Running problems with Lucas L (flapper 4CU) injection system
Discussion
I have just brought a TVR (wedge 350i)
It is not running very well, does not tickover (hunting and stalling)
does not rev very well did not like going over 2500rpm most of the time
sometimes would rev ok
has had an auto electrician test it and all sensors are working, diagnosed as faulty ecu plug or ecu
ecu plug has been cut off and spade ends fitted, was told this fixed the problem
however it has not fixed the problem, still the same!
I have now replaced the ecu plug wiring and changed the ecu (been told these were working) yes you guessed it no difference!!!
HELP!!!!
It is not running very well, does not tickover (hunting and stalling)
does not rev very well did not like going over 2500rpm most of the time
sometimes would rev ok
has had an auto electrician test it and all sensors are working, diagnosed as faulty ecu plug or ecu
ecu plug has been cut off and spade ends fitted, was told this fixed the problem
however it has not fixed the problem, still the same!
I have now replaced the ecu plug wiring and changed the ecu (been told these were working) yes you guessed it no difference!!!
HELP!!!!
I bought a 280i in july this year and that had a new fuel pump,Filter,Plugs,Leads,Rotor arm,Dizzy cap,(all in the ad)But had sat for a number of years prior to this and one of the fuel tanks were rusty un-beknown to me..It contaminated the filter,pump,warm up reg,fuel metering head,injectors,and was a nightmare..The car would run but on uphill would not..would stall..start..non-start..I checked timing,firng order,new plugs again,new filter again,another rotor arm,another cap,2xcoils but all this was in vain,I hope it is not a fuel issue as by driving it i made mine worst..I had a friend who knows the car inside out and he was saying its a KV fault..But all along it was fuel,The guys on here were more than helpfull with what it could be but even then it was stabbing in the dark..I would try to find out if the car has sat even for a couple of years as thats sometimes enough to contaminate the fuel..Try to get a sample in a jar to see if any fleck or rust is present..Injectors sometimes need a clean if they havent been done before..Is there any ticking or blowing near heads or manifolds..hopefully its not gasket related..Or cylinders or valves..Ill try to gather all the suggestions that were given to me to try and im sure someone with the same car will be along to assist soon..Zig
Lots of things that could be:
-ignition amplifier knackered. It sits on the side of the dizzy body and its health is critical to getting a good fat spark. The car will run like a bag of spanners if it is ailing, and they do.
-Bad connection or fault within the power resistor pack on the passenger side inner wing. This connects in series with the injector banks and have been known to develop intermittent faults.
-Scratchy throttle pot. This would be worst during throttle pedal movements and revving just off idle.
-Dry joints in the ECU output transistor connections to the PCB. Would need resoldering or at least the relevant joints reflowing.
-Knackered air flow meter. Sometimes the carbon track wears out in the meter and it gives erratic air flow signals to the ecu.
-I had an interesting fault one day - turned out one of the fuel pump fuse terminals had pulled out of the back of the fuse block, and vibrations / shocks were momentarily disconnecting the fuel pump, making it lose power and eventually it got the a
hole and wouldnt start. Clicked the terminal back in and no more problems!
-Engine earths. Important because any voltage drop in the earth connections will result in an apparent drop in signals as seen by the ECU. Especially bad if the earth resistances are varying with engine vibrations etc.
All of these are fairly common causes of a 4CU running badly. I've not bothered to point the finger at sensors since your sparky has already given them a clean bill of health.
-ignition amplifier knackered. It sits on the side of the dizzy body and its health is critical to getting a good fat spark. The car will run like a bag of spanners if it is ailing, and they do.
-Bad connection or fault within the power resistor pack on the passenger side inner wing. This connects in series with the injector banks and have been known to develop intermittent faults.
-Scratchy throttle pot. This would be worst during throttle pedal movements and revving just off idle.
-Dry joints in the ECU output transistor connections to the PCB. Would need resoldering or at least the relevant joints reflowing.
-Knackered air flow meter. Sometimes the carbon track wears out in the meter and it gives erratic air flow signals to the ecu.
-I had an interesting fault one day - turned out one of the fuel pump fuse terminals had pulled out of the back of the fuse block, and vibrations / shocks were momentarily disconnecting the fuel pump, making it lose power and eventually it got the a
hole and wouldnt start. Clicked the terminal back in and no more problems!-Engine earths. Important because any voltage drop in the earth connections will result in an apparent drop in signals as seen by the ECU. Especially bad if the earth resistances are varying with engine vibrations etc.
