New oven needing mains supply

New oven needing mains supply

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Discussion

Thundersports

Original Poster:

690 posts

158 months

Yesterday (16:47)
quotequote all
Got a new basic oven unpack it and there's no plug on it. Naturally I don't read the instructions and put a plug on. Then read instructions which says it needs to be connected to the mains....
I've got a seperate isolation swith to oven plug socket and a modern rcd board.
Should I use the oven?

Geffg

1,269 posts

118 months

Yesterday (17:01)
quotequote all
Need to look at the specs and see what rating it is.
Although if came with a flex already connected most of the time they will be ok on a plug.

Thundersports

Original Poster:

690 posts

158 months

Yesterday (17:12)
quotequote all
Electrical Connection
2400 Watt
Fuse Rating
13 amps
Power Requirements
Needs Hard Wiring By An Electrician.

(I didn't read this bit when i bought it doh!)

ChocolateFrog

30,902 posts

186 months

Yesterday (17:18)
quotequote all
Just plugged mine in.

Thundersports

Original Poster:

690 posts

158 months

Yesterday (17:24)
quotequote all
"Yes, you can hardwire a plug-in oven, but it's generally not necessary and may require modifications to the existing circuit. Ovens under 3000 watts can typically be plugged into a standard 13-amp socket, while those above that threshold might require a dedicated hardwired connection. If your oven is designed to be plugged in, it's generally best to leave it that way, as it simplifies the process and ensures safety."

Some info I found.

Rough101

2,569 posts

88 months

Yesterday (17:24)
quotequote all
It’s only 10amps, and ovens are quite intermittent in operation, so unless you are using it commercially, I see no advantage in using a FCU over a plug and socket.

It’s not that long ago that ovens of this rating had a moulded plug.

finlo

3,867 posts

216 months

Yesterday (17:32)
quotequote all
All appliances over 2kw should be hard wired and on a dedicated circuit.

Edited by finlo on Wednesday 30th April 17:41

Belle427

10,238 posts

246 months

Yesterday (17:37)
quotequote all
I think the general rule is if it has no plug fitted it needs hard wiring.

KTMsm

28,489 posts

276 months

Yesterday (18:13)
quotequote all
Essentially it's 400w over the maximum

I suspect you'll be ok with it plugged in but personally I'd remove the socket and wire the oven to it using a large screw connector block

This is how I've wired in an outbuilding that pulls 5,000w occasionally and it hasn't melted yet

essayer

10,051 posts

207 months

Yesterday (18:47)
quotequote all
When you say “oven plug socket” is that a single mains socket behind the oven ? If so, replace this with an unswitched cooker outlet from your usual DIY outlet

Mr Pointy

12,373 posts

172 months

Yesterday (19:20)
quotequote all
Change the 13A 3 pin socket behind the cooker to one of these - note the 45A versions need a deep back box.

https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/fle...

Regbuser

5,265 posts

48 months

Yesterday (19:24)
quotequote all
A word of caution:

If the appliance is wired-in contra to the mfrs instructions, and there's a fire / incident

An insurance loss adjuster will be appointed, and if (likely) they spot this, then forget about an insurance pay out..

davek_964

9,922 posts

188 months

Yesterday (20:01)
quotequote all
Regbuser said:
A word of caution:

If the appliance is wired-in contra to the mfrs instructions, and there's a fire / incident

An insurance loss adjuster will be appointed, and if (likely) they spot this, then forget about an insurance pay out..
Exactly what occurred to me when reading the thread.

Thundersports

Original Poster:

690 posts

158 months

Yesterday (21:21)
quotequote all
Thank you for all for taking the time to reply.

Thundersports

Original Poster:

690 posts

158 months

Yesterday (21:22)
quotequote all
Mr Pointy said:
Change the 13A 3 pin socket behind the cooker to one of these - note the 45A versions need a deep back box.

https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/fle...
I'm going to install one of these.

Used the oven tonight and nothing untoward happened. I guess there's only a fire risk etc when it's drawing a current?

KTMsm

28,489 posts

276 months

Yesterday (21:56)
quotequote all
Thundersports said:
I'm going to install one of these.

Used the oven tonight and nothing untoward happened. I guess there's only a fire risk etc when it's drawing a current?
Yes

If something is rated to be safe at 2KW you can assume it will take double that for a period of time

The telltale sign is a fishy smell - that's the plastic melting biggrin


littleredrooster

5,861 posts

209 months

Yesterday (22:23)
quotequote all
finlo said:
All appliances over 2kw should be hard wired and on a dedicated circuit.

Edited by finlo on Wednesday 30th April 17:41
When did that change, then? My kettle’s 3kw, air-fryer is 2.8, fan heater is 2.5, oil-filled emergency radiator is 3kw…

Mr Pointy

12,373 posts

172 months

Yesterday (23:38)
quotequote all
Thundersports said:
Mr Pointy said:
Change the 13A 3 pin socket behind the cooker to one of these - note the 45A versions need a deep back box.

https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/fle...
I'm going to install one of these.

Used the oven tonight and nothing untoward happened. I guess there's only a fire risk etc when it's drawing a current?
Actually you should probably fit a fused version as the cooker is no longer protected by the fuse in the plug top:
https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/fus...


Purosangue

1,251 posts

26 months

davek_964 said:
Regbuser said:
A word of caution:

If the appliance is wired-in contra to the mfrs instructions, and there's a fire / incident

An insurance loss adjuster will be appointed, and if (likely) they spot this, then forget about an insurance pay out..
Exactly what occurred to me when reading the thread.
this

if your even querying it you need an electrician

mine runs on a dedicated circuit just for the oven



Thundersports

Original Poster:

690 posts

158 months

Mr Pointy said:
Actually you should probably fit a fused version as the cooker is no longer protected by the fuse in the plug top:
https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/fus...
There's a seperate fused switch to isolate the socket for the oven.