Please help - the Ignition control unit is just clicking
Discussion
Hi,
Just wanted to take the Cerb 4.2 for a spin, but instead of starting the engine the eltronincs on the boot are just clicking (sound). The starter engine is not turning (or making an noises)
I tried a few thing:
The clicking noise comes both when I push the "Start" and the "Stop" button.
The sound comes from both IgnitionControl Unit and from one on the relays next to the fuses in the boot. (If I remove the relay, the Ignition Control Unit keeps clicking when the button is pushed, but not the other way around it the Control unit is disconnected).
Have any one tried this or have a suggestion how to solve?
Just wanted to take the Cerb 4.2 for a spin, but instead of starting the engine the eltronincs on the boot are just clicking (sound). The starter engine is not turning (or making an noises)
I tried a few thing:
- Change the battery
- Power on/off the whole system
- Disconnecting the Ignition control unit
The clicking noise comes both when I push the "Start" and the "Stop" button.
The sound comes from both IgnitionControl Unit and from one on the relays next to the fuses in the boot. (If I remove the relay, the Ignition Control Unit keeps clicking when the button is pushed, but not the other way around it the Control unit is disconnected).
Have any one tried this or have a suggestion how to solve?
Hi, just came back from holiday and the problem did not disappear by it self as I hoped for 
The fuwl pump start when the start-button is pressed and I tested the starter (it works fine).
I try to reachout to Carl Baker as he comes highly recommended, but he does not respond. Are there anyone else anyone can recommend? (I live abroad).
Is there a way that I can test if the problem is the immobiliser?

The fuwl pump start when the start-button is pressed and I tested the starter (it works fine).
I try to reachout to Carl Baker as he comes highly recommended, but he does not respond. Are there anyone else anyone can recommend? (I live abroad).
Is there a way that I can test if the problem is the immobiliser?
I have been in contact with Dave from HF Solutions, and he was very helpfull. After a few test, we could conclude that it was NOT the immobiliser causing the problem.
Recap of problem:
- I can turn on the ignition (getting light in the dashboard) pressing either the "On/Starter" or the "Off" button.
- "Flicking" the ignition turns on/off really quick (and clicking noises from the relays) still occurs when either the "on" or "off" button is pressed"
- The "clicking"sound comes from both the relays Ignition Control Unit and from one on of the relays next to the fuses in the boot. (If I remove the relay in the boot, then the Ignition Control Unit ralay keeps "clicking" when the buttons are pushed, but not the other way around if the Control unit box is disconnected).
- The starter is still not activated (I did test the starter motor again and it is working).
Bonus info:
Before the car totally refused to start, it seemed like the system became slower and slower. In the end, I sometime had to keep the starter button presset for more than 30sec before the startermotor was activated. I recently stalled the car doing a 3-point turn in the middle of the street, and it felt like an eternity sitting pressing the starter button, before the starter motor finally was activated and the engine started, so I could move the car "parked" accross the road.
All the above may indicate a problem with the control box. Do anyone have any other suggestion?
Is there a way I can test the Control Unit Box without replacing the control unit box?
Recap of problem:
- I can turn on the ignition (getting light in the dashboard) pressing either the "On/Starter" or the "Off" button.
- "Flicking" the ignition turns on/off really quick (and clicking noises from the relays) still occurs when either the "on" or "off" button is pressed"
- The "clicking"sound comes from both the relays Ignition Control Unit and from one on of the relays next to the fuses in the boot. (If I remove the relay in the boot, then the Ignition Control Unit ralay keeps "clicking" when the buttons are pushed, but not the other way around if the Control unit box is disconnected).
- The starter is still not activated (I did test the starter motor again and it is working).
Bonus info:
Before the car totally refused to start, it seemed like the system became slower and slower. In the end, I sometime had to keep the starter button presset for more than 30sec before the startermotor was activated. I recently stalled the car doing a 3-point turn in the middle of the street, and it felt like an eternity sitting pressing the starter button, before the starter motor finally was activated and the engine started, so I could move the car "parked" accross the road.
All the above may indicate a problem with the control box. Do anyone have any other suggestion?
Is there a way I can test the Control Unit Box without replacing the control unit box?
RUSSELLM said:
Holding your finger on the starter button for 30 seconds, is indicative of a knackered immobiliser, from my experience.
If it helps, a recent discussion where we discussed the exact opposite to your fault.
But basically, you’ll have to work your way along it, starter button to ignition module, Ignition module to immobiliser, immobiliser to starter relay (where ever that is), starter relay to starter solenoid.
Personally, I’d head for the middle (immobiliser)
Edit.... Here https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Thanks, for the advise. I already checked the immobiliser, and that is not the issue. I assumed that the relays in the control unit box were for the starter motor, but may be that is wrong. Do any one know where the starter motor relay is located?If it helps, a recent discussion where we discussed the exact opposite to your fault.
But basically, you’ll have to work your way along it, starter button to ignition module, Ignition module to immobiliser, immobiliser to starter relay (where ever that is), starter relay to starter solenoid.
Personally, I’d head for the middle (immobiliser)
Edit.... Here https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Edited by RUSSELLM on Thursday 23 July 18:58
RUSSELLM said:
Ok.
I take it from that, that when you press the start button, you’re not getting the switched 12v+ to the immobiliser ?
I'm not sorry, what wire on the immobiliser you are refering to? Is it the "Green 15/30 " in position 1 or the "Red 30+" in position 2?I take it from that, that when you press the start button, you’re not getting the switched 12v+ to the immobiliser ?
Edited by RUSSELLM on Friday 24th July 08:48