All of these are fairly common causes of a 4CU running badly. I've not bothered to point the finger at sensors since your sparky has already given them a clean bill of health.
This sounds familiar; wasn't Gerry Attrick saying something similar only a couple of days back?Check the basics first, even 'auto electricians' miss some of the fundamentals.
The places I would start would be the throttle positions sensor, check the voltage on the return using a digital multimeter it should be 0.325 to 4.2 volts without any jumping. Check the engine temperature sender is working and that the the following resistance is seen
TEMP.......OHMS........TEMP........OHMS
-10°C...9100-9300....60°C.......500-700
0°C.......5700-5900....80°C.......300-400
20°C.....2400-2600....100°C....150-200
40°C.....1100-1300
Check the timing is correct and that the advance is working, the air flow meter can be checked but is slightly more tricky - maybe worth getting the wedge bible very useful.
If you need any information I would be happy to forward, most issues are usually down to very simple and basic items, including simply bad earths etc.
The places I would start would be the throttle positions sensor, check the voltage on the return using a digital multimeter it should be 0.325 to 4.2 volts without any jumping. Check the engine temperature sender is working and that the the following resistance is seen
TEMP.......OHMS........TEMP........OHMS
-10°C...9100-9300....60°C.......500-700
0°C.......5700-5900....80°C.......300-400
20°C.....2400-2600....100°C....150-200
40°C.....1100-1300
Check the timing is correct and that the advance is working, the air flow meter can be checked but is slightly more tricky - maybe worth getting the wedge bible very useful.
If you need any information I would be happy to forward, most issues are usually down to very simple and basic items, including simply bad earths etc.
keatsie said:
Check the basics first, even 'auto electricians' miss some of the fundamentals.
The places I would start would be the throttle positions sensor, check the voltage on the return using a digital multimeter it should be 0.325 to 4.2 volts without any jumping. Check the engine temperature sender is working and that the the following resistance is seen
TEMP.......OHMS........TEMP........OHMS
-10°C...9100-9300....60°C.......500-700
0°C.......5700-5900....80°C.......300-400
20°C.....2400-2600....100°C....150-200
40°C.....1100-1300
Check the timing is correct and that the advance is working, the air flow meter can be checked but is slightly more tricky - maybe worth getting the wedge bible very useful.
If you need any information I would be happy to forward, most issues are usually down to very simple and basic items, including simply bad earths etc.
Hmmmm... the 4CU system is not that fussy about the throttle pot and will actually run quite well with it disconnected so I'd be surprised if it caused the lack of power described. It might well show up as poor 'foot-down' acceleration but the car should still be quite driveable otherwise, it certainly wouldn't limit top speed.The places I would start would be the throttle positions sensor, check the voltage on the return using a digital multimeter it should be 0.325 to 4.2 volts without any jumping. Check the engine temperature sender is working and that the the following resistance is seen
TEMP.......OHMS........TEMP........OHMS
-10°C...9100-9300....60°C.......500-700
0°C.......5700-5900....80°C.......300-400
20°C.....2400-2600....100°C....150-200
40°C.....1100-1300
Check the timing is correct and that the advance is working, the air flow meter can be checked but is slightly more tricky - maybe worth getting the wedge bible very useful.
If you need any information I would be happy to forward, most issues are usually down to very simple and basic items, including simply bad earths etc.
s1v8esprit said:
TVR (wedge 350i) It is not running very well, does not tickover (hunting and stalling) does not rev very well did not like going over 2500rpm most of the time
sometimes would rev ok
The primary causes (over 80%) of problems on the 3.5 Flapper 4CU Efi system is air leaks into the plenum plus connection issues around the Efi wiring loom, including the ECU connector. In that respect the AE was right to suggest the ECU connector as a cause, hopefully though, the previous butchering has not made matters worse. sometimes would rev ok
A more recent cause of problems similar to what you describe is fuel tank contamination due to the ravages of time and modern fuel cleansing additives stripping stuff of the fuel tank innards, leading to crudded filters and pump.
