No oil pressure after engine rebuild
Discussion
Have an oil pressure issue after rebuilding the 350i engine, insomuch as the pump aint pumping!
When I rebuilt the engine I did inspect the pump (no problem with oil pressure before rebuild) to have a gander and to clean it out as the oil and water had mixed prior to rebuild. All looked fine to me so just put on a new gasket and closed it up again (didn't know about the vaseline trick at the time)
Oil pickup and strainer was cleaned when off and new gasket installed when put back on.
Have spun the oil pump using the drill method but get nothing coming through, just a dribble when I take the high pressure hose off.
I havn't packed the pump with vaseline as I guess if spinning the pump using the drill method hasn't worked then there must be a problem elsewhere. Research seems to point to an air leak but don't know how to test this. Don't want to strip the sump or timing cover as I've only just put them back on!
Any ideas chaps?
John
When I rebuilt the engine I did inspect the pump (no problem with oil pressure before rebuild) to have a gander and to clean it out as the oil and water had mixed prior to rebuild. All looked fine to me so just put on a new gasket and closed it up again (didn't know about the vaseline trick at the time)
Oil pickup and strainer was cleaned when off and new gasket installed when put back on.
Have spun the oil pump using the drill method but get nothing coming through, just a dribble when I take the high pressure hose off.
I havn't packed the pump with vaseline as I guess if spinning the pump using the drill method hasn't worked then there must be a problem elsewhere. Research seems to point to an air leak but don't know how to test this. Don't want to strip the sump or timing cover as I've only just put them back on!
Any ideas chaps?
John
Got a better look at the pressure release valve this morning and can confirm the piston is free moving.
How do people do the vaseline packing, I'm struggling to even get to the nuts to split the casing (not going to be able to as two of the nuts are rounded) You need hands of a small child to work on this car!!
Will try filling the pipes with oil, also read people saying they fill the oil filter, how the heck do you do that, seems the filter on mine works under pressure or something - Unipart GFE 295
I've put 6 litres of 20/50 oil in the engine, so well over the max mark as I was hoping it would work straight away and fill the oil filter. Is 6 litres enough?
How do people do the vaseline packing, I'm struggling to even get to the nuts to split the casing (not going to be able to as two of the nuts are rounded) You need hands of a small child to work on this car!!
Will try filling the pipes with oil, also read people saying they fill the oil filter, how the heck do you do that, seems the filter on mine works under pressure or something - Unipart GFE 295
I've put 6 litres of 20/50 oil in the engine, so well over the max mark as I was hoping it would work straight away and fill the oil filter. Is 6 litres enough?
Edited by jgmadkit on Sunday 30th July 14:35
jgmadkit said:
the plunger should cone out too then clean up with some fine wet n dry it should slide up and down the spring holds it up
How do you tell? I undid the nut which released the spring but couldn't really get to it very well to see what else was there. Was a right bugger getting the nut back on as well
How do you tell? I undid the nut which released the spring but couldn't really get to it very well to see what else was there. Was a right bugger getting the nut back on as well
YAY 
Never thought I would be so relieved to hear the gurgle of oil going round the engine. It has oil pressure at last 
Tried the method of filling from the oil filter remote mount and worked a treat. Many thanks guys, thoughts of having to take the timing cover and sump off again were giving me the heebeegeebees.
A trick that I will now remember and pass on in future.
Cheers once again, I can now crack on and hopefully get it firing.
John
Never thought I would be so relieved to hear the gurgle of oil going round the engine. It has oil pressure at last Tried the method of filling from the oil filter remote mount and worked a treat. Many thanks guys, thoughts of having to take the timing cover and sump off again were giving me the heebeegeebees.
A trick that I will now remember and pass on in future.
Cheers once again, I can now crack on and hopefully get it firing.
John
Starting a Rover that's been apart is always a concern. The number of times I've waited and worried for the oil light to switch out. It's a leap of faith but works eventually. Even with a high torque drill and vaseline it can take an age. I expect the serp engines prime a lot quicker.
Boosted LS1 said:
Starting a Rover that's been apart is always a concern. The number of times I've waited and worried for the oil light to switch out. It's a leap of faith but works eventually. Even with a high torque drill and vaseline it can take an age. I expect the serp engines prime a lot quicker.
My 350i engine has not been apart but it takes forever to start first thing....Okay its a bit of a concern in the winter as regards to the battery/starter and general wear but as for pre-priming..not a problem...
When the yearly oil change is done the filter is always left on until the oil has been changed, then off with the old and on with the new..filled up filter and hydraulics to remote, king lead off and chug it for a few cranks to build up the oil pressure...Happy days...
Update....It fires!
Further work this weekend getting things finished off. Got everything buttoned up but no dice initially, no spark. Traced it back to a broken wire between coil and dizzy, fixed then started on the button. Much relief.
Sounds much better than before although there is a bit of hunting, although not drastic, but will need sorting. Need to sort out a petrol leak from the tank/rubber. Hoping it is just perished rubber and not the tank itself. There's always something...
Further work this weekend getting things finished off. Got everything buttoned up but no dice initially, no spark. Traced it back to a broken wire between coil and dizzy, fixed then started on the button. Much relief.
Sounds much better than before although there is a bit of hunting, although not drastic, but will need sorting. Need to sort out a petrol leak from the tank/rubber. Hoping it is just perished rubber and not the tank itself. There's always something...
Spoke too soon. Went out to the garage this evening to fire it up, fired up but then died after 2-3 seconds. Tried several times but this is all it does. Checked everything over but can't see an issue.
Thought I might have cracked it as found a thread where someone had exactly the same issue which turned out to be no 12 volt on No.2 key ignition position, checked mine and it has 12v!
Confused. Havn't changed anything since it was running and drove it back into the garage.
Thought I might have cracked it as found a thread where someone had exactly the same issue which turned out to be no 12 volt on No.2 key ignition position, checked mine and it has 12v!
Confused. Havn't changed anything since it was running and drove it back into the garage.
jgmadkit said:
there is a bit of hunting, although not drastic, but will need sorting.
Hi mate, are you sure that the plenum is sealed properly?..Have you removed the idle control valve?jgmadkit said:
Need to sort out a petrol leak from the tank/rubber. Hoping it is just perished rubber and not the tank itself.
The cutting out could be attributed to flakes of rubber in the system..have you changed the fuel filter?......and finally do you have a solid state FRP?
Sounds like the fuel pump is actuated under cranking then stops when the engine actually starts. Turn the ignition on with the air filter removed and move the AFM flap with your finger, the fuel pump should switch on. If not check the AFM wiring.
Also check the black/white wire under the AFM that goes to the ignition module, I think that also may have this effect as it tells the ECU that the engine is running.
Also check the black/white wire under the AFM that goes to the ignition module, I think that also may have this effect as it tells the ECU that the engine is running.
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