For the love of Tuscan (project build)
Discussion
Greetings all longtime lurker here with a Mk1 Tuscan in need of some TLC. I bought my 2000 Tuscan in August and have been systematically dismantling it ever since in an effort to get it MOT'd before winter, well winters (nearly) here and guess what...it's still dismantled!
The car came from Glen at North East Sports Salvage and was in need of some 'minor' fibreglass repairs to the small bonnet and the OSR corner/boot area. I've done fibreglass and carbon fibre work before so I thought it would be a perfect and cheap (!!) way into a Tuscan that was mechanically/chassis wise in very good condition.
When the car arrived on the transporter I couldn't believe how good it looked even with it's battle scars. The battery was dead and no fuel in the tank so we pushed it onto my drive where it has stayed ever since, yes I haven't even driven it yet apart from to manoeuvre it into position.
There was little history with the car and is as follows:
2019-07-10 40126 miles, Bespoke Performance major service and mechanical/suspension overhaul £6k spent
2022-03-30 40552 miles crashed category N, none structural.
Spec: AC (belt removed), upgraded AP TVR calipers with standard discs, unknown dampers/springs (haven't had a chance to check properly). Half hide interior.
Sadly, the last owner only did about 400 miles in it since the major service, I assume it was garaged for most of lockdown, then taken out for a spin which ended his ownership. I assume it had a minor rear end shunt that pushed it into the car in front?? What a shame.
I have all the MOT history etc and Car Vertical report, which is BTW very poor for a history checker as it missed the change of ownership in 2019.
I would like to rebuild the history file if possible so if anyone is familiar with this car, please post or get in touch.
As for the project, I'm well underway and as I get a chance, I will post details of all the repairs and hopefully some nice improvements.
Project bullet points:
My approach will be, restore where possible, if not viable, replace with factory or better parts. As I haven't even driven it yet, or any TVR for that matter, I will wait for that big day before starting on engine/chassis/brake improvements.
So, before I sign off, can anybody identify the colour? It isn't factory which was Crystal Topaz and has been changed to a beautiful dark metallic purple, much darker than Rolex blue, almost black when no direct sunlight is on it...
Any help or pointers would be very welcome.
Thanks for reading
The car came from Glen at North East Sports Salvage and was in need of some 'minor' fibreglass repairs to the small bonnet and the OSR corner/boot area. I've done fibreglass and carbon fibre work before so I thought it would be a perfect and cheap (!!) way into a Tuscan that was mechanically/chassis wise in very good condition.
When the car arrived on the transporter I couldn't believe how good it looked even with it's battle scars. The battery was dead and no fuel in the tank so we pushed it onto my drive where it has stayed ever since, yes I haven't even driven it yet apart from to manoeuvre it into position.
There was little history with the car and is as follows:
2019-07-10 40126 miles, Bespoke Performance major service and mechanical/suspension overhaul £6k spent
2022-03-30 40552 miles crashed category N, none structural.
Spec: AC (belt removed), upgraded AP TVR calipers with standard discs, unknown dampers/springs (haven't had a chance to check properly). Half hide interior.
Sadly, the last owner only did about 400 miles in it since the major service, I assume it was garaged for most of lockdown, then taken out for a spin which ended his ownership. I assume it had a minor rear end shunt that pushed it into the car in front?? What a shame.
I have all the MOT history etc and Car Vertical report, which is BTW very poor for a history checker as it missed the change of ownership in 2019.
I would like to rebuild the history file if possible so if anyone is familiar with this car, please post or get in touch.
As for the project, I'm well underway and as I get a chance, I will post details of all the repairs and hopefully some nice improvements.
Project bullet points:
- Fibreglass and bodywork repairs
- Respray
- Full interior strip and restoration (leather is very good condition) but interior smells baaaad.
- Leaky roof/doors/rear screen
- Alternative rear screen fixings
- Electrical restoration including dash pod repairs
- Lighting upgrades
- Bonnet struts
- Android touchscreen stereo and speaker upgrade
- Carl Baker alarm upgrade with driver proximity detection and boot release
- Stop/Start button
- Minor chassis rust repairs
- Fresh coolant hoses
- Engine vapour blasting
My approach will be, restore where possible, if not viable, replace with factory or better parts. As I haven't even driven it yet, or any TVR for that matter, I will wait for that big day before starting on engine/chassis/brake improvements.
