A bush problem maybe?

A bush problem maybe?

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Discussion

Dave350iTVR

Original Poster:

126 posts

269 months

Tuesday 9th April 2002
quotequote all
Similar to the problem I had previous with the anti-roll bar bushes on the nearside; I now seem to be getting similar horrible sounds coming from the front central part of the car. With the anti-roll bar bush problem I used to get a clonking sound when turning into a corner. The noise I get now occurs when starting off, slowing down or accelerating away. Would this reflect a change in the compliance or wishbone bushes being required? Or is this a more serious problem?
The noise can be re-created by jacking the car up from the front but I can't work out where the problem actually is.

>>> Edited by Dave350iTVR on Tuesday 9th April 09:02

JMorgan

36,010 posts

285 months

Tuesday 9th April 2002
quotequote all
Unless you have access to a ramp, I used to look for anoying clonks by putting the front on axle stands, jack the hub up to normal height and waggle things. Turned out most of my bushes were nadgered.

Dave350iTVR

Original Poster:

126 posts

269 months

Tuesday 9th April 2002
quotequote all
So does this sound like a bush problem?

Dave350iTVR

Original Poster:

126 posts

269 months

Tuesday 9th April 2002
quotequote all
Just spoken to Richard at Wedge Automotive - he says the this problem is down to compliance bushes. Apartly these are easy to fit - has anyone done this themselves? How many bushes are we talking about? How would you recommend doing this?

JMorgan

36,010 posts

285 months

Tuesday 9th April 2002
quotequote all
I did and found it quite easy (with the odd tight fit) but changed the drop link and leading link bushes as well. Need to get geometry checked after though. Steves bible and a granada manual all helped (Steves for prep and haynes for getting dirty under the car, must keep bible clean).

Dave350iTVR

Original Poster:

126 posts

269 months

Tuesday 9th April 2002
quotequote all
Which Haynes granada mannual would you recommend getting.

JMorgan

36,010 posts

285 months

Tuesday 9th April 2002
quotequote all
I picked the one that covered the cars year, sept 77 to feb 1985 for my 83 model.
ISBN 1850101736
And I bought a Jag one but that was before the bible.

>> Edited by JMorgan on Tuesday 9th April 16:07

Dave350iTVR

Original Poster:

126 posts

269 months

Tuesday 9th April 2002
quotequote all
Is it likely to be different on a series II 88 model?

JMorgan

36,010 posts

285 months

Tuesday 9th April 2002
quotequote all
Havn't a clue but it looks identical to my 400 1990. Hub looks different though.

Dave350iTVR

Original Poster:

126 posts

269 months

Tuesday 9th April 2002
quotequote all
I don't suppose you have a scanner do you Jeff? As the chapter or pages regarding replacing the compliance bushes would be very useful. How many bushes are there in the kit?
Cheers, Dave.

>> Edited by Dave350iTVR on Tuesday 9th April 17:48

mytvr

1,204 posts

266 months

Tuesday 9th April 2002
quotequote all
Hi Dave
You should get 4 bushes in a compliance or tie bar kit. Two for each side (surprise surprise cilla)and they are a doddle to fit. Undo the large nut at the front of the tie bar, count the number of turns so as to get a rough setting when you refit or the caster will be acres out. undo the two nuts and bolts at the wishbone end where the bar fits to the wishbone and lower ball joint. Drop the bar down, replace bushes and washers etc. Refit and get the caster angle checked. Nothing to it !!!!
Regards Another Dave with 350i with new bushes

JMorgan

36,010 posts

285 months

Tuesday 9th April 2002
quotequote all
Hows about this, you can download sections for 3 quid.
www.haynes.co.uk/inc/mt_manuals.asp

Dave350iTVR

Original Poster:

126 posts

269 months

Tuesday 9th April 2002
quotequote all
I have had a good look under the car this evening aided with the wedge bible and comments from the guys here. The tie rod or leading link has about 5mm left on the chassis mounting bushes, I take it that is why i'm getting these horrible sounds when I drive along? I had the anti-roll bar and drop link bushes replaced a couple of months back.

JMorgan

36,010 posts

285 months

Tuesday 9th April 2002
quotequote all
Are they the standard ford parts? Orange were the ones I bought but went for Wedge Auto nylon ones. Also there is a steel tube spacer under all that.

Dave350iTVR

Original Poster:

126 posts

269 months

Tuesday 9th April 2002
quotequote all
I have got PowerFlex on the anti-roll bar part but these others on the leading link (tie rod) look like they have seen better days. How wide should the bush look? A lot more than 5mm?

JMorgan

36,010 posts

285 months

Tuesday 9th April 2002
quotequote all
I can't remember exactly but the wedge nylon ones were a bit slimmer. If I can find the ford bits (only moved 8 months ago and still can't find every thing) will give it a measure, not sure how much they compress though but are a bit spongy.
Also there are 2 washers involved, a thin one and thick one. When I did mine the thin one was almost rusted away, used copper ease on the rebuild

>> Edited by JMorgan on Tuesday 9th April 22:07

Dave350iTVR

Original Poster:

126 posts

269 months

Tuesday 9th April 2002
quotequote all
The only thing that bothers me now is the castor angles issue, as mentioned by yourself and Dave (mytvr). What the hell is that all about and how do you get it checked? I hope I'm not barking up the wrong tree with these compliance bushes. Although Richard Thorpe seemed convinced from my description of the problem that this was a compliance bush problem.

>> Edited by Dave350iTVR on Tuesday 9th April 22:22

JMorgan

36,010 posts

285 months

Tuesday 9th April 2002
quotequote all
I think its worth doing (don't take me to court if it goes t!ts up )
I found a good improvement on the front end. Find a loacal garage that has the gear (its ford after all) and get the stats (don't have them at the mo) and ask them to check and adjust.
£40 odd quid if memory serves me.
Never had a problem with Wedge. Always there for a chat (I had spent a load of money with him) and always spot on with advice.
Just get a marker pen and mark where the threads are and you will be close then get the garage to adjust to proper. (Steve jumps in here and tell me I' wrong?)

Dave350iTVR

Original Poster:

126 posts

269 months

Tuesday 9th April 2002
quotequote all
As much as it would be a sense of achievement to fix it myself, I might be better off just taking Tamsin to Wedge and being done with it! At least a professional will get the job right first time, also do the castor geometry alignment and ensure nothing else has been missed. For the 1 & 1/2 hr journey it takes to get to Sheffield, it might be my best option. Considering the extra cost involved in paying for delivery of the parts and the ford garage after check cost. Just feels like I'm whimping out!

JMorgan

36,010 posts

285 months

Tuesday 9th April 2002
quotequote all
You might be right there. Had the car at the local blue oval for a look see if they could do the ball joints.
How do you know its (insert word for blue oval). Cos its got (insert word for blue oval) stamped on it. Which model is asked, I reply take it off and go to your parts, probably Granada and look see. What a waste. Local to where I live now and I took a Vixen in with an engine problem (blue oval again) and they were excellent. Spot on and sorted the problem.
Adjustments however were with a small private firm on a local industrial estate at the time.
I would have gone to Wedge as well but strapped for cash at the time. At least you know its done right if you go down that road. Also specialists tend to spot other probs.....
Which is a good thing cos you know as local garage might not.

>> Edited by JMorgan on Tuesday 9th April 22:58