the gauge, even in heavy traffic. I don't have to mess about with fan overrides or watching the temp gauge like a hawk anymore. Typically the temp hovers around 70 once on the move. If you're worried about over heating, then I'd recommend this mod as something to consider. I'm not sure that the 400/450 models are as prone to overheating as the 500, but even prior to the mod, I've never seen much above 90 on the temp gauge without there being a problem with the cooling system.
Hope this helps,
Steve
Sorry to hear your troubles there MikeyT, sounds exactly the same as mine a while ago. Glad to hear however no lasting damage done and she went lovely all the way home.
When mine goes in for its cosmetic I'll be asking about this low temp 'stat and switch combo as that sounds interesting. Makes me wonder however why TVR dont fit them in the first place, is there some sort of trade off?
Matt.
When mine goes in for its cosmetic I'll be asking about this low temp 'stat and switch combo as that sounds interesting. Makes me wonder however why TVR dont fit them in the first place, is there some sort of trade off?
Matt.
The gauge was at about 105 and I was getting a bit concerned. To be honest it was difficult to turn the engine off as every half minute or so the car in front rolled forward a bit and traffic was joining from the left, so if I didn't move, I would never have moved if you see what I mean.
Car performed brilliantly all the way home with weather temps in the 60's. Gauge stayed on 75 all the way.
I'll be looking at that mod that Steve's had done after checking the system.
HarryW – we left the seabit at the east end of the bech by Hayling Island if that makes sense. The queue was for the M27 – east of the football ground. We had come into the city a bit earlier on the M275, which took us straight into Southsea.
Car performed brilliantly all the way home with weather temps in the 60's. Gauge stayed on 75 all the way.
I'll be looking at that mod that Steve's had done after checking the system.
HarryW – we left the seabit at the east end of the bech by Hayling Island if that makes sense. The queue was for the M27 – east of the football ground. We had come into the city a bit earlier on the M275, which took us straight into Southsea.
quote:
Makes me wonder however why TVR dont fit them in the first place, is there some sort of trade off?
They do. The stat and otter switch are lower temp specs to those fitted to Rovers. However, they are many cars that have had them replaced with the Rover parts cos "the engine is a Rover and I can get the bits cheaper instead of from TVR who rip me off" which then starts causing problems. Seen this many many times.
There are slightly lower ones that can be used as well and these may be worth considering. I know that Tower View and many others tend to fit them as standard.
Still invest in an overide switch as even the low temp otter switches fail and watch the temp guage. There are other failures which can cause the temp to rise. Head gaskets is one which if not caught could result in warped heads and a big big big bill instead of just a big bill.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
quote:
Steve T, where did you have this done and how much did it cost if you don't mind me asking.
Sorry to butt in, but I was talking to Simon at Leven the other day and he was saying that they do a cooling kit which involves the lower-temp thermostat and otter switch, and David Batty near Guildford fits them. I'm going to get this done one of these days soon. As soon as I can bear to be without the Griff for a few days!
I had a similar problem in my 450. Turned out to be a faulty otter switch. Got this replaced with a low temp switch by Offord, now the temp never goes above 80-85 even in heavy traffic on a hot day.
Also for peace of mind I've got the mod-wise fan override switch but I've never had to use it yet.
Also for peace of mind I've got the mod-wise fan override switch but I've never had to use it yet.
quote:
I had a similar problem in my 450. Turned out to be a faulty otter switch. Got this replaced with a low temp switch by Offord, now the temp never goes above 80-85 even in heavy traffic on a hot day.
Also for peace of mind I've got the mod-wise fan override switch but I've never had to use it yet.
Gotta get one of these fitted by Offord when it's serviced me thinks. Any rough price on that? Gonna visit mod-wises's site as well.
Had recent scares as well, although i think mine was due to a sensor that likes to exaggerate the temp, as i had this checked at the last service. They confirmed the coolant was running at normal operating temps. I have been told that the sensor can pick up a lot of ambient temp, if you are sitting still there is no air flow and things just get hotter under the bonnet.
Having said that i obtained lower temp otter and thermostat from tvr for about £25 and fitted myself. running temps are lower, although it does creep up beyond the 90 mark to about halfway when sitting in traffic. I think all my dials are displaying unaccurate readings - a recent rolling road session highlighted that both the revometer and speedo were giving higher readings by up to about 10% at some speeds.
Is this common?
Having said that i obtained lower temp otter and thermostat from tvr for about £25 and fitted myself. running temps are lower, although it does creep up beyond the 90 mark to about halfway when sitting in traffic. I think all my dials are displaying unaccurate readings - a recent rolling road session highlighted that both the revometer and speedo were giving higher readings by up to about 10% at some speeds.
Is this common?
2p in to the pot...
If the fans can't hold the coolant temp at 90C, they won't be able to hold them at 80C either. Having a lower temp otter switch will just cause the system to take a little longer to reach its equilbrium temperature, but the equlibrium temp will NOT have been lowered. You need to find out why your cooling system is inefficient.