So, before I sign off, can anybody identify the colour? It isn't factory which was Crystal Topaz and has been changed to a beautiful dark metallic purple, much darker than Rolex blue, almost black when no direct sunlight is on it...
Any help or pointers would be very welcome.
Thanks for reading
Edited by Modrich on Sunday 16th October 15:32
Edited by Modrich on Thursday 15th December 15:36
Edited by Modrich on Monday 25th March 23:14
Thanks guys, I intend to fully detail everything I do, already have 1000s of pics, just need the time to write it all up.
@sct_w4, good shout about those colours, google is already throwing up some decent matches, the Bently colour seems too black from online pics, but RR black sapphire pearl seems a good match
Orrrr it could even be Midnight Purple II
But yes the best bet is to get it scanned, not sure if that will give me a colour code and name or just mix ratios.
Thanks again peeps more posts soon
@sct_w4, good shout about those colours, google is already throwing up some decent matches, the Bently colour seems too black from online pics, but RR black sapphire pearl seems a good match
Orrrr it could even be Midnight Purple II
But yes the best bet is to get it scanned, not sure if that will give me a colour code and name or just mix ratios.
Thanks again peeps more posts soon
Edited by Modrich on Sunday 31st March 23:55
The chassis is actually in really good condition, pretty sure it's had new outriggers at some point as it's sleeved on the front diagonals. The only areas that I felt needed immediate attention were the pedal box and seat supports the powder coating was flaking off. I'll detail this in a later post.
So this is the damage sustained to the rear of the Tuscan. One long crack with several offshoots, a crack to the opening of the boot
And another crack (I had already started to remove material here in this photo) and a chunk out of the gelcoat/filler and crack to the bottom right of the rear screen
And crack on service bonnet, grille was damaged beyond repair so was removed before delivery
And localised hairline cracks in the gelcoat.
So, before I can start the repairs I need to get access to the inside of the boot skin which means stripping all the carpet...
Then grind out the inner skin that supports the boot lid latch and release solenoid...
Remove the boot lid and hinges...
And the bent boot lid latch
Now it's onto the repairs. I took a multitool and ran the blade between all the cracks so the panels will naturally re-align then using a grinder removed the gelcoat down to the fibreglass creating a 60mm strip wherever there is a crack...
Then wet it out with epoxy resin and apply layers of 50mm fibreglass tape inside and out and leave to fully harden for a few days, takes longer than usual as it's below 15degs a lot of the time now.
Next, it's filling and sanding back...
And another crack (I had already started to remove material here in this photo) and a chunk out of the gelcoat/filler and crack to the bottom right of the rear screen
And crack on service bonnet, grille was damaged beyond repair so was removed before delivery
And localised hairline cracks in the gelcoat.
So, before I can start the repairs I need to get access to the inside of the boot skin which means stripping all the carpet...
Then grind out the inner skin that supports the boot lid latch and release solenoid...
Remove the boot lid and hinges...
And the bent boot lid latch
Now it's onto the repairs. I took a multitool and ran the blade between all the cracks so the panels will naturally re-align then using a grinder removed the gelcoat down to the fibreglass creating a 60mm strip wherever there is a crack...
Then wet it out with epoxy resin and apply layers of 50mm fibreglass tape inside and out and leave to fully harden for a few days, takes longer than usual as it's below 15degs a lot of the time now.
Next, it's filling and sanding back...
Edited by Modrich on Monday 25th March 21:27
Edited by Modrich on Monday 25th March 23:04
Thanks Gladers. I haven't seen any for sale in this colour so if there was one recently I must have missed it. The ID plate in the boot lists the colour as Crystal Topaz so current colour isn't factory unfortunately. The bodywork repairs were surprisingly straight forward, painting it is the hard bit which I won't be doing...
Sorry I've not updated for a while I've been poking at the rear indicators...
Anyway here's an update to the bodywork repairs. 1st stage of filling and sanding back done so all the bodywork damage has been addressed, ready for fine filling and sanding, but I will be taking advice on the hairline cracks to the gelcoat from the bodyshop first (I've managed to find someone familiar with TVRs).
I now have a very good fibreglass copy of the front grille from a breakers in Estoril blue which fits perfectly :-)
Anyway here's an update to the bodywork repairs. 1st stage of filling and sanding back done so all the bodywork damage has been addressed, ready for fine filling and sanding, but I will be taking advice on the hairline cracks to the gelcoat from the bodyshop first (I've managed to find someone familiar with TVRs).
