997.1 GT3 Manual - Mods ?
Discussion
Lovely. I'd get comfortable with it first then decide what aspect of it you'd like yo improve. The possibilities are endless. Many track dray drivers upsize the front tyres to Cup 2 245 35 19 tyres for better turn in 
In the unlikely event you blow up your engine you can go upgrade to 3.8 but makes barely any difference to fun levels unless you're racing them. TracTive coil overs popular and make you faster as do passive coil overs but TracTive do rob you of a little front end feel on initial turn in.
Use it and get lots of trackdays in then decide as parts wear out.
In the unlikely event you blow up your engine you can go upgrade to 3.8 but makes barely any difference to fun levels unless you're racing them. TracTive coil overs popular and make you faster as do passive coil overs but TracTive do rob you of a little front end feel on initial turn in.
Use it and get lots of trackdays in then decide as parts wear out.
Yes good advice.
9e enhanced a Turbo S I owned when in the UK.
These included Exhaust & Gear shifter improvements
amongst others.
The GT3 even as standard sounds excellent but we can’t help ourselves looking on YouTube these days
I see Dundon do an exhaust and power upgrade package.
Maybe Kline which i still have on the Turbo.
9e enhanced a Turbo S I owned when in the UK.
These included Exhaust & Gear shifter improvements
amongst others.
The GT3 even as standard sounds excellent but we can’t help ourselves looking on YouTube these days
I see Dundon do an exhaust and power upgrade package.
Maybe Kline which i still have on the Turbo.
1. Take it to CofG for full suspension assessment - if OK, have them geo it. If not, replace parts as required and then geo. Can transform the car.
2. Check diff and if plates worn (likely) upgrade to cup spec if tracking. If just for road, renew standard ones.
3. If tracking consider upgrading front discs and pads eg Alcon / PFC. Leave rears standard.
4. Leave exhaust alone.
5. Drive as much as you can.
2. Check diff and if plates worn (likely) upgrade to cup spec if tracking. If just for road, renew standard ones.
3. If tracking consider upgrading front discs and pads eg Alcon / PFC. Leave rears standard.
4. Leave exhaust alone.
5. Drive as much as you can.
Discombobulate said:
1. Take it to CofG for full suspension assessment - if OK, have them geo it. If not, replace parts as required and then geo. Can transform the car.
2. Check diff and if plates worn (likely) upgrade to cup spec if tracking. If just for road, renew standard ones.
3. If tracking consider upgrading front discs and pads eg Alcon / PFC. Leave rears standard.
4. Leave exhaust alone.
5. Drive as much as you can.
3. Does this still apply if you go two piece/giro or should you do front and back?2. Check diff and if plates worn (likely) upgrade to cup spec if tracking. If just for road, renew standard ones.
3. If tracking consider upgrading front discs and pads eg Alcon / PFC. Leave rears standard.
4. Leave exhaust alone.
5. Drive as much as you can.
Mine is on Ohlins R&T, I've never driven a stock GT3 so no comparison but it's very planted.
shantybeater said:
3. Does this still apply if you go two piece/giro or should you do front and back?
Mine is on Ohlins R&T, I've never driven a stock GT3 so no comparison but it's very planted.
I would say yes, it still applies, but others may comment.Mine is on Ohlins R&T, I've never driven a stock GT3 so no comparison but it's very planted.
I also ran a well tracked 996.2 GT3 for few years and everyone who worked on it - from Neil Garner and CoG to Fearnsport - said leave the rears standard. I did upgrade fronts to PFC (very dusty they were too). Suspension was KWv3. And diff had cup plates. Never once felt I needed better rear brakes.
More talent? Yes.
Not in the market now but hopefully in the future... A potential preventative modification - Do the coolant pipes need attention on these? Wouldn't fancy a failure on track, potentially damaging the engine and causing chaos in my wake.
I followed a 997.1 Turbo that blew it's coolant pipes off through Tiergarten which is essentially the same Mezger engine?
I followed a 997.1 Turbo that blew it's coolant pipes off through Tiergarten which is essentially the same Mezger engine?
As it's your first GT3 and you're in Australia, I'd be doing absolutely nothing to it. Any mods will have minimal benefit and be hugely expensive, as well as probably hurting the value of what is an extremely expensive car in Oz.
They are amazingly good out of the box. Take it on as many track days as you can, get tuition and you'll spend a long time indeed trying to unlock its potential.
Driving mod 1 - use 2nd gear for overtaking on country roads. It's good for about 130kph. 3rd gear will feel a little lacklustre until 100kph+
Driving mod 2 - learn how to trail brake if you're not already familiar. Otherwise the car will feel understeery and underwhelming.
