Leven Techs Cool Running Kit
Discussion
After finally recieving my copy of Sprint , i stumbled across a leaflet advertising a cooling kit from leventechnology, and as you know simon and julie always produce well made stylish components for TVR's ,Has anyone tried the kit comprising of an otter switch, thermostat ,gasket and waterwetter for an excellent price of £43.65 delivered , "Wot" everybody said out loud "thats a bargain", (i thought i'd have to put a plug in for possible discount on a set of alloy indicators),I run waterwetter myself in the car as standard and have noticed a difference in coolant temp, it would interesting to know wot the coolant temps would be with the full kit.
I run this kit in my 5L. Had it fitted by David Batty to cure my concerns on the overheating front. The car doesn't warm up any more slowly, but never shows a temp over 80, even in heavy traffic. Temp gauge used to hover around 90 in traffic before.
She's only ever shown above 80 on the gauge once after the kit was fitted. One of the fans had stopped running due to the standard connector corrosion problem. Temp got to 85 then, but again never above it. Others may have a different opinion to me, but I find this kit works very well. I no longer spend time in traffic with my eyes glues to the temp gauge.
Cheers,
Steve
She's only ever shown above 80 on the gauge once after the kit was fitted. One of the fans had stopped running due to the standard connector corrosion problem. Temp got to 85 then, but again never above it. Others may have a different opinion to me, but I find this kit works very well. I no longer spend time in traffic with my eyes glues to the temp gauge.
Cheers,
Steve
Yep, summer or winter, never gets above 80 now. 65-70 on the move, sometimes a little less when its really cold. Also takes a while to warm up if I go straight into driving on NSL roads.
I'm sure the temp sensor for the gauge gets airflow over it. Why do I think this? After a long run the fans first cut in with the gauge on 70ish. They then cut in an out until the temp gets back up to 80 mark. Anyone else get this kind of behaviour?
Cheers,
Steve.
I'm sure the temp sensor for the gauge gets airflow over it. Why do I think this? After a long run the fans first cut in with the gauge on 70ish. They then cut in an out until the temp gets back up to 80 mark. Anyone else get this kind of behaviour?
Cheers,
Steve.
Steve _T said: Yep, summer or winter, never gets above 80 now. 65-70 on the move, sometimes a little less when its really cold. Also takes a while to warm up if I go straight into driving on NSL roads.
I'm sure the temp sensor for the gauge gets airflow over it. Why do I think this? After a long run the fans first cut in with the gauge on 70ish. They then cut in an out until the temp gets back up to 80 mark. Anyone else get this kind of behaviour?
Cheers,
Steve.
After re-coring my Rad and fitting new ACT pipes allround and smaller reg plate, i have found a difference in guage readings and fan coming on.
while driving in and about 30mph fans cut in about 75 and when stationary cut in at 90ish.
Think its more likely to be a faulty Temp sensor.
BB
I would of thought all this stuff about over cooling and ECU needs, the last thing you should do is have a colder running car. By all means have a lower otter but if you want a reasonable heater, i would stick with the original water stat.Of course if all you do is drive in traffic at 30 mph then it will be fine. Just my thoughts, others will iam sure disagree.
david beer said: I would of thought all this stuff about over cooling and ECU needs, the last thing you should do is have a colder running car. By all means have a lower otter but if you want a reasonable heater, i would stick with the original water stat.Of course if all you do is drive in traffic at 30 mph then it will be fine. Just my thoughts, others will iam sure disagree.
Good point. I got a lower temperature stat last year to reduce the overheating-in-traffic problems over the summer (never actually overheated, but got hot enough to be a worry). Doesn't solve the problem but since the engine starts off cooler it postponed it. But it means the engine runs colder while its moving. Now I've cured the air recirculation which was the root of the problem, I don't need the colder stat and the engine would be better off ten degrees hotter.
Mine are similar to Peters, after all on the bottom hose ie after the rad, its the lack of cooling that turns the fans on to either half speed or full speed. This way if cooling is taking place then no fans are needed.Almost like speed sensitive cooling fans! Peter, 65 stat,not water stat?
Maca, i will send you a relay that relaces the original and will have an LED to show when the fans are on, handy for setting up.
>> Edited by david beer on Sunday 24th November 18:51
Maca, i will send you a relay that relaces the original and will have an LED to show when the fans are on, handy for setting up.
