Coolant, tap water, de-ionized water or distilled water?

Coolant, tap water, de-ionized water or distilled water?

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Discussion

Noesph

Original Poster:

965 posts

103 months

Saturday 6th April 2013
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As title. Is a tap water, coolant 50/50 mix (Glysantin G33 - psa 9735.k4) ok. Or is putting distilled water (or de-ionized), coolant 50/50 mix in over the top. My thinking is the water is pretty hard around here (going by my kettle).

Being a wet liner engine I want to try and avoid galvanic corrosion with the steel liners and ally block, and I don't want all its insides getting all scaled up like an old kettle.

So pretty much, which water the best for mixing with coolant?

DocArbathnot

18,645 posts

137 months

Saturday 6th April 2013
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I use rain water. I don't know ifq this is right or wrong,

williredale

2,866 posts

106 months

Saturday 6th April 2013
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How much are you getting through? Before I replaced my heater matrix I was getting through a lot of coolant so was just topping up with tap water. Having replaced it though I use demonised water bought from the petrol station.

ETA. That should be de-ionised water not demonised water although that should be fine too! Bloody auto correct!

Edited by williredale on Saturday 6th April 09:22

Noesph

Original Poster:

965 posts

103 months

Saturday 6th April 2013
quotequote all
Not getting through any. Next weekend I'm changing the cam belt and water pump, it needs to be drained to change the pump, so I thought I might as well put new coolant in as well.

williredale

2,866 posts

106 months

Saturday 6th April 2013
quotequote all
Noesph said:
Not getting through any. Next weekend I'm changing the cam belt and water pump, it needs to be drained to change the pump, so I thought I might as well put new coolant in as well.
Not sure if distilled or de-ionised is best but both are cheap considering. Definitely worth changing the coolant as what came out of mine was pretty grim. I wouldn't have wanted to reuse it.

dmitsi

3,583 posts

174 months

Monday 8th April 2013
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Deionized water, it's what we use in development engines. Is much purer than distilled water.

Jimmy No Hands

3,292 posts

110 months

Monday 8th April 2013
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I swore by deionized water for years, always bought a 5L battery top up when doing coolant changes and used that. Was reading Practical Classic last month and they said never use deionized and stick with tap. confused Who knows, I doubt it'd make a hell of a lot of difference anyway.

Mr2Mike

20,143 posts

209 months

Monday 8th April 2013
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dmitsi said:
Deionized water, it's what we use in development engines. Is much purer than distilled water.
The other way around, distillation removes minerals and organic material. Deionizing removes only minerals.

Either is more than adequate for coolant. I have only ever used tap water, but I live in a soft water area.

dmitsi

3,583 posts

174 months

Monday 8th April 2013
quotequote all
I mean purer as in the resistance or amount of solute. DI removes a higher percentage of minerals and is less conductive, therefore purer. As you say both are suitable for coolant mixtures, but when you start using it for scientific purposes you would always use DI, it will probably have been distilled first, and then any bacteria created from the DI resin can be removed with activated carbon.

Not applicable to use in coolant because as soon as you expose the stored water it screams out for ions, so a pretty futile argument. Then sticking it in an engine will pretty much undo any efforts you've made to treat the water.

So in answer to the OP, use whatever you like, but don't mix blue and orange coolants as you'll create sludge wink

Locknut

620 posts

91 months

Monday 8th April 2013
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There is only a certain volume of water in the coolant, possibly as little as 3 litres, and that only contains a tiny amount of lime or calcium or whatever. There will be no more minerals to settle out after that tiny amount. The kettle example is totally different because it is filled with new water every time it is used and accumulates a lot of limescale over time. The same goes for washing machines, immersion heaters etc. The tiny amount of minerals in a single fill of coolant is harmless and I have always used tap water for this reason.

Steffan

10,362 posts

182 months

Monday 8th April 2013
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DocArbathnot said:
I use rain water. I don't know ifq this is right or wrong,
Depending on the contamination on collection that should be pretty soft water. All natural water in the UK will have some impurities it is a question of degree. Rainwater collected on glass stored in glass should be OK. You could try approved rust inhibitors particularly where alloy/cast iron/steel are in close contact with the water.

nsa

1,474 posts

182 months

Thursday 11th April 2013
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Locknut said:
There is only a certain volume of water in the coolant, possibly as little as 3 litres, and that only contains a tiny amount of lime or calcium or whatever. There will be no more minerals to settle out after that tiny amount. The kettle example is totally different because it is filled with new water every time it is used and accumulates a lot of limescale over time. The same goes for washing machines, immersion heaters etc. The tiny amount of minerals in a single fill of coolant is harmless and I have always used tap water for this reason.
I love PH sometimes. Makes complete sense. Thanks.

Noesph

Original Poster:

965 posts

103 months

Sunday 14th April 2013
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It does make sense, anyway I'm going for tap water.

I found this, after a fair bit of searching.

http://www.coler.de/col/sicherheitsdatenblaetter/b...

Water hardness 0 to 20 dGH (0 to 3.6 mmol/l)

and these (as I'm on the border line)

http://www.waterplc.com/waterquality/L21.pdf

Hardness 1.94 (millimol/l)

http://www.waterplc.com/waterquality/L19.pdf

Hardness 2.33 (millimol/l)

So, the tap water in the area is within there limits.

Mark300zx

1,119 posts

206 months

Sunday 14th April 2013
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IIRC deionised exchanges hardness salts for salts that don't produce hardness.

Distilled contains the least contaminants, rainwater should be very similar depending on the materials you have on your roof?

If you go to your local aquarium shop they will sell you reverse osmosis water which is virtually as pure as you can get.

I reserve the right to make multiple mistakes due to drinking an immense quantity of wine HIC!

Rovinghawk

13,300 posts

112 months

Friday 3rd May 2013
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Noesph said:
It does make sense, anyway I'm going for tap water.
Come & have a look at the limescale inside a pipe I just took off my car (previous owner used tap water) and then decide whether you want to do so.

RH

Mr2Mike

20,143 posts

209 months

Friday 3rd May 2013
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Rovinghawk said:
Come & have a look at the limescale inside a pipe I just took off my car (previous owner used tap water) and then decide whether you want to do so.

RH
Presumably the previous owner refilled the cooling system with tap water every day if there was any significant limescale...

fuzzypicture

26 posts

85 months

Friday 3rd May 2013
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I have been using the water from our tumble drier when replacing the whole lot, but just use tap water if topping up.

Evoluzione

3,608 posts

197 months

Friday 3rd May 2013
quotequote all
Rovinghawk said:
Come & have a look at the limescale inside a pipe I just took off my car (previous owner used tap water) and then decide whether you want to do so.

RH
Pointless post without a pic.

one eyed mick

1,189 posts

115 months

Saturday 4th May 2013
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If it cools the engine ok tap water + correct anti freeze is as good as any thing on the planet for 99% of NORMAL aplications why spend a fortune ?

Rovinghawk

13,300 posts

112 months

Monday 6th May 2013
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Mr2Mike said:
Presumably the previous owner refilled the cooling system with tap water every day if there was any significant limescale...
The pipe in question had a crack which led to quite a bad leak, so I'd say he'd filled it up pretty regularly rather than sorting out the problem.

RH