I now have a very good fibreglass copy of the front grille from a breakers in Estoril blue which fits perfectly :-)
Edited by Modrich on Sunday 31st March 19:41
That's interesting thanks Nick, so my chassis is possibly original. I wonder why they are sleeved from the factory? Must have been a way to give some adjustment to make up for tolerances to achieve a level floor.
I'm sure the more I poke around the chassis, the more areas that need addressing will become obvious, but so far it certainly doesn't look like a body off job. My priority ATM is getting it roadworthy for MOT, so I can get behind the wheel which will probably be the spring now if I'm honest.
I'm sure the more I poke around the chassis, the more areas that need addressing will become obvious, but so far it certainly doesn't look like a body off job. My priority ATM is getting it roadworthy for MOT, so I can get behind the wheel which will probably be the spring now if I'm honest.
While we're on the subject of the chassis here is what I've done to address the worst of the chassis corrosion that I've found so far. In my opinion, with limited experience on TVR chassis, I think it's in amazing condition considering that it’s potentially original, the body to chassis bolts under the carpet also look like they've never been undone which would backup this theory.
The powder coating is only flaking off the pedal box and seat supports and floor pan corner fillets.
I decided to address this localised corrosion early on so attacked it with a wire brush attachment on my grinder. I'm a big fan of Hammerite paint, I restored a cast iron bench at the start of lockdown and painted it in silver Hammerite 8 year direct to rust paint, it’s really tough and after 3 years still looks as good as the day I painted it with no rust coming through so decided to mix a suitable light grey (roughly 70/30 white/black) to match the chassis colour. I treated the rust with Hammerite Kurust then 2 coats of the grey paint mix. This should last until the Tuscan is on the road and I have more time to give the chassis a thorough inspection.
Wire brushed & Kurust applied
Not pretty but will do the job
Here's a good shot of the main chassis, not much rust there, I've only painted upto the sleeve on the diagonal. I'm thinking this area would benefit from some sort of stone/mud guard to protect the paint, has anyone done this?
The powder coating is only flaking off the pedal box and seat supports and floor pan corner fillets.
I decided to address this localised corrosion early on so attacked it with a wire brush attachment on my grinder. I'm a big fan of Hammerite paint, I restored a cast iron bench at the start of lockdown and painted it in silver Hammerite 8 year direct to rust paint, it’s really tough and after 3 years still looks as good as the day I painted it with no rust coming through so decided to mix a suitable light grey (roughly 70/30 white/black) to match the chassis colour. I treated the rust with Hammerite Kurust then 2 coats of the grey paint mix. This should last until the Tuscan is on the road and I have more time to give the chassis a thorough inspection.
Wire brushed & Kurust applied
Not pretty but will do the job
Here's a good shot of the main chassis, not much rust there, I've only painted upto the sleeve on the diagonal. I'm thinking this area would benefit from some sort of stone/mud guard to protect the paint, has anyone done this?
Edited by Modrich on Sunday 31st March 19:45
Nice pic, that could be my chassis! Mine was registered Nov' 2000, thanks NCE 61.
@Basil Brush, I agree looks good so far, but as you say I've already noted corrosion on the top rail next to the manifold and was amazed that there's no heat shielding there, also like yours there is corrosion around the bolts on the front wishbone mounting points, just surface though, I plan on getting any difficult to get at areas like this vapour blasted when I get the engine done.
Thanks guys, keep the helpful comments coming. I've just got around to writing a letter to the owner who's details were on the Bespoke Performance invoice in 2019, he owned it for 14yrs from 2005 to 2019 when he sold it to the previous owner. I'm hoping he has some more info on the history and colour etc.
@Basil Brush, I agree looks good so far, but as you say I've already noted corrosion on the top rail next to the manifold and was amazed that there's no heat shielding there, also like yours there is corrosion around the bolts on the front wishbone mounting points, just surface though, I plan on getting any difficult to get at areas like this vapour blasted when I get the engine done.
Thanks guys, keep the helpful comments coming. I've just got around to writing a letter to the owner who's details were on the Bespoke Performance invoice in 2019, he owned it for 14yrs from 2005 to 2019 when he sold it to the previous owner. I'm hoping he has some more info on the history and colour etc.
sct_w4 said:
If you need any pics I’ve currently got the body off my Mk2. Only lifted it a couple of weekends ago so it’s still relatively untouched, haven’t even had time to clean it down.
