HELP !! Annoying problem starting 60 hp 2-stroke Merc'
Discussion
Hello All.
As per title, I have a frustrating problem with a 1990 (ish) 60 hp 2-stroke mercury.
I have recently bought the boat for a song because the engine hasn’t been run for a couple of years, but it was always regularly serviced.
I have connected a battery which stated my 25 hp and this gives enough to ‘try to start it but not to actually do it. It will operate the lift, albeit slowly....!
Next was to get the battery out of the car and connect that, having replaced all the rusty battery terminals with brand new ones., Now this battery is no baby – it starts a 4-litre V8 and has cold-cranking amps rating of 680...
With this battery connected the little cog on the starter motor flicks up (better than with the smaller battery) but as soon as it engages with the fly-wheel, there’s just not enough grunt...
I know it’s not a marine battery but it is a big one and the fact that it won’t try to turn over leads me to think something else it wrong.
The engine is not seized. And ‘looks’ to be very very clean and tidy.
My next plan of action was the following in this order...
1. Check connections on started motor, and positive battery lead at engine end for obvious signs ofa problem which might be affecting the grunt available through increased resistance
2.Buy a serious marine battery – not ideal as I reckon this’ll set me back at least £120
3.Try to jump it from the car - is this a stupid idea?
4.Look at solenoid
5.Call out a pro.
I would be very grateful for any other suggestions from you all, something tells me this is a simple problem and I would think it was the battery, but surely if it starts a 4.0 V8 car it would start a 3 cylinder o/b ??
Many thanks in advance
Regards to all - Nick
As per title, I have a frustrating problem with a 1990 (ish) 60 hp 2-stroke mercury.
I have recently bought the boat for a song because the engine hasn’t been run for a couple of years, but it was always regularly serviced.
I have connected a battery which stated my 25 hp and this gives enough to ‘try to start it but not to actually do it. It will operate the lift, albeit slowly....!
Next was to get the battery out of the car and connect that, having replaced all the rusty battery terminals with brand new ones., Now this battery is no baby – it starts a 4-litre V8 and has cold-cranking amps rating of 680...
With this battery connected the little cog on the starter motor flicks up (better than with the smaller battery) but as soon as it engages with the fly-wheel, there’s just not enough grunt...
I know it’s not a marine battery but it is a big one and the fact that it won’t try to turn over leads me to think something else it wrong.
The engine is not seized. And ‘looks’ to be very very clean and tidy.
My next plan of action was the following in this order...
1. Check connections on started motor, and positive battery lead at engine end for obvious signs ofa problem which might be affecting the grunt available through increased resistance
2.Buy a serious marine battery – not ideal as I reckon this’ll set me back at least £120
3.Try to jump it from the car - is this a stupid idea?
4.Look at solenoid
5.Call out a pro.
I would be very grateful for any other suggestions from you all, something tells me this is a simple problem and I would think it was the battery, but surely if it starts a 4.0 V8 car it would start a 3 cylinder o/b ??
Many thanks in advance
Regards to all - Nick
Silly question but is the starter motor 12v?? I have no idea what voltage / discharge rate marine batteries are rated at but that would be my first question.
Secondly - if the engine has not been run for a long time, its possible that there is an oxide layer on the bores which although not seized will reduce the piston clearance & make it very difficult to turn over. This can be removed with fine wet and dry but will require the head and barrels off.
Jumping it from a running car is likely to f
k the voltage regulator in the alternator if the starter is drawing silly current so I wouldn't advise it.
Steve
Secondly - if the engine has not been run for a long time, its possible that there is an oxide layer on the bores which although not seized will reduce the piston clearance & make it very difficult to turn over. This can be removed with fine wet and dry but will require the head and barrels off.
Jumping it from a running car is likely to f
k the voltage regulator in the alternator if the starter is drawing silly current so I wouldn't advise it.Steve
Edited by Merritt on Thursday 21st May 11:10
Firtly don't even think about going near the bores, most of them are nicasil or similar and shouldn't be touched.
First thing to try is pulling all plug leads off, whip the plugs out and turn it over by hand. You may have to take the flywheel cover off which is no great shakes.
Assuming she turns freely then put it all back together and don't look further. If she's tight then drop some 2 stroke oil down the bores and turn her over a few times, leave it a while and try again.
I'm willing to bet though that you just have a bad connection on the starter motor or ground. Track the two battery leads down and trace them to the points of connection on the motor. clean those thoroughly and put back. Try again. If this doesn't solve the problem then trace the solenoid cables back and check all connections there. If still no joy then try shorting the starter straight with a set of jump leads.
If that doesn't work then take the starter apart and check the bushes but more importantly the bush springs, they have a tendency on marine engines to get sticky and not place any pressure on the spring itself.
If all that doesn't work sell it!
First thing to try is pulling all plug leads off, whip the plugs out and turn it over by hand. You may have to take the flywheel cover off which is no great shakes.
Assuming she turns freely then put it all back together and don't look further. If she's tight then drop some 2 stroke oil down the bores and turn her over a few times, leave it a while and try again.
I'm willing to bet though that you just have a bad connection on the starter motor or ground. Track the two battery leads down and trace them to the points of connection on the motor. clean those thoroughly and put back. Try again. If this doesn't solve the problem then trace the solenoid cables back and check all connections there. If still no joy then try shorting the starter straight with a set of jump leads.
