Discussion
Hi
I have been encouraged to to a build diary for my TVR S Jaguar engine conversion, I am aware that there is already 3 such topics covering this type of conversion but if there is any interest I will continue.
Firstly a bit of background of how this came about. My interest was originally in the ST220 engine which a friend had been modifying for his own project car. When I discovered that there was a rwd version of this family of V6 engines as used in the Jaguar S type I started to look around for a suitable donor car to modify.
So what was I looking for ? Preferably a fibreglass body with separate chassis that could be modified for a V6 engine.....the answer was obvious...I needed a Ginetta G27. The search began initially just as an idea but whilst searching the internet I found no suitable cars but stumbled across an unfinished project TVR S3C for sale on eBay, that’s when I discovered the posts on here confirming the Jag engine would fit in a S series car.I placed a bid on this car but wasn’t expecting to win it as I thought the final price would be out of my range.
Oh no ! I won it now had the problem of buying a car unseen from miles away and how to get it home. Fortunately the seller was really helpful and we arranged to have the car transported a couple of hundred miles to my house with no dramas , thanks Johnathan Bond a member on here.
The car arrived and was exactly as described Even had a few new spares not mentioned in the advert.
Now a had the dilemma of wether to restore the car as is or should I go ahead with the conversion.now I can dither nearly as well as I can procrastinate and really didn’t know if I should go ahead.I reached out to Mick Milane one of the guys on here who had already done the conversion and was kindly allowed to go and visit him to see his car when I was working nearby this gave me encouragement that it could be done and a friend told me to stop messing about and sell my 2.9 engine so there was no going back.
So the original low mileage (56k) 2.9 engine gearbox and ECU was sold to someone who I believe is going to install it in a overheating Sunbeam Alpine if I remember correctly.
Now started the research reading about the conversions done on here and beginning to learn about the engine.
Sorry if this is a bit longwinded but thought it’s a good place to start
I have been encouraged to to a build diary for my TVR S Jaguar engine conversion, I am aware that there is already 3 such topics covering this type of conversion but if there is any interest I will continue.
Firstly a bit of background of how this came about. My interest was originally in the ST220 engine which a friend had been modifying for his own project car. When I discovered that there was a rwd version of this family of V6 engines as used in the Jaguar S type I started to look around for a suitable donor car to modify.
So what was I looking for ? Preferably a fibreglass body with separate chassis that could be modified for a V6 engine.....the answer was obvious...I needed a Ginetta G27. The search began initially just as an idea but whilst searching the internet I found no suitable cars but stumbled across an unfinished project TVR S3C for sale on eBay, that’s when I discovered the posts on here confirming the Jag engine would fit in a S series car.I placed a bid on this car but wasn’t expecting to win it as I thought the final price would be out of my range.
Oh no ! I won it now had the problem of buying a car unseen from miles away and how to get it home. Fortunately the seller was really helpful and we arranged to have the car transported a couple of hundred miles to my house with no dramas , thanks Johnathan Bond a member on here.
The car arrived and was exactly as described Even had a few new spares not mentioned in the advert.
Now a had the dilemma of wether to restore the car as is or should I go ahead with the conversion.now I can dither nearly as well as I can procrastinate and really didn’t know if I should go ahead.I reached out to Mick Milane one of the guys on here who had already done the conversion and was kindly allowed to go and visit him to see his car when I was working nearby this gave me encouragement that it could be done and a friend told me to stop messing about and sell my 2.9 engine so there was no going back.
So the original low mileage (56k) 2.9 engine gearbox and ECU was sold to someone who I believe is going to install it in a overheating Sunbeam Alpine if I remember correctly.
Now started the research reading about the conversions done on here and beginning to learn about the engine.
Sorry if this is a bit longwinded but thought it’s a good place to start
This is not going to be a “how to guide “ as I have little experience doing this kind of work, more a “how I have done it” guide.
I thought this might be a good way of seeking help to answers to problems I will inevitably encounter and a good way of recording the build for reference.
How far have I got ?
Well I bought a low mileage Mot’d Jaguar S type with a good bit of service history from Oxford and my girlfriend drove it around for a few months whilst I dithered a bit more.
Finally decided to strip the Jag the coming weekend and ....it snowed on me quite heavily.
Yes I am doing this outside so am very weather dependent! I then picked up a scrap ST220 engine with the intention of using the ST sump and other bits.
I had both engines side by side cluttering up my drive so had to get on !
The sump was fitted to the Jag engine and I will be using the ST dipstick and carrier as apparently it’s best to use the dipstick that matches the sump.
With help of a friend I lowered the engine into the car ready to start making engine and a gearbox mount, then it snowed again ! DOH !
I am now in the process of making the mounts and will post pictures as and when I can.
I thought this might be a good way of seeking help to answers to problems I will inevitably encounter and a good way of recording the build for reference.
How far have I got ?
Well I bought a low mileage Mot’d Jaguar S type with a good bit of service history from Oxford and my girlfriend drove it around for a few months whilst I dithered a bit more.
Finally decided to strip the Jag the coming weekend and ....it snowed on me quite heavily.
Yes I am doing this outside so am very weather dependent! I then picked up a scrap ST220 engine with the intention of using the ST sump and other bits.
I had both engines side by side cluttering up my drive so had to get on !
The sump was fitted to the Jag engine and I will be using the ST dipstick and carrier as apparently it’s best to use the dipstick that matches the sump.