Enjoy!
They are amazingly good out of the box. Take it on as many track days as you can, get tuition and you'll spend a long time indeed trying to unlock its potential.
Driving mod 1 - use 2nd gear for overtaking on country roads. It's good for about 130kph. 3rd gear will feel a little lacklustre until 100kph+
Driving mod 2 - learn how to trail brake if you're not already familiar. Otherwise the car will feel understeery and underwhelming.
Enjoy!
The neat thing about the car is there's a rather wide range of mods depending on how much you're tempted to chuck at the car and just what kind of difference you're looking to make.....
Would say new diff ramps and cup plates are the thing I'd do first, particularly if any kind of use (even light) on track is being considered. After that, probably suspension (take your pick based on cost) but you'll want to have someone who is familiar with that side of things to get a good combination for your use. Then probably upgraded brakes (2 piece racing is good, ST even better but a tad pricey), lighter rims, side muffler deletes (saves rather a lot of weight and doesn't cook your rear tyres) all the way up to shorter ratios (with longer 6th) and engine capacity increase (Manthey will do you a 4.2 should sir so wish.....).....
Would say new diff ramps and cup plates are the thing I'd do first, particularly if any kind of use (even light) on track is being considered. After that, probably suspension (take your pick based on cost) but you'll want to have someone who is familiar with that side of things to get a good combination for your use. Then probably upgraded brakes (2 piece racing is good, ST even better but a tad pricey), lighter rims, side muffler deletes (saves rather a lot of weight and doesn't cook your rear tyres) all the way up to shorter ratios (with longer 6th) and engine capacity increase (Manthey will do you a 4.2 should sir so wish.....).....
Thanks for the great replies.
It came with new disks and yellow pads, possibly GT2..
Any particular exhaust that works well or not worth the change from standard?
Driveline I find noticeably clunky particularly when cold…maybe connected to comment on Diff mods?
Maybe that’s part of that machine like feel which gives it its character.
The use I plan is mainly spirited Country road driving, occasional track day / short Hillclimbs.
But who knows, I guess with a GT3 it could be very tempting.
What a car so far.
First drive was approx 11hrs back from Sydney to Queensland, 1100kms in 1 stint.
It came with new disks and yellow pads, possibly GT2..
Any particular exhaust that works well or not worth the change from standard?
Driveline I find noticeably clunky particularly when cold…maybe connected to comment on Diff mods?
Maybe that’s part of that machine like feel which gives it its character.
The use I plan is mainly spirited Country road driving, occasional track day / short Hillclimbs.
But who knows, I guess with a GT3 it could be very tempting.
What a car so far.
First drive was approx 11hrs back from Sydney to Queensland, 1100kms in 1 stint.
The plastic bushes in the shifter are a bit of a weak point and contribute to the difficulty shifting when cold. If you’re looking for a nice mod that only takes an hour or two, upgrade the bushes in the shifter with aluminium ones from Phenix Engineering, or buy the Function First kit. They make the shifter much better even when cold, so it’s not as notchy (it’s still a little stiff when cold but more direct). Possibly the cables being removed and refitted to do this job makes as much of a difference, but it definitely all works.
Jefferson Steelflex said:
The plastic bushes in the shifter are a bit of a weak point and contribute to the difficulty shifting when cold. If you’re looking for a nice mod that only takes an hour or two, upgrade the bushes in the shifter with aluminium ones from Phenix Engineering, or buy the Function First kit. They make the shifter much better even when cold, so it’s not as notchy (it’s still a little stiff when cold but more direct). Possibly the cables being removed and refitted to do this job makes as much of a difference, but it definitely all works.
I'd firstly check if it's got a Short Shift ...Lift the boot around the shifter and look for the part number sticker in there...
If it's a short shifter, it'll make it worse cold.
isaldiri said:
Andyoz said:
I'd firstly check if it's got a Short Shift ...
Lift the boot around the shifter and look for the part number sticker in there...
If it's a short shifter, it'll make it worse cold.
A gt3 wouldn't have the short shift kit? That was only on the other 997s I thought.Lift the boot around the shifter and look for the part number sticker in there...
If it's a short shifter, it'll make it worse cold.
Andyoz said:
That's interesting. I just mentioned it from my experience of a 997 Short Shift being fitted to 996 GT3 and thought 997 GT3 might see the same mod (which I'm no fan of)
The 6gt3 as standard ime has a (far) neater shift than the 7gt3 which is a good bit more clunky. Didn't realise the 997 short shift kit could be retrofitted to the 6gt3 tbh!Gassing Station | 911/Carrera GT | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff