Engine tick over.
Discussion
Steve,
I agree, run the engine for a minute-ish at 1500 and that might solve the problem due to the cold. Thats what a TVR engineer told me.
I have the opposite problem, mine has recent started ticking over between 1000 & 1100...now what does that mean??
Alan.
>> Edited by Alf Essex on Thursday 19th February 08:06
I agree, run the engine for a minute-ish at 1500 and that might solve the problem due to the cold. Thats what a TVR engineer told me.
I have the opposite problem, mine has recent started ticking over between 1000 & 1100...now what does that mean??
Alan.
>> Edited by Alf Essex on Thursday 19th February 08:06
My mechanic has said if you get out and listen to the exhausts when idling at 500 rpm, if one is making a pop pop popping noise, then dont drive it as one cylinder might be down. Tuscans are set usually at 700 rpm or 900-1000 if air con. He said best to get it checked at dealer.
>> Edited by lady topaz on Thursday 19th February 13:36
>> Edited by lady topaz on Thursday 19th February 13:36
salty-nlv said:
probably due to the cold the temp sensor's are forcing engine to tick over slightly higher.
I thought these engines didn't have any sort of cold running gizmos - hence the manual saying to hold revs at 1500 for 30 seconds when cold.
As long as there's no faults tick over is a doddle to adjust. Pop off the main bonnet then locate the throttle cable between throtle bodies 3 & 4. Adjust the screw which stops the throttle bodies closing completely (it's pretty obvious which one it is) until the desired tickover (with a warm engine) is achieved. I set mine to 900 due to occasional stalling with headlights, aircon, PAS etc being used. Seems fine like that.
What ever you do DO NOT adjust the screws on the individual throttle bodies as this will really throw out the balance.
As mentioned before, check the airbox is not cracked at the joints as this does not help (and they DO crack!!)
Alan, no worries. As Rick says, it is easy to overcome this. In practice this will however mean that your power and torque curve has shifted to lower revs. This means, the higher your idle speed, the lower your maximum amount of revs and hence more power down low.
If this gets worse, you will notice that whenever the gear change lights blink, you will shift earlier. So you might have the tendency to rev into the "red zone", based on the gear change lights.
My girlfriend's VW Golf II 1.8 idles at 2000. In that car you can really feel that the car just doesn't pull past the 6000 revs, while the limit is normally 7000. (Sometimes idles at 3000 revs
)
Greetings, hope this made some things clear.
Peter
>> Edited by Waveboy14 on Thursday 19th February 19:03
If this gets worse, you will notice that whenever the gear change lights blink, you will shift earlier. So you might have the tendency to rev into the "red zone", based on the gear change lights.
My girlfriend's VW Golf II 1.8 idles at 2000. In that car you can really feel that the car just doesn't pull past the 6000 revs, while the limit is normally 7000. (Sometimes idles at 3000 revs
) Greetings, hope this made some things clear.
Peter
>> Edited by Waveboy14 on Thursday 19th February 19:03
Err...if your idle has changed a lot I would get it checked out by a dealer. Low idle == tappet adjustment normally. Alf's problem could be the temperature sensor or a lambda sensor gone wrong. The temperature sensor is used by the ECU to adjust the map depending on engine temp. At very cold, the timing is retarded until it warms up. Holding the revs at 1500 for 30 seconds helps warms the plugs up so ignition is better.
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