With help of a friend I lowered the engine into the car ready to start making engine and a gearbox mount, then it snowed again ! DOH !
I am now in the process of making the mounts and will post pictures as and when I can.
Engine lowered into car last weekend .
Like the other conversions I had to cut out a round chassis tube that was in the way of the sump and also remove the anti roll bar which will be relocated later on.
I ordered a pair of Landrover Discovery engine mount bobbins which are a bit slimmer than the existing ones which I believe are Cortina/Capri ones.
Like the other conversions I had to cut out a round chassis tube that was in the way of the sump and also remove the anti roll bar which will be relocated later on.
I ordered a pair of Landrover Discovery engine mount bobbins which are a bit slimmer than the existing ones which I believe are Cortina/Capri ones.
The original Jaguar gearbox had a threaded bolt fixing that just happened to be the same size as the TVR engine mount bobbins so being a cheapskate I reused one of the removed ones for the gearbox mount.
the threaded bolt was cut down and used as a collar to screw the mount into the gearbox and a bolt secured the top
Made up the mount for gearbox and fitted it today seems to work ok so gearbox is no longer held up by a ratchet strap !
Only fitted temporarily as i will be removing everything again to blast and paint chassis so will use nylock's on final assembly.
Front mounts not yet fitted so engine needs rotating slightly to square it up.![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/5CnwrKsw.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/hLER26jY" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/hLER26jY.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/K4tTEYVe" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/K4tTEYVe.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/npAfVxES" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/npAfVxES.jpg)
Only fitted temporarily as i will be removing everything again to blast and paint chassis so will use nylock's on final assembly.
Front mounts not yet fitted so engine needs rotating slightly to square it up.
Continuing on mounting the engine and I am up to version 3 of the mounts in my head !
I really wanted to keep original chassis mounting points but just didn't work out with the spacing so they had to go.
I then had a plan but found when I fitted the starter motor it was in the way so had to think again.
After getting a second opinion I found that leveling up the engine and centralizing it the starter motor solenoid fouled on a chassis upright.
Initially I intended to scallop out the offending rail but decided to weld in a new upright that removes the fouling and also provides a position to weld on the mount.
A new mount was made to bolt onto the engine first
This was installed and a Land Rover Defender type rubber "Bobbin" fitted.
The lower part of the mount was fabricated and welded in situ, My welding is not great and will need some dressing and completing when the engine is removed at which time i will remove the old upright rail.
Overall i am happy with the result and will move onto the other side asap
I really wanted to keep original chassis mounting points but just didn't work out with the spacing so they had to go.
I then had a plan but found when I fitted the starter motor it was in the way so had to think again.
After getting a second opinion I found that leveling up the engine and centralizing it the starter motor solenoid fouled on a chassis upright.
Initially I intended to scallop out the offending rail but decided to weld in a new upright that removes the fouling and also provides a position to weld on the mount.
A new mount was made to bolt onto the engine first
This was installed and a Land Rover Defender type rubber "Bobbin" fitted.
The lower part of the mount was fabricated and welded in situ, My welding is not great and will need some dressing and completing when the engine is removed at which time i will remove the old upright rail.
Overall i am happy with the result and will move onto the other side asap
Edited by Shemster65 on Sunday 23 May 17:32
Its been slow progress over winter as I am working outside in a very wet part of Lancashire but better weather and a bit of cover has spurred me on
I didn't like the clutch slave cylinder on the S and mine was shot any way, also I am going fly by wire on the throttle so be losing the accelerator pedal so looked at the donor Jag pedal box which wasn't so different ?
I decided to go for it and modify both the Jag Pedals and the S bulkhead and fit the Jag pedal box
I didn't like the clutch slave cylinder on the S and mine was shot any way, also I am going fly by wire on the throttle so be losing the accelerator pedal so looked at the donor Jag pedal box which wasn't so different ?
I decided to go for it and modify both the Jag Pedals and the S bulkhead and fit the Jag pedal box
Finally got around to doing more work on my car.
Next job was installing an alternator into the small gap on the left of the engine.
First I tried the Jag alternator but due to its mounting lugs couldn’t even pass it thru the hole between the chassis’s and engine so no good.
I had a Mondeo alternator off the sump donor engine and this did fit and was very close to lining up but the gaps around alternator were just too small, but least I knew the size of body I needed.
After lots of internet research I decided on Ford Transit Connect alternator which has a small body but has a good output (130 A). Unfortunately this is a “smart” alternator which is controlled by the cars ECU so I am going to have to get it converted to become a standard “dumb” device.
I found it quite difficult to position the unit correctly to make measurements but made some cardboard templates for suitable brackets and after a few revisions made these brackets to bolt on the engine block which provide mounts for alternator
Welding again is not so neat but quite secure !
Next job was installing an alternator into the small gap on the left of the engine.
First I tried the Jag alternator but due to its mounting lugs couldn’t even pass it thru the hole between the chassis’s and engine so no good.
I had a Mondeo alternator off the sump donor engine and this did fit and was very close to lining up but the gaps around alternator were just too small, but least I knew the size of body I needed.
After lots of internet research I decided on Ford Transit Connect alternator which has a small body but has a good output (130 A). Unfortunately this is a “smart” alternator which is controlled by the cars ECU so I am going to have to get it converted to become a standard “dumb” device.
I found it quite difficult to position the unit correctly to make measurements but made some cardboard templates for suitable brackets and after a few revisions made these brackets to bolt on the engine block which provide mounts for alternator
Welding again is not so neat but quite secure !
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