Brake fluid change, tips, tricks and gadgets?
Discussion
The best way I have found is using a clear hose from the bleed nipple up to a glass jar where the driver can see it. This makes it a one-person operation, and you can keep bleeding until the fluid runs clear. Just remember to keep the reservoir topped up.
I've found the pressure and vacuum approaches both problematic.
I've found the pressure and vacuum approaches both problematic.
If you can get the correct reservoir cap fitting, pressure, every time, it's quick and efficient. The Gunson is a bit micky-mouse but cheap, others eg Sealey with a pressure vessel are better but dearer.
If you can't, then vacuum, but you will need to 'seal' the nipple threads with a suitable grease first. The hand-held types of pump eg Mitivac will do it but are tiring, floor-standing hand pumps with a bigger vacuum chamber are better, other types require a compressor.
Whichever method you use (including the prehistoric "Down!"-"Down"-"Up!"-"Up"-"Down!"-"Down" method), firstly suck as much old fluid out of the reservoir as you can, before refilling with the correct type of fluid, noting that the choice has increased for later cars.
If you can't, then vacuum, but you will need to 'seal' the nipple threads with a suitable grease first. The hand-held types of pump eg Mitivac will do it but are tiring, floor-standing hand pumps with a bigger vacuum chamber are better, other types require a compressor.
Whichever method you use (including the prehistoric "Down!"-"Down"-"Up!"-"Up"-"Down!"-"Down" method), firstly suck as much old fluid out of the reservoir as you can, before refilling with the correct type of fluid, noting that the choice has increased for later cars.
GreenV8S said:
I found the pressure types either failing to seal properly or failing to stay attached to the reservoir, too many times. When they leak or blow off, it's a huge faff to clean the corrosive paint stripper off the car.
Sounds like user error. You don’t need more than 10psi. You must be going way over they to blow off a threaded connector.trickywoo said:
GreenV8S said:
I found the pressure types either failing to seal properly or failing to stay attached to the reservoir, too many times. When they leak or blow off, it's a huge faff to clean the corrosive paint stripper off the car.
Sounds like user error. You don’t need more than 10psi. You must be going way over they to blow off a threaded connector.GreenV8S said:
TwinKam said:
modern paint is unaffected by brake fluid
That's new on me. Diethylene glycol is notoriously effective as a paint stripper. Perhaps you're thinking of DOT5 silicone based brake fluid, but that's not widely used for ordinary road cars.TwinKam said:
Perhaps you're thinking of celly... yes, instant melt down. With 2k paint or lacquer you'll have some (5?) minutes to flush it off before it does any harm.
Yep, definitely needs cleaning off carefully and fast, which can get a bit frantic when it's just sprayed itself around the engine bay.When using the Eezibleed kit I don't bother filling the kit's bottle with brake fluid and just attach the cap to the brake fluid reservoir, which avoids spraying the engine bay etc with brake fluid if the cap pops off. It just means you have to keep a close eye on the level in the brake fluid reservoir and top up more regularly. I always remove the hose from the tyre valve before topping up just to avoid a burst of air spraying brake fluid.
Use proper 6-side ring spanners; I usually use my flare spanner set from brake lines - More contact means less ruined bleeder nuts.
Spray bottle filled with water for flushing the area down afterwards.
Halfords special Vizibleed with a pepsi bottle taped together as the drain (Ghetto, I know
) is how I get around mine - Usually does the job, especially when combined with a classic partnered "Open.." "Close.." "Open.." "Close.."
If you're doing Monoblock callipers with multiple bleeders, check the service manual - Usually it's inside, outside, inside again to memory - But will differ by design.
Spray bottle filled with water for flushing the area down afterwards.
Halfords special Vizibleed with a pepsi bottle taped together as the drain (Ghetto, I know

If you're doing Monoblock callipers with multiple bleeders, check the service manual - Usually it's inside, outside, inside again to memory - But will differ by design.
GreenV8S said:
TwinKam said:
Perhaps you're thinking of celly... yes, instant melt down. With 2k paint or lacquer you'll have some (5?) minutes to flush it off before it does any harm.
Yep, definitely needs cleaning off carefully and fast, which can get a bit frantic when it's just sprayed itself around the engine bay.Edited by SAS Tom on Friday 26th July 20:36
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