The chassis colour is a RAL number and has been asked a few times around the forums if you want a direct match.
Thanks mate, the colour I've mixed is a pretty good match but different enough that I can see where I've been, but my focus atm is bodywork/interior/electrical, chassis will be a summer job hopefully. If I need anything in the meantime I know where to comeThe chassis colour is a RAL number and has been asked a few times around the forums if you want a direct match.
Edited by Modrich on Tuesday 1st November 15:39
Edited by Modrich on Tuesday 1st November 15:40
nawarne said:
Modrich, hi!
The pedal box plate is a swine to really de-rust and then protect....as are the channels/'top-hat' for the seat bolts at the rear.
I requested Lloyds to replace both items with flat bar/plate - doing away with the rust traps that were the forward facing 'right-angles'. I would usually do a scrape/sand and high zinc primer, then top coat on these every winter but they succumbed to the tin worm in the end.
Nick
Thanks Nick, I did think the design could be better even a bolt-on section that could be removed for cleaning/maintenance etc would be an improvement.The pedal box plate is a swine to really de-rust and then protect....as are the channels/'top-hat' for the seat bolts at the rear.
I requested Lloyds to replace both items with flat bar/plate - doing away with the rust traps that were the forward facing 'right-angles'. I would usually do a scrape/sand and high zinc primer, then top coat on these every winter but they succumbed to the tin worm in the end.
Nick
so called said:
My Tuscan was finished in Bentley Sapphire Blue which, as you describe, a flat black with no sun, then a sparkling deep blue under the lights, great in the Spanish sun.
No hint of purple though.
Beautiful colour that but yes mine has purple in it like the Rolls Royce Sapphire PearlNo hint of purple though.
Edited by Modrich on Tuesday 1st November 15:39
Tuscan interior strip-out
So the next stage was to remove the seats and carpets. Over the last few years during lock down this didn't get used and probably sat in a damp garage so the interior was smelly and not a nice place to be. So it all had to come out...
Carpets and foam removed. The foam went straight in the bin and will be replaced with high density closed cell foam that doesn't absorb moisture and will help will NVH.
The body to chassis bolts were quite rusty but cleaned-up ok, they get the usual treatment with Kurust and Hammerite paint...
Generally though the seat leather is in pretty good condition considering their age, there's the usual damage to the drivers side bolster and the steel frames of the seat hoop are both snapped and on one side of the passenger seat. This is the passenger seat...
The seats will be getting a complete strip-down and damaged leather replaced/repaired, the carpets will be cleaned but not sure if I will re-use them or put fresh carpet back in...
So the next stage was to remove the seats and carpets. Over the last few years during lock down this didn't get used and probably sat in a damp garage so the interior was smelly and not a nice place to be. So it all had to come out...
Carpets and foam removed. The foam went straight in the bin and will be replaced with high density closed cell foam that doesn't absorb moisture and will help will NVH.
The body to chassis bolts were quite rusty but cleaned-up ok, they get the usual treatment with Kurust and Hammerite paint...
Generally though the seat leather is in pretty good condition considering their age, there's the usual damage to the drivers side bolster and the steel frames of the seat hoop are both snapped and on one side of the passenger seat. This is the passenger seat...
The seats will be getting a complete strip-down and damaged leather replaced/repaired, the carpets will be cleaned but not sure if I will re-use them or put fresh carpet back in...
Edited by Modrich on Sunday 31st March 19:51
Next up, steering wheel & dash-pod removal...
The steering wheel, as with most parts I've come across so far is in pretty good shape, no damage, rips or tears but the dashpod and shroud are misaligned which seems a common issue and I noticed that the speedo needle was stuck and did a little stutter when turning on the ignition. I presume the needle should do a full sweep and return home..?
Steering wheel off...
The boss was a nightmare to remove but managed it with a 10mm socket and stubby allen key...
Dashpod next, held on at the top with 2 screws, and there's 3 screws underneath shared with the lower part of the shroud but I think only one screw was in place...
Next the column stalks, I will be replacing the switches with new ones to hopefully improve the quality as they feel quite clunky...
All stripped. I will be stripping the dashpod and checking for issues in a later post...
The steering wheel, as with most parts I've come across so far is in pretty good shape, no damage, rips or tears but the dashpod and shroud are misaligned which seems a common issue and I noticed that the speedo needle was stuck and did a little stutter when turning on the ignition. I presume the needle should do a full sweep and return home..?
