Larch featheredge shiplap question
Larch featheredge shiplap question
Author
Discussion

DonkeyApple

Original Poster:

63,090 posts

185 months

Wednesday 12th March
quotequote all
I'd like the cladding to cup inwards and as a plank will cup away from the heart and towards the bark, to me this means laying the boards heart side out. Builder insists 'it's smiley face in' but can't explain which part of the smiley face is in the most. His 'saying' in meaningless to me and he has insisted on setting the first boards with the heart side against the building.

Lotobear

8,026 posts

144 months

Wednesday 12th March
quotequote all
..surely there is only one way to fix a feather edge board due to its profile - right angle face to the supporting structure?

chrisch77

840 posts

91 months

Wednesday 12th March
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Surely it is either shiplap or feather edge. It can’t be both?

Feather edge by definition is a tapered board, mounted overlapping the board below but not sitting ‘flat’ against the wall. Shiplap has rebated edges too and bottom so the board edges overlap but the boards sit flat against the wall framework/battens.

DonkeyApple

Original Poster:

63,090 posts

185 months

Wednesday 12th March
quotequote all
Lotobear said:
..surely there is only one way to fix a feather edge board due to its profile - right angle face to the supporting structure?
Not sure I follow? It's just shiplap cladding and we have a disparity re whether the heart side or bark side face the wall in order to have the cupping bring the edges in rather than curling out. My understanding is that a plank will cup out to the bark side so that's the side to have facing in and then any cupping is to the centre where the nails can apply a counter.

Lotobear

8,026 posts

144 months

Wednesday 12th March
quotequote all
DonkeyApple said:
Lotobear said:
..surely there is only one way to fix a feather edge board due to its profile - right angle face to the supporting structure?
Not sure I follow? It's just shiplap cladding and we have a disparity re whether the heart side or bark side face the wall in order to have the cupping bring the edges in rather than curling out. My understanding is that a plank will cup out to the bark side so that's the side to have facing in and then any cupping is to the centre where the nails can apply a counter.
See post above, you mentioned feather edge

...but a shiplap profile woul donly have one way as well - tongues uppermost

Edited by Lotobear on Wednesday 12th March 12:07

DonkeyApple

Original Poster:

63,090 posts

185 months

Wednesday 12th March
quotequote all
Lotobear said:
DonkeyApple said:
Lotobear said:
..surely there is only one way to fix a feather edge board due to its profile - right angle face to the supporting structure?
Not sure I follow? It's just shiplap cladding and we have a disparity re whether the heart side or bark side face the wall in order to have the cupping bring the edges in rather than curling out. My understanding is that a plank will cup out to the bark side so that's the side to have facing in and then any cupping is to the centre where the nails can apply a counter.
See post above, you mentioned feather edge

...but a shiplap profile woul donly have one way as well - tongues uppermost

Edited by Lotobear on Wednesday 12th March 12:07
It's featheredge. No idea why I put 'shiplap' in the title! Especially as it's rather obvious which way around shiplap goes. biggrin

DonkeyApple

Original Poster:

63,090 posts

185 months

Wednesday 12th March
quotequote all
Just need to know which way round to set the boards so that cupping is inwards as desired. My view is that it is heart out as planks cup towards the bark side

Lotobear

8,026 posts

144 months

Wednesday 12th March
quotequote all
DonkeyApple said:
Just need to know which way round to set the boards so that cupping is inwards as desired. My view is that it is heart out as planks cup towards the bark side
I depends on how the log has been cut but as I said earlier a feather edge board is always fixed with the ninety degree face against the structure. If fixed the other way it may look odd as the 'tail' of the board would have more of back slope.

If that doesn't concern you then I guess you could try a test and set a couple of boards up in front of a heat source and see how they react.

wolfracesonic

8,255 posts

143 months

Wednesday 12th March
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Agree with Loto here, the face that is 90° to the thick edge goes innermost. You’re right that boards tend to cup away from the centre, though it maybe some are machined so they cup you way you want, others maybe not, not sure how fussy the sawmills are when dealing with feather edge.

StuntCock

109 posts

199 months

Wednesday 12th March
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Allow a decent overlap as it’s surprising how much shrinkage can happen.
And only 1 nail per board else they may well split.