New oven needing mains supply
Discussion
Got a new basic oven unpack it and there's no plug on it. Naturally I don't read the instructions and put a plug on. Then read instructions which says it needs to be connected to the mains....
I've got a seperate isolation swith to oven plug socket and a modern rcd board.
Should I use the oven?
I've got a seperate isolation swith to oven plug socket and a modern rcd board.
Should I use the oven?
"Yes, you can hardwire a plug-in oven, but it's generally not necessary and may require modifications to the existing circuit. Ovens under 3000 watts can typically be plugged into a standard 13-amp socket, while those above that threshold might require a dedicated hardwired connection. If your oven is designed to be plugged in, it's generally best to leave it that way, as it simplifies the process and ensures safety."
Some info I found.
Some info I found.
Change the 13A 3 pin socket behind the cooker to one of these - note the 45A versions need a deep back box.
https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/fle...
https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/fle...
Regbuser said:
A word of caution:
If the appliance is wired-in contra to the mfrs instructions, and there's a fire / incident
An insurance loss adjuster will be appointed, and if (likely) they spot this, then forget about an insurance pay out..
Exactly what occurred to me when reading the thread.If the appliance is wired-in contra to the mfrs instructions, and there's a fire / incident
An insurance loss adjuster will be appointed, and if (likely) they spot this, then forget about an insurance pay out..
Mr Pointy said:
Change the 13A 3 pin socket behind the cooker to one of these - note the 45A versions need a deep back box.
https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/fle...
I'm going to install one of these.https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/fle...
Used the oven tonight and nothing untoward happened. I guess there's only a fire risk etc when it's drawing a current?
Thundersports said:
I'm going to install one of these.
Used the oven tonight and nothing untoward happened. I guess there's only a fire risk etc when it's drawing a current?
YesUsed the oven tonight and nothing untoward happened. I guess there's only a fire risk etc when it's drawing a current?
If something is rated to be safe at 2KW you can assume it will take double that for a period of time
The telltale sign is a fishy smell - that's the plastic melting

Thundersports said:
Mr Pointy said:
Change the 13A 3 pin socket behind the cooker to one of these - note the 45A versions need a deep back box.
https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/fle...
I'm going to install one of these.https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/fle...
Used the oven tonight and nothing untoward happened. I guess there's only a fire risk etc when it's drawing a current?
https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/fus...
davek_964 said:
Regbuser said:
A word of caution:
If the appliance is wired-in contra to the mfrs instructions, and there's a fire / incident
An insurance loss adjuster will be appointed, and if (likely) they spot this, then forget about an insurance pay out..
Exactly what occurred to me when reading the thread.If the appliance is wired-in contra to the mfrs instructions, and there's a fire / incident
An insurance loss adjuster will be appointed, and if (likely) they spot this, then forget about an insurance pay out..
if your even querying it you need an electrician
mine runs on a dedicated circuit just for the oven
Mr Pointy said:
Actually you should probably fit a fused version as the cooker is no longer protected by the fuse in the plug top:
https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/fus...
There's a seperate fused switch to isolate the socket for the oven.https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/fus...
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