notaping said:
If you haven't already looked here - you'll find all the wiring diagrams at http://tvr-cerbera.co.uk/wiringdiagrams.html
The one you're interested in is CEPD003C Rear Harness Part 1.jpg. Up at the top left you'll find the Ignition ECU. Check the signal on 'Starter Drive' (W/R) when you press the start button. If you get a signal, then that ECU's ok. Move on to the Immobiliser ECU. W/R in - check the signal's ok there. W/R out - check the signal's ok there. Move on to the fuse box and the starter relay - CEPDF81A Fusebox.jpg
Unfortunately there are no shortcuts in something like this. Just methodically plodding through it. However, as a guess I'd say the timing circuit in the Ignition ECU is suspect. If the capacitor in the timing circuit has failed - the delay would get longer as the capacitor was failing and finally give up the ghost altogether. You've indicated the start delay got longer before it finally stopped working. Open up the Ignition ECU and look for any suspect capacitors.
Good luck :-)
I looked a little more a the wire diagram and need to do a bit more testing, I guessThe one you're interested in is CEPD003C Rear Harness Part 1.jpg. Up at the top left you'll find the Ignition ECU. Check the signal on 'Starter Drive' (W/R) when you press the start button. If you get a signal, then that ECU's ok. Move on to the Immobiliser ECU. W/R in - check the signal's ok there. W/R out - check the signal's ok there. Move on to the fuse box and the starter relay - CEPDF81A Fusebox.jpg
Unfortunately there are no shortcuts in something like this. Just methodically plodding through it. However, as a guess I'd say the timing circuit in the Ignition ECU is suspect. If the capacitor in the timing circuit has failed - the delay would get longer as the capacitor was failing and finally give up the ghost altogether. You've indicated the start delay got longer before it finally stopped working. Open up the Ignition ECU and look for any suspect capacitors.
Good luck :-)

Problem solved 
I found a shortage between the wires marked with red and Green below. Therefor when pushing either of the buttons the result was the same, the system was "asked" to start and stop at the same time which caused the "flicking".
Good to be on the road again.
Thanks, to all the ideas and support provide from your all. Very much appreciated.


I found a shortage between the wires marked with red and Green below. Therefor when pushing either of the buttons the result was the same, the system was "asked" to start and stop at the same time which caused the "flicking".
Good to be on the road again.
Thanks, to all the ideas and support provide from your all. Very much appreciated.

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