Wherever you ask the question, such as here or (I see it also) on the tvr wedge pages, you will get loads of scattergun and anecdotal suggestions as to the cause, and if you are very lucky, one of them will hit the probem on the head, but sadly, youll probably win a tenner on the lottery before that happens.
Because you are using an AE, one assumes you may nott have the necessary diagnostic skills to tackle this yourself. Hopefully though you can handle simple instruments and carry out basic tasks when they are clearly laid out?
To that end I recommend the following 15 point health check designed specifically for the Rover SD1 Efi system pretty much the same as yours.
15 POINT HEALTH CHECK
Assuming the engine is in good mechanical condition with correct cam and lifter performance and timing, good compression within acceptable limits on all eight cylinders, good exhaust system with no leaks and fresh lubrication plus clean filters, then these 15 easy steps should seek out any health problems with the Rover SD1 Efi V8 system to improve performance from its current condition.
1 Clean all ignition components externally and internally, spray with moisture inhibitor such as WD40 and wipe dry. Ensure the distributor vacuum and mechanical advance mechanisms are lightly lubricated, working correctly and the springs/bob weights are free of any corrosion.
2 Check security and eliminate any corrosion on all ignition Low Tension connections right back to the ignition switch, including all local earth connections. Get some ideas here:
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Download...
3 Clean and re-gap the spark plugs - replace if necessary.
4 Check for damaged or out of specification (measured suppression resistance) High Tension leads, Pay particular attention to the rubber boots. Clean and replace if necessary.
5 Set ignition timing to just eliminate pinking with normally available fuel. See here for a neat process.
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Snippets...
(Note: Items 1-5 are to guarantee and maximise the best possible spark at exactly the right time. Check workshop manual for recommended component and timing specifications.)
6 Ensure the plenum idle air gallery is clear and not contaminated with goo.
7 Thoroughly clean the plenum breather gallery, flame trap and LH rocker cover breather filter
8 Ensure the throttle disc(s) is correctly seated at idle (or set to the recommended disc to tunnel gap where specified) to prevent "idle speed hang-up" and that the whole throttle mechanism is free of unwanted friction right through from accelerator pedal to throttle pot. (Note - items 6-8 are best performed by taking the Plenum Chamber to the workbench). Go here for Plenum Solutions.
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Rover_Te...
9 Set the AFM CO content to the recommended range erring just on the weak side of the mid-point. If a CO meter is not immediately available set the adjuster screw to 2.5 turns out, from fully home. See here for AFM stuff.
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Rover_Te...
Reset idle speed to the recommended level. The settings are interactive so recheck both.
10 Set the Throttle Position Sensor residual voltage to 325mv (some spec's call for 350mv). Ensure the sensor is not electrically noisy, causing random overfuelling. See here for full detail.
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Rover_Te...
11 Verify the fuel pressure operates in the range 26 to 36 psi. not more, not less. Details here:
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Rover_Te...
12 Test the integrity of the plenum and all its air/vacuum hoses for rogue air-leaks. How To here:
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Rover_Te...
13 Check all Efi loom wiring/connections for faults/corrosion including the Efi engine earth AND the engine earth strap. Unusual Efi Earthing Issues here:
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Snippets...
14 Check and replace air and fuel filters if necessary. Ensure fuel tank is not generating crud.
15 Because the Plenum must be removed for proper cleaning and adjustment, lift and service the injectors, replacing filter baskets, pintle caps, fuel pipes and injector to manifold seals. See here:
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Rover_Te...
If you persevered thus far, and are still reading you are also probably thinking "Oh Shoot" and that might very well depend upon the depth of your pocket versus the extent of your workshop skills.
However, virtually all of the above program and the extensive list of links to downloadable and printable PDF's will ask you to depend only upon common sense, the use of basic tools, a multimeter and perhaps a fuel pressure gauge.
Another problem you will face is the one of "Basic Understanding" of the RV8 Efi Flapper System but please be assured - it is not rocket science - and with just a modicum of basic knowledge, the average owner/enthusiast can learn it given the right reading material in an owner/reader friendly format.
To that end you may wish to consider this:
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Download...
Highly recommended, of course!
Sometimes when asking new owner/enthusiasts to deal with their issues as I recommend it sometimes overlooks the obvious original request as in the below quote.
s1v8esprit said:
It is not running very well, does not tickover (hunting and stalling)
Its just possible therefore that the following linked essay directly addresses your problem. I suspect not, because you also describe further non-related symptoms but you never know your luck! Have a read and see what you think?http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Snippets...