>> Edited by david beer on Sunday 24th November 18:51
I had this kit fitted by Dave Batty as well. Well, I'm not sure about the Water Wetter, but I have th elower temperature thermostat and Otter switch anyway. THe fans now come on at an indicated 80 degC rather than the will-they-won't-they 90+ degC before.
I've had a bit of a history of overheating in my car and this appears to have solved it. The car now runs at or near 80 degC most of the time, certainly not the 65-70 others are experiencing which, to me, sounds a bit on the cool side.
I've had a bit of a history of overheating in my car and this appears to have solved it. The car now runs at or near 80 degC most of the time, certainly not the 65-70 others are experiencing which, to me, sounds a bit on the cool side.
I fitted one of the early [url]www.mod-wise.com[/url] kits and it works well and was a doddle to fit, (15 mins. max.). I don't know if the Leven set-up uses any of Mod-wises parts (David? ) but certainly Mod-wise pioneered the two-speed cooling fan which I have. The system circulates air under the bonnet before the fans cut in at full speed thus generally keeping the under bonnet temps down. 
Rich...
Rich... Recently had ' cool running kit' fitted by Peninsula
same parts as Leven kit (thermostat, fan switch ,water wetter) Kit cost £35 and was charged £25 to fit
Works well reducing general running temp by 10 ish degrees
Am now waiting to have an audible low coolant buzzer but this can wait until spring
same parts as Leven kit (thermostat, fan switch ,water wetter) Kit cost £35 and was charged £25 to fit
Works well reducing general running temp by 10 ish degrees
Am now waiting to have an audible low coolant buzzer but this can wait until spring
pgmvveld said:
Peter,
Can you be a bit more specific on the root of the problem and its cure?
Thanks,
Peter "Dutchperson" (V8S)
Basically in the S series the hot air that is blown out the back of the rad isn't separated from the cold air that is sucked in the front. This means when the car is stationary with the fans on, a lot of hot air gets sucked round the sides of the rad and back into the front. The 'cold' air can easily get up to 70 degrees, which completely knackers your cooling system. The solution is to fully duct the radiator out to the front grill. Which would normally be easy, but was actually quite tricky because of the bonnet design. Can go into the details if you're interested.
Cheers,
Peter Humphries (and a green V8S)
greenv8s said:
Basically in the S series the hot air that is blown out the back of the rad isn't separated from the cold air that is sucked in the front. This means when the car is stationary with the fans on, a lot of hot air gets sucked round the sides of the rad and back into the front. The 'cold' air can easily get up to 70 degrees, which completely knackers your cooling system. The solution is to fully duct the radiator out to the front grill. Which would normally be easy, but was actually quite tricky because of the bonnet design. Can go into the details if you're interested.
Being not technical, I notice while driving no issue at all. Temp rises as soon as stationary traffic occurs. Fan comes in nicely and plenty of fluids. My conclusion: Fan is not up to the job, cold air is not sufficiently dragged through fan and/or hot air is not able to escape.
Someone suggested to get rid of rubber strip at the end of the hood (near front-window) in order to let the warm air escape better. Your view?
Do you have suggestions regarding improving fan cooling capacity, e.g. double fans, higher capacity fan, forcing cold air through radiator/fan etc.?
I had a look at the mod-wise two-stage cooling, but that postpones the problem of high temps IMHO. It does not increase the capacity, so in the end the result will be the same. Do you agree?
Thanks again,
Peter "Dutchperson" and V8S.
Dutch Peter, I had an S3c for 3 1/2 years. OK so the V8S has a different engine but I assume similar air flow characteristics? Yes mine used to get hot but never actually boil-over. The S3c uses a system of swirl tank and overflow tank (this is not an expansion tank so water is not drawn back in as the engine cools). I do not know if this is the same on the V8S but often people would swap the caps around for what seems to be more logical but is actually wrong. You need the pressure cap on the Swirl tank, plain cap on the overflow tank. Also as I said previously I have a mod-wise 2 x stage fan set-up on my Griffith. Yes if you have a cooling problem then I agree you should find the cause of the problem first, but what it does for me is that it circulates the air under the bonnet at an earlier stage, in this way the under bonnet temps’ do not get so hot and the whole engine area keeps a few degrees cooler, with the Griff this is no bad thing. (I'm sure V8Pete will say if I am mixing apples and pears 
) Rich...
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