Engine cleaning, sealing, protection. Advice please

[Superali]

Guys,

I have a 1994 TVR Griffith 500 with needs a good clean in the engine bay. I’m new to detailing but love to keep things clean. In the past I have only given the engine of my cars a quick once-over with a damp cloth. After researching this forum I have learned the correct method.

• Warm the engine
• Wash engine with water, protect vulnerable and electric parts with bags and WD40
• Apply degreaser, leave for a few minutes and agitate areas with a brush.
• Rinse off
• Start engine for a few mins
• Hand Dry or with compressed air with engine off
• apply rubber and vinyl protector

My concern is what about mechanical parts?? After degreasing the engine, do the mechanical parts not need protection/sealing like the rubber and vinyl components?? Is there anything readily available to do this?? Any advice please.

[PJ S]

Actually, don't warm the engine prior to cleaning - the cleaning solution will evaporate its water content, leaving behind mineral deposits, etc.
Use warm water with the degreaser, to make it more effective (SUrfex HD is a definite must, from Bilt Hamber), then rinse off with warm water, if you can.
Make sure to cover the alternator, and other exposed electrical bits.
Once dried off (old towel/compressed air), apply 303 Aerospace Protectant (The Polishing Company is as good a place as any to buy it from), and that's it.
You should have no need to run the engine other than if you're heading out.

[GreenV8S]

PJ S said:

Actually, don't warm the engine prior to cleaning ... Use warm water with the degreaser ... then rinse off with warm water

I'm not into cleaning and polishing but in my limited experience these cleaners work best when warm/hot. If your engine is cold it is pointless trying to use warm solutions to clean it because anything you apply will be cooled down to the engine temperature as soon as it touches the engine.

You probably don't want your engine up to normal running temperature (you'd risk burning yourself if nothing else) but I can see that it might be a good idea to get the engine up to about the same temperature as your cleaning solution.

[PJ S]

GreenV8S said:

PJ S said:

Actually, don't warm the engine prior to cleaning ... Use warm water with the degreaser ... then rinse off with warm water

I'm not into cleaning and polishing but in my limited experience these cleaners work best when warm/hot. If your engine is cold it is pointless trying to use warm solutions to clean it because anything you apply will be cooled down to the engine temperature as soon as it touches the engine.

You probably don't want your engine up to normal running temperature (you'd risk burning yourself if nothing else) but I can see that it might be a good idea to get the engine up to about the same temperature as your cleaning solution.

What you say makes logical sense, but then if you apply the same logic to paintwork cleaning, it should be the same answer.
Alas, it's not due to the Cloud Point of the solution, and in the case of the degreaser, this is no different from regular shampoo or snow foam.

[Superali]

Thanks PJ S,

I find if I wash my black Audi when the weather is warm the surface of the car is too. When applying shampoo (I wash the car half and half) the water evaporates and I’m left with stains on the surface which have to be buffed of latter. Though trying to get suborn stains off with sub zero temperatures here in Glasgow might be a task on a cold engine. Tricky

I’ll go on the hunt for SUrfex HD and 303 Aerospace Protectant. The motor points and garages here seem to have a good selection of Auto Glym products and not much else.

How is the 303 Aerospace Protectant applied? Is it a sprey and walk away product or does it have to be rinsed off also?

Thanks again for your help.

[PJ S]

Superali said:

Thanks PJ S,

I find if I wash my black Audi when the weather is warm the surface of the car is too. When applying shampoo (I wash the car half and half) the water evaporates and I’m left with stains on the surface which have to be buffed of latter. Though trying to get suborn stains off with sub zero temperatures here in Glasgow might be a task on a cold engine. Tricky

I’ll go on the hunt for SUrfex HD and 303 Aerospace Protectant. The motor points and garages here seem to have a good selection of Auto Glym products and not much else.

How is the 303 Aerospace Protectant applied? Is it a sprey and walk away product or does it have to be rinsed off also?

Thanks again for your help.

303 AP is a bit watery, so best wiped on with a microfiber, then left for 10 mins, with a second application applied or just buffed - choice is yours.
The water spotting you find on the paint is what I was referring to potentially happening with even a moderately warm engine.
You can overcome that by final rinsing with demineralised (deionised) water, similar to what the window cleaners use - a resin filled vessel.

[Superali]

Thanks PJ,

youve been a great help. With the christmas holidays coming up, i'll have allot of time to devote to the car and giving it a good scrub down is in the cards.

Cheerz

[Glyn waxmaster]

For a final coat over all the engine`s cables and such use Swissvax Motor Sheen it really is spot on