Edited by honestjohntoo on Friday 10th December 00:04
I have posted the problem on a few sites and had a massive amount of help! thanks, the car was Gerry Attrick`s car, and I will try and start to check everything ASAP, I have a complete flapper system to rob parts from so will be changing bits out soon, the cold weather is not helping!
checked all pipe work, no blocks or leaks, crankcase breather was blocked so cleaned it out, made no difference.
Checked the distributor cap and rotor arm, they are poor surprised they were not changed when HT leads got changed?
Tried the other used ones I got with the spare system, no difference.
Changed the AFM, Bingo did change it, the hunting on tickover has gone and revs a little better, took it for a drive, engine is still cold and is holding back like it has too much choke? will go for a drive latter and see how she goes! stuck baby sitting!
Thanks
Rob
Checked the distributor cap and rotor arm, they are poor surprised they were not changed when HT leads got changed?
Tried the other used ones I got with the spare system, no difference.
Changed the AFM, Bingo did change it, the hunting on tickover has gone and revs a little better, took it for a drive, engine is still cold and is holding back like it has too much choke? will go for a drive latter and see how she goes! stuck baby sitting!
Thanks
Rob
yes had loads of hassle with intermotor parts in the past!
well took it for a longer run and its no different apart from tickover is working now, its not stalling and the tickover is not hunting.
The problem now is it just does not rev cleanly, missing, and feels like its a carb with the choke full on when it should be off......
Will look into getting a new rotor arm and distributor cap, it would be great to try parts that are known to work, as using parts that could still be faulty is not going to help! and the problem is many people will sell parts known to be faulty on ebay etc, as its easy money for junk.
well took it for a longer run and its no different apart from tickover is working now, its not stalling and the tickover is not hunting.
The problem now is it just does not rev cleanly, missing, and feels like its a carb with the choke full on when it should be off......
Will look into getting a new rotor arm and distributor cap, it would be great to try parts that are known to work, as using parts that could still be faulty is not going to help! and the problem is many people will sell parts known to be faulty on ebay etc, as its easy money for junk.
s1v8esprit said:
The problem now is it just does not rev cleanly, missing, and feels like its a carb with the choke full on when it should be off...... Will look into getting a new rotor arm and distributor cap, it would be great to try parts that are known to work
Your first observation seems to indicate a fuelling problem so it could be a distraction, swapping out ignition parts, without any evidence either way.You might consider some very basic diagnosis such as checking the spark plug condition for over or under fuelling - a massive boost in diagnosis of fuelling versus ignition.
As mentioned you'll follow a shed load of random component replacement suggestions and perhaps never uncover a root cause. Case in point, swapping out the AFM brought about a small change in behaviour, not proving that the AFM was faulty but that it may simply have had a maladjusted CO screw. But what if the adjustment on the replacement AFM is still wrong? Better, but wrong!!! A review of the previously referenced AFM and Hunting documents will help you regarding the affect of an over-rich idle mixture on the Efi hunting symptom.
Moving on! In lieu of swapping out every single component you might consider a full ignition system component review.
TESTNG IGNITION COMPONENTS - BACK TO BASICS
The circuit represents BOTH the system where the amplifier is mounted in an aluminium housing behind the coil AND where it is mounted on the side of the distributor. The effective electrics are the same, just the physical locations of components differ.
Be sure the earths and the wiring from the ignition switch through to the coil, distibutor and amplifier module are pretty much the same as shown.
Getting Started
o Reasons for testing the ignition system are a proven loss of sparks at the spark plugs, or weak/intermittent sparks causing misfiring.
o To proceed, separate the Low and High Tension circuits to find out immediately which circuit is faulty, then persue the fault condition in either circuit according to the results of some logical tests.
o Remove the king lead from the distributor, connect it to a good spark plug and lay the plug on the engine somewhere.
o Switch on the ignition and crank the engine.
o Is there a fat spark at the spark plug.
o If Yes - then the problems are downstream and away from the king lead at the dizzy cap, rotor arm, plug leads, plugs, or ignition timing so that is where to look - see " Other Components" (later) for checking the usual suspects, inspect, clean, substitute and only replace if faulty.
o If No - change the king lead.
o If still No - then the problems are upstream from the king lead and towards the coil, amplifier, distributor innards or their local connections all the way back to the ignition switch.
