Bangernomics...Fix fault or leave?
Discussion
Hello all,
Happy new year, hope everyone has had a good festive season etc....
So, onto bangernomics.... To fix, or not to fix?
I have a Volvo V40 1.8, purchased for winter commuting duties. Its a '98 on S-reg, 73k miles and cost not a lot to buy. Problem I have now is the engine electronics warning light has started flashing. The handbook states that its a comms error between the immobiliser and the ECU, but I'm not even sure it has an immobiliser fitted as the key is a bog standard old-school style one with no battery or buttons etc. The car also runs ok, no problems so far, but there's a definite niggle at the back of my mind that somethings going to go horribly wrong.
I know that with anything under £500 you should only really replace things that NEED replacing.... tyres, brake discs/pads etc. But I've grown quite attached to the old bus and I'd quite like to keep it running (I've even named him Olaf).
Do those who run sheds live with these sort of faults on a regular basis and just ignore them, or do they fix them early in hope of preventing terminal failure/expensive-explosions/death etc? I'm at pains to spend fortunes on a dealer plug in to return an expensive list of possible issues, but then it could also turn out to be a cheap, simple thing that could save me £££s in the future.
Thoughts, past experiences, comments? I'm a bit new to this!
Happy new year, hope everyone has had a good festive season etc....
So, onto bangernomics.... To fix, or not to fix?
I have a Volvo V40 1.8, purchased for winter commuting duties. Its a '98 on S-reg, 73k miles and cost not a lot to buy. Problem I have now is the engine electronics warning light has started flashing. The handbook states that its a comms error between the immobiliser and the ECU, but I'm not even sure it has an immobiliser fitted as the key is a bog standard old-school style one with no battery or buttons etc. The car also runs ok, no problems so far, but there's a definite niggle at the back of my mind that somethings going to go horribly wrong.
I know that with anything under £500 you should only really replace things that NEED replacing.... tyres, brake discs/pads etc. But I've grown quite attached to the old bus and I'd quite like to keep it running (I've even named him Olaf).
Do those who run sheds live with these sort of faults on a regular basis and just ignore them, or do they fix them early in hope of preventing terminal failure/expensive-explosions/death etc? I'm at pains to spend fortunes on a dealer plug in to return an expensive list of possible issues, but then it could also turn out to be a cheap, simple thing that could save me £££s in the future.
Thoughts, past experiences, comments? I'm a bit new to this!
Ozzie Osmond said:
bimsb6 said:
piece of black tape over the annoying light will cure it permanently .
...especially if the fuel consumption remains acceptable and the car can pass an MOT emissions test.I'm going to endeavour to ignore it and pretend it isn't there. I shall report back if all is well....
and pretend it never was there if it suddenly dies!
Thanks for the advice gents, hopefully all will be ok
^^^^ Yep, the key looks like that, but it doesn't have the attached fob with the lock/unlock/boot release buttons.
The plastic part of the key cracked when I tried to turn it in a completely frozen lock. I took the metal part of the key out and was going to make up a new 'handle' for it, but I managed to fill the old handle with Araldite and set the key back in. While it was apart I could see right into the innards of the plastic handle and could not see any sign of a transponder, or any electronics at all.
Is it perhaps tiny and embedded right in the back of the plastic? If so, how is it powered, as there does not seem to be any power source inside it?
Your symptoms are slightly different to mine, in that I've never had an issue with starting and the light stops flashing once engine is over 1500rpm. Then comes back on once below 1500rpm, then off again and so on.
Hope you don't have any serious issues with yours if you're leaving it, although it seems like you have it well sussed anyway
ETA Also, this wasn't intended to be a thread solely for my specific problem, but more of a gauge to see what experienced shed owners do when faced with similar problems. Feel free to contribute if you've let something be, then it ended catastrophically days later, or if, as poster above states with the Rover, its kept going for years.