If that doesn't work then take the starter apart and check the bushes but more importantly the bush springs, they have a tendency on marine engines to get sticky and not place any pressure on the spring itself.
If all that doesn't work sell it!
MOTORVATOR said:
Firtly don't even think about going near the bores, most of them are nicasil or similar and shouldn't be touched.
First thing to try is pulling all plug leads off, whip the plugs out and turn it over by hand. You may have to take the flywheel cover off which is no great shakes.
Assuming she turns freely then put it all back together and don't look further. If she's tight then drop some 2 stroke oil down the bores and turn her over a few times, leave it a while and try again.
I'm willing to bet though that you just have a bad connection on the starter motor or ground. Track the two battery leads down and trace them to the points of connection on the motor. clean those thoroughly and put back. Try again. If this doesn't solve the problem then trace the solenoid cables back and check all connections there. If still no joy then try shorting the starter straight with a set of jump leads.
If that doesn't work then take the starter apart and check the bushes but more importantly the bush springs, they have a tendency on marine engines to get sticky and not place any pressure on the spring itself.
If all that doesn't work sell it!
Yep was the boat moored afloat whilst stored?First thing to try is pulling all plug leads off, whip the plugs out and turn it over by hand. You may have to take the flywheel cover off which is no great shakes.
Assuming she turns freely then put it all back together and don't look further. If she's tight then drop some 2 stroke oil down the bores and turn her over a few times, leave it a while and try again.
I'm willing to bet though that you just have a bad connection on the starter motor or ground. Track the two battery leads down and trace them to the points of connection on the motor. clean those thoroughly and put back. Try again. If this doesn't solve the problem then trace the solenoid cables back and check all connections there. If still no joy then try shorting the starter straight with a set of jump leads.
If that doesn't work then take the starter apart and check the bushes but more importantly the bush springs, they have a tendency on marine engines to get sticky and not place any pressure on the spring itself.
If all that doesn't work sell it!
Before getting really serious it might be worth checking ALL the heavy duty wiring in the "power" circuit to completely eliminate any voltage drops or hotspots at connections. IS IT REALLY 12v or 24v, go back and re-establish exactly what requirements you need.
good fun this stuff as long as the PM isn't the problem.
as above really, remove plugs etc make sure it does actually turn over by hand then check and clean all the connections.
the fun starts once its turning over by key and not starting then its testing stator, coils, leads etc etc
check the fuel pump as merc revamped this to a better design £88 for the kit of pipes pump etc well worth it.
also take off the carbs check there havnt got old gel'd up fuel in as this will just block you up and run rough easy to do
J
the fun starts once its turning over by key and not starting then its testing stator, coils, leads etc etc
check the fuel pump as merc revamped this to a better design £88 for the kit of pipes pump etc well worth it.
also take off the carbs check there havnt got old gel'd up fuel in as this will just block you up and run rough easy to do
J
If it turns over and has not had the fuel drained out of the carbs when last run i will almost guaranty it will be blocked jets.Fuel will gum up but if there has been any water in the fuel and it has got stuck in the base of the float it can lead to bigger carb issues than just a clean.
Thanks to all for the replies - After a phone call to a specialist, he diagnosed the fault over the phone as a starter motor in need of reconditioning. When he visited the boat he took the motor away, and did the work. Now it's re-fitted with a new proper leisure battery, she's running like a dream...
Cheers all - Nick.
Cheers all - Nick.
NicoG said:
Thanks to all for the replies - After a phone call to a specialist, he diagnosed the fault over the phone as a starter motor in need of reconditioning. When he visited the boat he took the motor away, and did the work. Now it's re-fitted with a new proper leisure battery, she's running like a dream...
Cheers all - Nick.
I was going to suggest the starter internal terminals will be grotted up. I've had the same on a big V8 motor, hooked up 2 good batteries, and it still acted like they were flat. I stripped the starter motor, cleaned up the gunged terminals on the internal contactor, and away it went.Cheers all - Nick.
A proper leisure battery? What's that then? oh, you mean a 12 volt battery, like you fit to a car, but at the twice the price because you get it in a yacht chandlery.
King Herald said:
A proper leisure battery? What's that then? oh, you mean a 12 volt battery, like you fit to a car, but at the twice the price because you get it in a yacht chandlery.
Not quite. A normal car battery is designed for high load ouput to crank the engine , and then be charged rapidly again by the cars alternator. It is not designed to be run flat ..and then recharged by a home battery charger A leisure battery is designed to power electrical appliances and it can be run flat and recharged .. it is not designed to be high output to crank an engine.
Your ideal setup would be a one of each ... the leisure battery powering the Electronics and the Starter car battery to crank the engine
These can be charged simultaneously be a split charging unit or (although this is a lot more expensive) an intelligent split charging unit which will always ensure your starter battery is charged, before it charges the leisure battery
slow_poke said:
King Herald said:
A proper leisure battery? What's that then? oh, you mean a 12 volt battery, like you fit to a car, but at the twice the price because you get it in a yacht chandlery.
Not quite. A normal car battery is designed for high load ouput to crank the engine , and then be charged rapidly again by the cars alternator. It is not designed to be run flat ..and then recharged by a home battery charger A leisure battery is designed to power electrical appliances and it can be run flat and recharged .. it is not designed to be high output to crank an engine.
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