wooden flooring
Discussion
Just about to lay wooden flooring in the lounge, it's parawood flooring, and have laid it in two other rooms so far, a lot smaller in area though.
The first was in the study, and I used the sticky back underlay to fit it with, this was a real pain, and I vowed never to use it again.
Second room was about the same size, but I used adhesive, a lot easier and more forgiving, and gave you time to position the wood where you want it, but, the planks were quite wide, (195mm), and they actually bowed across the width, ( I believe this was due to the moisture in the adhesive ), and after reading the instructions on the tin, it said not to glue planks any wider than 6", DOH!
Anyway, they did settle back down eventually, so, my question is, what other method would you guys use, it's a concrete floor, and it's an old cottage, so head room is not great, therefore not enough room to lay battens.
Room size is approx. 5mx4m.
Thanx.
The first was in the study, and I used the sticky back underlay to fit it with, this was a real pain, and I vowed never to use it again.
Second room was about the same size, but I used adhesive, a lot easier and more forgiving, and gave you time to position the wood where you want it, but, the planks were quite wide, (195mm), and they actually bowed across the width, ( I believe this was due to the moisture in the adhesive ), and after reading the instructions on the tin, it said not to glue planks any wider than 6", DOH!
Anyway, they did settle back down eventually, so, my question is, what other method would you guys use, it's a concrete floor, and it's an old cottage, so head room is not great, therefore not enough room to lay battens.
Room size is approx. 5mx4m.
Thanx.
If its concrete sub floor you need to "float" the floor. Which means DPM and high quality underlay 6-10mm thick and then gluing the boards together with a suitable adhesive.
All of which should come after a lot of self leveling compound has been poured to even the floor. I've replaced too many floors, laid by idiots who thought a dpm and some extra cheap underlay would solve the problem of uneven creaky floors.
All of which should come after a lot of self leveling compound has been poured to even the floor. I've replaced too many floors, laid by idiots who thought a dpm and some extra cheap underlay would solve the problem of uneven creaky floors.
Looking on Google at a few suppliers of this product it looks like they suggest you use the self adhesive underlay, but most of them supply 160mm not the 195mm you have.
Is yours 15mm thick? If it is then putting it onto a batten isnt an option as its not structural, plus you have the height issue you mentioned.
I also assume it a 3 or 4 strip floor?
Nick
Is yours 15mm thick? If it is then putting it onto a batten isnt an option as its not structural, plus you have the height issue you mentioned.
I also assume it a 3 or 4 strip floor?
Nick
It's 3 strip flooring.
Done a fair amount of googling myself today, they all seem to say about battens and DPMembrane, this would mean either nailing or fully floating.
The battens is a non starter, due to height restrictions, plus it would mean tiny little trips, (steps), to other rooms off the lounge, and I didn't think you could just glue the edges of real wood floors.
Maybe the answer is to go for narrower planks and glue them directly to the floor?
Done a fair amount of googling myself today, they all seem to say about battens and DPMembrane, this would mean either nailing or fully floating.
The battens is a non starter, due to height restrictions, plus it would mean tiny little trips, (steps), to other rooms off the lounge, and I didn't think you could just glue the edges of real wood floors.
Maybe the answer is to go for narrower planks and glue them directly to the floor?
I installed an Oak floor in my living room 2 years ago (we have concrete floors too) and ended up buying Engineered Wood flooring that clicks together like the laminate stuff, but with a real Oak surface (oiled in our case, with bevelled edges to make it look as little like laminate as possible). It was actually more expensive than buying solid Oak flooring that you nail/glue down, but after two years still looks perfect.
I got it from this place: http://www.flooringsupplies.co.uk/
I haven't got a photobucket account, but you can see my lving room/home cinema thread over on the AVForums that I posted at the time: http://www.avforums.com/forums/members-home-cinema...
(Flooring posts on page 2 of the thread, with some other close ups of the skirting on the next page).
I got it from this place: http://www.flooringsupplies.co.uk/
I haven't got a photobucket account, but you can see my lving room/home cinema thread over on the AVForums that I posted at the time: http://www.avforums.com/forums/members-home-cinema...
(Flooring posts on page 2 of the thread, with some other close ups of the skirting on the next page).
Yep, engineered flooring is often more expensive that solid, but its more stable & as a result can be laid as a floating floor.
But the OP has his flooring & is trying to work out how to fix it without having to buy a new floor.
I cant remeber their name, but the biggest internet supplier of flooring in the UK went tits up a couple of weeks ago...its a bit tough out there at the moment!
Nick
But the OP has his flooring & is trying to work out how to fix it without having to buy a new floor.
I cant remeber their name, but the biggest internet supplier of flooring in the UK went tits up a couple of weeks ago...its a bit tough out there at the moment!
Nick
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