If your cooling system can hold the temp around 90C with the aid of the fans, then why fit a lower temp otter switch? Why is running at 80C better than 90C?
I've never understood the logic of replacing the standard TVR components. If the rest of the cooling system is working properly, then its clearly unnecessary. If there is a problem, then replacing them isn't going to cure the root cause anyway.
If the fans can't hold the coolant temp at 90C, they won't be able to hold them at 80C either. Having a lower temp otter switch will just cause the system to take a little longer to reach its equilbrium temperature, but the equlibrium temp will NOT have been lowered. You need to find out why your cooling system is inefficient.
If your cooling system can hold the temp around 90C with the aid of the fans, then why fit a lower temp otter switch? Why is running at 80C better than 90C?
I've never understood the logic of replacing the standard TVR components. If the rest of the cooling system is working properly, then its clearly unnecessary. If there is a problem, then replacing them isn't going to cure the root cause anyway.
) then you could save a few quid.Cheers for that cmdar.
ATG – yes I agree, the lower temp one may not help and may jsut mask the problem. I'll have to try and sort that problem as the fans *should* hold the temp in the early 90s in ALL traffic conditions surely? (With a colling system working at 100%
)
Mine was gently rising ... even with the fans being on full blast. Sat there, bonnet up, ignition on, with fans blasting away until they stopped so presumably temp had come down to 92 ish.
>> Edited by MikeyT on Tuesday 27th August 12:14
ATG – yes I agree, the lower temp one may not help and may jsut mask the problem. I'll have to try and sort that problem as the fans *should* hold the temp in the early 90s in ALL traffic conditions surely? (With a colling system working at 100%
) Mine was gently rising ... even with the fans being on full blast. Sat there, bonnet up, ignition on, with fans blasting away until they stopped so presumably temp had come down to 92 ish.
>> Edited by MikeyT on Tuesday 27th August 12:14
My Chimaera also runs hot - round about 95 to 99 in crawling traffic. Have to say that it makes my feel a little uncomfortable/worried.
I would like to check the coolant level but I can't work out how to do this from the handbook/bonnet inspection.
Please pardon my lack of knowledge but can anyone let me know how to check it?
I would like to check the coolant level but I can't work out how to do this from the handbook/bonnet inspection.
Please pardon my lack of knowledge but can anyone let me know how to check it?
quote:
Do I need a look at the cooling system (flush?) or was this just a one-off because I moved aout 100yards in 45 mins?
Any reason to keep the engine on at all if you were moving that slowly? I tend to kill the engine if it looks like its not going to move after a couple of minutes.
Then again, being Scottish, its just to save on the wear-and-tear, and the petrol
quote:
2p in to the pot...
If the fans can't hold the coolant temp at 90C, they won't be able to hold them at 80C either. Having a lower temp otter switch will just cause the system to take a little longer to reach its equilbrium temperature, but the equlibrium temp will NOT have been lowered. You need to find out why your cooling system is inefficient.
If your cooling system can hold the temp around 90C with the aid of the fans, then why fit a lower temp otter switch? Why is running at 80C better than 90C?
I've never understood the logic of replacing the standard TVR components. If the rest of the cooling system is working properly, then its clearly unnecessary. If there is a problem, then replacing them isn't going to cure the root cause anyway.
My thoughts exactly ATG - all you are reducing is the temperature at which the fans kick-in, this doesnt necessarily reduce the temperature or its ability to overheat.
Spoke to an independant dealer where I bought mine from - asked about the otter switch etc. Comment back was "is it a problem, and does it overheat?". Well err no - "so dont touch it then, its obviously working and therefore not a problem". The logic is sound and they believe that it makes better sense to fix any problems that the cooling system might have - like radiators, hoses, sensors etc.
If you want to replace the otter switch with another one then fine - it is now a common modification to make and standard fit I am lead to believe. However, I must also admit to the fact that I am probably going to get the Mod-Wise fan system sorted out. Not for any other reason that the profile of driving that I do doesnt do the car any favours - fast, fast, fast, stationary, stopped, slow, slow, stop..... etc etc. Just seems that the places that I go dont lend themselves to TVRs. As a result I get HORRENDOUS heat build-up which takes ages to get rid of - something that the Mod-wise kit should help with. But then again I am probably the rare person here - just seems to be the roads / time / location that I drive on causes this....
Cheers,
Paul
quote:
My Chimaera also runs hot - round about 95 to 99 in crawling traffic. Have to say that it makes my feel a little uncomfortable/worried.
I would like to check the coolant level but I can't work out how to do this from the handbook/bonnet inspection.
Please pardon my lack of knowledge but can anyone let me know how to check it?
Measure the level in the swirl pot. Swirl pot is an aluminium cylinder on passenger side of engine bay. The cylinder is about 15cm across with a large brass plug screwed into the top. In fact the whole cylinder is about the size and shape of a thermos flask ... roughly. Some big hoses attached to its sides too. When the engine is cold, get a big screwdriver and used the edge of its blade to open the brass nut on the swirl pot. Fluid level should be 2 inches below the top.
>> Edited by ATG on Tuesday 27th August 13:32
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