Testing the Low Tension Side Voltage Feed
o Switch on the ignition and use a multimeter to verify there are 12 volts at coil positive.
o If No - find out why, by checking the circuit between coil positive and the ignition switch and beyond, all the way back to the battery if necessary, for corroded or loose/broken connections.
o If Yes - dont take it for granted, waggle local wiring and toggle the ignition switch a few time to ensure the voltage is reliable, even using a bright lamp to check the wiring can supply a load.
Test the coil independently
o Disconnect the wire from coil negative to the amplifier.
o Turn ignition on, and strike coil negative to earth with a flying lead to see how good is the king lead spark.
o If sparks are absent/poor/weak and +12 volts is still present at coil positive then the coil is prime suspect for inspection/replacement.
o If sparks are fat/healthy then coil must be OK, so look for amplifier/pickup coil problems.
Test the Amplifier and Distributor Pickup Coil Together.
o Remove Distributor Cap.
o Disconnect ECU trigger wire from the 6.8k ohm resistor to prevent spurious signals getting to the ECU.
o Disconnect amplifier wire from coil negative.
o Connect a 12v 21W bulb from the same amplifier wire to coil positive (12 volt supply).
o The 21W bulb acts as a substitute coil load.
o Turn ignition on and rotate distributor rotor arm back and forward against the vacuum/mechanical advance springs.
o As the toothed reluctor wheel triggers the pickup coil, the amplifier should flash the bulb.
o If bulb flashing is positive and consistent the amplifier and pickup coil are working correctly together.
o If lamp does not flash or is inconsistent/weak either the amplifier or pickup coil is faulty.
Check the pickup coil independently
o Remove the amplifier connections to the pick-up coil and measure the resistance of the distributor pickup coil for a steady value between 500 ohms to 1500 ohms on the ohm-meter. Flex the wires at the same time to test their integrity.
o Outside the above range, short or open circuit indicates a croaky pickup coil.
o By process of elimination, if the pickup coil is OK, one might conclude the amplifier is faulty but nothing is ever that simple with electronic components, so to be sure:
Test the Amplifier independently
o What follows is an elegant but slightly complex test process.
o Use a 1.5 volt pen-cell battery connected in series with a (say} 2,700 ohm resistor and two flying leads to simulate the pickup coil.
o With the coil and amplifier connected normally and the distributor pickup coil disconnected from the amplifier, connect one flying lead to one of the amplifier input connectors and touch the other flying lead intermittantly across the second amplifier input connector.
o This emulates a pulsed input thereby activating the amplifier in sympathy to generate sparks from the coil?
o Polarity of this simulation is non-critical as neither flying lead is connected to earth, only to the amplifier input connectors, and the pulsing voltage from the pen-cell via the 2700 ohm resistor acts similar to the pickup coil input without causing stress or damage to the amplifier.
o The above test can be performed with the 21 watt bulb as the coil substitute as previously described, except in that circumstance, the pick-up coil simulation will flash the bulb.
Alternatively (for even more elegance), going one step further:
o Construct a small test box complete with switch, 21 watt bulb/holder, pen-cell battery, 2700 ohm resistor, 12 volt pos/neg power connections (from a car battery), spade connectors to the amplifier, etc.
o Connect up the 12 volts power and the amplifier to the test box and flick the switch repeatedly to emulate the pulsed input from a pickup coil and see the 21 watt bulb flash in sympathy to show the amplifier is working correctly.
Other Components
o Another possible component failure will be the suppressing condenser breaking down under the back-EMF from the coil.
o Remove condenser from circuit to see if the problem disappears.
o If yes, replace the condenser.
o Almost finally! For all the previous components check the LT wiring is not corroded, broken, dodgy or otherwise failing.
o Because all the components upstream of the king lead now check out OK, if fat sparks emerge from the king lead but not at the spark plugs its time to review the downstream components to see if they are dragging down, or failing to conduct, the Hi-Tension energy.
o Rotor arm - inspect for carbon tracking, clean with WD40, smear with a trace of silicon grease to prevent moisture ingress.
o Distibutor cap - inside and outside - inspect for carbon tracking, clean with WD40, smear with a trace of silicon grease to prevent moisture ingress. Wipe completely clean and shiny, especially between the turrets.