Steering wheel off...
The boss was a nightmare to remove but managed it with a 10mm socket and stubby allen key...
Dashpod next, held on at the top with 2 screws, and there's 3 screws underneath shared with the lower part of the shroud but I think only one screw was in place...
Next the column stalks, I will be replacing the switches with new ones to hopefully improve the quality as they feel quite clunky...
All stripped. I will be stripping the dashpod and checking for issues in a later post...
Edited by Modrich on Sunday 31st March 19:57
plasticman said:
Just noticed this thread and have seen your backend repair . You need to properly grind out those stress cracks and re-glass them .You have a lot more work before you go anywhere near a painter and I would recomend you use polyester for the repair rather than epoxy as it should be closer to the same expansion rate.
Thanks plasticman exactly the sort of advice I was looking for, my initial priority was to get the damage structurally sound so I can progress other areas and get the car on the road then I can get advice from local bodyshops on how far I should take it before handing over to them.NCE 61 said:
“ I presume the needle should do a full sweep and return home..?”
There is no start up sweep on the MK1 Tuscan speedo (not on my 2000 MY) it uses a micro switch to check its on zero and otherwise gives a warning.
Good to know, on closer inspection it appears the 2 wires to the needle motor had been rubbing on the dashpod chassis and were shorting out causing the stutter when ignition was turned on. Hopefully nothing is permanently damaged... There is no start up sweep on the MK1 Tuscan speedo (not on my 2000 MY) it uses a micro switch to check its on zero and otherwise gives a warning.
I suspect you may be right BB but at £20ish for the pair it's worth a punt and if a new part vs a 20yr old part yields a slight improvement in feel then I'll put it down as a +result :-)
I'm coming from a car world of E46 M3s, B7 RS4s and a smattering of Scoobies, Golf GTis and Alfas, I'm well aware that in comparison TVR world is like chalk vs cheese with those but I'm confident that it will be worth my hassle in fixing this one up as nothing new these days floats my boat and even just sat on my drive in a state of disassembly I've had more +comments from passers-by than any of my previous cars have. Other cars are just invisible compared to TVRs it seems...
I'm coming from a car world of E46 M3s, B7 RS4s and a smattering of Scoobies, Golf GTis and Alfas, I'm well aware that in comparison TVR world is like chalk vs cheese with those but I'm confident that it will be worth my hassle in fixing this one up as nothing new these days floats my boat and even just sat on my drive in a state of disassembly I've had more +comments from passers-by than any of my previous cars have. Other cars are just invisible compared to TVRs it seems...
Hi Dalamar/S6PNJ, it's this sort of thing I really want to nail as I've noticed even with supposedly well sorted £50k Tuscans that they still have issues in areas such as the Dashpod shrouds and if you look closely the steering column gaiter/stalk curtains all seem to be loose/ill fitting. Obviously specialists can't afford to spend time sorting these things so it's down to DIY owners.
Some of it might be down to missing screws on the dashpod brackets etc which I found and the bracket was also twisted, but there is no solid fixing between the Dashpod and the shroud, they are just pushed together. Now I've got everything apart I've got a good idea how it can go back together in a way that it won't fall apart at the next speed bump. When it comes to it I'm prepared to install/uninstall a few times to make up additional fixing points etc. I'll detail this when I get to it.
Closed cell polyethylene foam sheet, I chose 5mm white.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174998279933
Meyle Steering Column Switch 614 890 0000 (lights/indicators)
Meyle Steering Column Switch 614 890 0002 (wipers)
The wiper stalk has an extra function for rear wash/wipe which isn't used.
Some of it might be down to missing screws on the dashpod brackets etc which I found and the bracket was also twisted, but there is no solid fixing between the Dashpod and the shroud, they are just pushed together. Now I've got everything apart I've got a good idea how it can go back together in a way that it won't fall apart at the next speed bump. When it comes to it I'm prepared to install/uninstall a few times to make up additional fixing points etc. I'll detail this when I get to it.
Closed cell polyethylene foam sheet, I chose 5mm white.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174998279933
Meyle Steering Column Switch 614 890 0000 (lights/indicators)
Meyle Steering Column Switch 614 890 0002 (wipers)
The wiper stalk has an extra function for rear wash/wipe which isn't used.
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