plumbing question.
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homerjay

Original Poster:

1,249 posts

241 months

Tuesday 10th March 2009
quotequote all
hi all

i have a problem with my heating/water, rads are red hot even when programmer says off, but i have no hot water no matter what my programmer says.

From what others have told me i think my programmer not telling the combi or the diverter valve what to do?

when i turn hot water on, the boiler kicks in and i get hot rads, but no hot water.

when i turn the heating on, the boiler does nothing and i get no heating or hot water

is my programmer faulty or do i have issues with my diverter valve?

i know very little about plumbing, but capable of doing most things myself with a little guidence.

i would get a plumber in, but like an idea beforehand baout whats wrong before he cains me for £500

cheers

Hyperion

16,200 posts

216 months

Tuesday 10th March 2009
quotequote all
It'll be the stepper motor gone in the zone valve. 12.99 from screwfix for a new motor and Bobs your uncle.

ETA: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/28670/Plumbing/Centr...

Edited by Hyperion on Tuesday 10th March 16:04

MkGriff

716 posts

297 months

Tuesday 10th March 2009
quotequote all
The good news is that your radiators are connected to next doors system.

I not entirely sure about the rest.

HTH.

homerjay

Original Poster:

1,249 posts

241 months

Tuesday 10th March 2009
quotequote all
Hyperion said:
It'll be the stepper motor gone in the zone valve. 12.99 from screwfix for a new motor and Bobs your uncle.

ETA: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/28670/Plumbing/Centr...

Edited by Hyperion on Tuesday 10th March 16:04
cheers Hyperion,

not meaning to sound ungrateful in any way, but you 100% certain about this?

is this part of the diverter valve, and is it easy to fit?

thanks again.


UncappedTag

2,102 posts

201 months

Tuesday 10th March 2009
quotequote all
3 port valve?

cramman

659 posts

211 months

Tuesday 10th March 2009
quotequote all
Does sound like the diverter valve to me.
Me dad showed me how mine worked, take the cover of the boiler, turn on the heating and see if it moves, normally, it will be in the heating position as standard/off, then turn on the hot water and see if something moves.
Mine had a thing on the top that went up.

It sounds like it is jammed in heating, but, the other response was alot more confident.

mechsympathy

55,854 posts

271 months

Tuesday 10th March 2009
quotequote all
homerjay said:
is this part of the diverter valve, and is it easy to fit?
I did mine the other day. Sometimes they free up when you wiggle the manual override lever.

homerjay

Original Poster:

1,249 posts

241 months

Tuesday 10th March 2009
quotequote all
woah, i though the diverter valve was seperate to the boiler

this is similar to mine http://www.plumbnation.co.uk/site/drayton-za6-28mm...

although there is a 3 port version, will check whihc i have once i get home tonight.

homerjay

Original Poster:

1,249 posts

241 months

Tuesday 10th March 2009
quotequote all
mechsympathy said:
homerjay said:
is this part of the diverter valve, and is it easy to fit?
I did mine the other day. Sometimes they free up when you wiggle the manual override lever.
hmm, i come across that before, why do they stick, are they meant to move?

Hyperion

16,200 posts

216 months

Tuesday 10th March 2009
quotequote all
They can indeed stick, but that usually happens the first time you switch the rads on after summer...the valve gets jammed with calcium deposits and crud in the system.
If you can move the valve manually, then it's more than likely the motor. It's the cheapest and most likely bit to try first.

You could remove the motor and wire it to a plug to see if it spins, they run off normal 240v mains...don't blame me if you electrocute yourself though.

homerjay

Original Poster:

1,249 posts

241 months

Tuesday 10th March 2009
quotequote all
what about if i cant move the switch?


Ferg

15,242 posts

273 months

Tuesday 10th March 2009
quotequote all
Is it a combination boiler or not?

homerjay

Original Poster:

1,249 posts

241 months

Tuesday 10th March 2009
quotequote all
i always thought it was, but now im not sure.

its a glow worm micron, about 6 years old.

dirkgently

2,160 posts

247 months

Tuesday 10th March 2009
quotequote all
Ferg said:
Is it a combination boiler or not?
I think the answer is 42 biglaugh

Ferg

15,242 posts

273 months

Tuesday 10th March 2009
quotequote all
homerjay said:
i always thought it was, but now im not sure.

its a glow worm micron, about 6 years old.
It's not then.
It's the worst boiler Glow-worm have made in a long time.

Anyway.
2-Port valve or 3-Port valve?

homerjay

Original Poster:

1,249 posts

241 months

Tuesday 10th March 2009
quotequote all
its actually a drayton ma1

2 port i think, due to fact the piece fo paper round the collar has "port a" and "port b" markings.

and i cant move any of the switches on it

Edited by homerjay on Tuesday 10th March 19:18

Ferg

15,242 posts

273 months

Tuesday 10th March 2009
quotequote all
That's a 3 port. (3 pipes going into the body??)
The only thing you should be able to move is the black lever on the END of the grey box. The other two things are an indicator and the release lever.
Try turning the power off at the wall and see if anything moves on the valve....
Then with the power on select hot water and heating seperately then together and see if anything moves.

homerjay

Original Poster:

1,249 posts

241 months

Ferg

15,242 posts

273 months

Tuesday 10th March 2009
quotequote all
I can't open that...LOL!!
I Googled MA1 and it was a three port. confused
How many pipes are joined to the brass bit under the grey box?

pies

13,116 posts

272 months

Tuesday 10th March 2009
quotequote all
Ferg said:
I can't open that...LOL!!
I Googled MA1 and it was a three port. confused
How many pipes are joined to the brass bit under the grey box?
Link says smile


Drayton
Motorised valves
FEATURES
• New “snap-on” actuators can be removed
at the push of a button
• Positive fuel saving control
• 2 Port, diverter and mid-position available
in 22mm, 28mm and 3⁄4" sizes
• 100% tight shut off
• Manual lever and valve position indicator
• Spring return
• Replaceable actuators
• Replaceable motors
• Simple industry-standard wiring
• Easily replaces most makes