o Plug Leads and Hi-tension connectors - inspect for breaks and contact damage, clean with WD40, smear with a trace of silicon grease to prevent moisture ingress. Wipe completely clean and shiny.
o Spark Plugs - Check for recommended type, clean and gap to correct spec, inspect for insulator damage externally and whiskering/crud between central contact and body. Clean externally to a shine.
o The above four items are "zero cost" actions, yet, many owners replace them all never knowing which of the components may have been faulty.
o Check by swapping S/H or borrowed parts is an easy process before buying replacements.
o Looking for spark tracking on a dark night generally reveals faulty hi-tension parts.
Do you know what the mechanical condition is?
You wouldn't be the first to chase running issues that are due to a knackered cam. They work better with lobes on
I had a worn cam on a hotwire, admittedly I've had a rebore aswell but its absolutely transformed the car - I didn't change a thing electrically I even put the old plugs back in cos I knew they worked!
You wouldn't be the first to chase running issues that are due to a knackered cam. They work better with lobes on
I had a worn cam on a hotwire, admittedly I've had a rebore aswell but its absolutely transformed the car - I didn't change a thing electrically I even put the old plugs back in cos I knew they worked!
Edited by Barkychoc on Friday 10th December 22:30
Barkychoc said:
Do you know what the mechanical condition is?
You wouldn't be the first to chase running issues that are due to a knackered cam
What an excellent observation, but for the average owner enthusiast, unless one can follow a blessed route to cam diagnosis THAT DOES NOT entail removing even the smallest part or component from the engine.You wouldn't be the first to chase running issues that are due to a knackered cam
Fear personified! The mere suggestion of a worn cam lobes, yuk!
Sometimes you just dont wanna hear such gloomy suggestions, all that stripping down, oily finger stuff only to find it aint a problem after all? I should CoCo!
Yet there is a process that is a simple study of idle speed under controlled conditions.
So! Angel Gabrielle is at hand. "Fear not", said he, for mighty dread had siezed their troubled minds! "Just for you, A cool worn cam diagnostic process without recourse to kryptonite or dismantling the engine." Let me explain:
A Purely Diagnostic Process to Detect a Badly Worn Cam Lobe on an RV8
o set up an accurate rev counter on the engine.
o most modern digital multimeters and some strobe timing systems can be used for accurate rpm measurement.
o get the engine warm and set the idle speed to something really easy to measure (say 800 rpm).
o using suitably insulated grips/pliers, remove one spark plug lead at a time from the distributor (or spark plug) and observe the drop in idle speed for each cylinder.
o note down the results for No's 1 thro 8.
o removing the plug lead from a normally functioning cylinder will cause a drop in rpm of approximately 250 rpm (to about 550 rpm).
o removing the plug lead from a cylinder with a badly worn cam will cause a drop in rpm of approximately 100 rpm (to about 700 rpm).
o intermediate results might indicate partial wear on the camshaft or (just possibly) a spark plug/lead malfunction.
o (such possible but unlikely plug/plug lead causes can be eliminated by substitution)
o so, in summary, detection of less or much less than approximately 250 rpm drop in idle speed when the plug lead is disconnected (not being due to spark plug/lead issues) now warrants a visual inspection of the cam function.
o thus it only becomes necessary to dig down mechanically into the engine if the spcified test shows a failing cam or cams.
o only now is it necessary to remove a rocker cover to confirm any faulty valve lifting issues (sadly, on Efi models of course, this is not generally possible on the L/H bank without removing the plenum).
o further symptoms of probable cam wear are as follows:
- idling seems to be OK but raising the engine speed to 2000 rpm induces significant jerking/vibration as if a plug lead is removed, which then partly diminishes at higher rpm.
- general loss of all round performance - not easy to detect subjectively over long periods of time.
- the spark plug on a cam-affected cylinder will be fouled with oil/carbon deposits due to impaired combustion.
Worst case scenario
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Taking the offside rocker cover off would at least allow a rough check of that side without too much difficulty.
(Turn the engine over by hand and observe the rocker movements)
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Taking the offside rocker cover off would at least allow a rough check of that side without too much difficulty.
(Turn the engine over by hand and observe the rocker movements)
Edited by Barkychoc on Saturday 11th December 21:12
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