The plastic part of the key cracked when I tried to turn it in a completely frozen lock. I took the metal part of the key out and was going to make up a new 'handle' for it, but I managed to fill the old handle with Araldite and set the key back in. While it was apart I could see right into the innards of the plastic handle and could not see any sign of a transponder, or any electronics at all.
Is it perhaps tiny and embedded right in the back of the plastic? If so, how is it powered, as there does not seem to be any power source inside it?
Your symptoms are slightly different to mine, in that I've never had an issue with starting and the light stops flashing once engine is over 1500rpm. Then comes back on once below 1500rpm, then off again and so on.
Hope you don't have any serious issues with yours if you're leaving it, although it seems like you have it well sussed anyway
ETA Also, this wasn't intended to be a thread solely for my specific problem, but more of a gauge to see what experienced shed owners do when faced with similar problems. Feel free to contribute if you've let something be, then it ended catastrophically days later, or if, as poster above states with the Rover, its kept going for years.
Edited by irodger on Monday 3rd January 12:02
Well, this morning the old bus wouldn't start. Had that annoying fast tick-tick of the starter motor relay going. Lights were dim and window wiper barely managed to move. A quick jump start from another car and all was fine. The warning light that previously flashed below 1500rpm is now extinguished permanently.... RESULT!
Unfortunatley there must be something causing the battery to drain. I've checked the battery and its showing 11.9V-no charge and 14.35V with the engine running, so the battery and alternator appear to be ok.
Something I noticed after a few days of ownership was the constant illumination of the electric window switches. I tried to look into this but couldn't really find any info. Since it wasn't a problem I kind of let it slip from my mind.
Could someone with a V40/S40 of similar era ('98) confirm whether these should stay permenantly powered please? I'd be eternally grateful! If they are not supposed to be powered, then I'm thinking the supply contact on the master window relay may be stuck? This, combined with the recent cold weather could be taking its toll on the battery as it sits slowly discharging overnight. I know the battery also powers the radio/clock/odometer memory etc even with ignition off, but the windows working does seem strange.
Unfortunatley there must be something causing the battery to drain. I've checked the battery and its showing 11.9V-no charge and 14.35V with the engine running, so the battery and alternator appear to be ok.
Something I noticed after a few days of ownership was the constant illumination of the electric window switches. I tried to look into this but couldn't really find any info. Since it wasn't a problem I kind of let it slip from my mind.
Could someone with a V40/S40 of similar era ('98) confirm whether these should stay permenantly powered please? I'd be eternally grateful! If they are not supposed to be powered, then I'm thinking the supply contact on the master window relay may be stuck? This, combined with the recent cold weather could be taking its toll on the battery as it sits slowly discharging overnight. I know the battery also powers the radio/clock/odometer memory etc even with ignition off, but the windows working does seem strange.
Dr Doofenshmirtz said:
The battery should always read over 12 volts (12.5-13.5v about is normal) unless it is discharged.
The cracked ignition key could well be the root cause of your original problem - there is a tuned circuit in the key similar to those shop security barriers you go through. The key is energised by a coil around the ignition barrel.
Sorry, just noticed I'd missed a '7' off of my 11.9V, so it should have read 11.97V. I know this isn't fully charged, but neither does it mean the battery is dead. As I figured the battery was ok, was charging ok and holding it for a while, I assumed that something was draining it. It may well be just hanging on until it does completely give up the ghost, but for the moment it seems to be reasonable.The cracked ignition key could well be the root cause of your original problem - there is a tuned circuit in the key similar to those shop security barriers you go through. The key is energised by a coil around the ignition barrel.
The key thing intrigues me, as when the key was in bits, I was able to use the metal part of the key on its own (turned using pliers). I did this to see if I would be ok to manufacture a new handle for said key. Ignition and car started fine, without the black plastic handle.
Anyways, the car had a good run to work today, so just going to check it now to see if the battery has died again. Fingers crossed.
At least all this checking doesn't cost anything!
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