Plasterboard Fixings - Help Needed!

[SK555]

Hello PH'ers - I am need of some advice.

We recently partitioned our utility room to provide us with a separate WC. A stud wall was built with a sliding, barn-style door using a rail like this.

Over time the rail works itself loose and falls out of level, leading to the wheels scraping the wall above. Usual solution is to re-level and retighten but i am looking for a more permanent solution.

The plaster around the fixing has cracked, which i thought i could solve by putting a 40mm washer behind the fixing itself. The cracking has extended to around 50mm (see below), so i think i need to replace the fixing. I have seen the Bullfix range which has wings which will swing out to hold itself behind the plasterboard (like these). These are rated for around 116mm but may be too small for the current hole/crack in the board.


All and any advice is welcome!

[Danns]

On a similar theme to using the proper dot/dab Corefix wall fixings..

Assuming you are going into the stud, something like link below?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stainless-Steel-Hanger-Th...

ETA... but if you are just going into plasterboard... nah I'd say you are on a hiding to nothing with a dynamic load hanging off it.

Edited by Danns on Wednesday 2nd April 13:22

[Promised Land]

I’ve fitted 3 or 4 of these for clients, every time I’ve put an mdf pattress on the wall above the opening then fixed the rail to that, ensures it never works loose, your option is try and find a stud or remove plasterboard on the other side and fit a pattress between the studs where the fixings will go.

Trouble is sometimes you cannot move the rail fixings, hence a pattress on the wall first fixed to studs or pattress or nogging between studs. Latter is more work, mess.

18mm mdf is sufficient.

Remove rail, fit 100mm deep pattress into studs, refit rail, adjust stay on floor to keep the door plumb and in the groove of bottom of door is grooved out.

[allegro]

The loading on the fixings for a door like that will always crush plasterboard with use. deffo need a pattress

[curvature]

Promised Land said:

I’ve fitted 3 or 4 of these for clients, every time I’ve put an mdf pattress on the wall above the opening then fixed the rail to that, ensures it never works loose, your option is try and find a stud or remove plasterboard on the other side and fit a pattress between the studs where the fixings will go.

Trouble is sometimes you cannot move the rail fixings, hence a pattress on the wall first fixed to studs or pattress or nogging between studs. Latter is more work, mess.

18mm mdf is sufficient.

Remove rail, fit 100mm deep pattress into studs, refit rail, adjust stay on floor to keep the door plumb and in the groove of bottom of door is grooved out.

As above.

[Mr Pointy]

OP, look at Geefix:

https://www.geefix.com/
https://www.amazon.co.uk/GeeFix-Plasterboard-Cavit...

If the damage is under 25mm they could do the job but a pattress wold be better.

[119]

I’d be having the builder back to sort that.

[DorsetSparky]

Gripit fixings.

[megaphone]

OP. What is the current fixing? It looks like a normal wood screw, is it already screwing into as stud or a patress? Or through into a solid wall/lintel behind the plasterboard?

No one can advise if they don't know the above.