Transmission judder on MX5
Discussion
Been driving my girlfriend's MX5 this week-end. It is a 2002 car with about 9k miles on the clock. Problem is that, from standstill in 1st the whole drive train shudders like a b*stard as you pull away. It feels just as if the engine/gearbox mounts are perished but the car shows no other symptoms of this. Anyone else come across this?
jazzybee said:
Common problem: Read the current status here:
www.mx5ocforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=10490
Thanks - everything I needed to know & much appreciated.
P
I tried a suggestion from someone on the MX-5.com site below and it's cured my clutch judder. It worked for me but anyone who tries this does so at their own risk obviously. Hope it helps.
My method was as follows:
1. Park the car and apply handbrake.
2. Chock the front wheels (in my case against a kerb in a parking space at home).
3. Start the engine, depress clutch and engage 5th gear.
4. Rev the engine to 2000rpm and then slowly let the clutch out until you feel it start to bite.
5. Let the clutch out until the revs drop by 500rpm and then hold it steady for about 90secs.
6. I then repeated the process twice more but only for 30seconds each time.
7. I then let it cool for a few minutes, then did it one final time more for 1 minute.
8. Switch off engine and leave to cool (I left it overnight).
It would seem that there is now a different level of friction between clutch and flywheel which simply doesn't judder. This could be because a layer has been removed from the surface of the clutch or something else but for now it seems ok.
I'll report back in a few days/weeks and let you know if it's still ok.
Original link: http://www.mx-5.com/Forum/Room/Topic/?topicId=1433...
Clutch Judder
Posted: Apr 06 2010 Views: 54
I know the problem of clutch judder is well known on these cars and I am also aware that if your out of warranty then its hard cheese.
I had this problem on my 2002 Pheonix. After searching the forum for a fix I decided to go for my own remedy which i have used before on a well worn Mini that I used to own. It takes about ten minutes, costs nowt and has worked.
So here we go , take the car out for a short run to warm it up. Park on an incline, engage 4th gear or 5th whatever and apply handbrake. Dip the clutch and start the engine. Then slowly engage the clutch up to biting point and keep it there for a couple of minutes. This has the effect of planing the clutch surfaces i think. I waited until I could just smell friction material burning slighly and then switced off. Allow the clutch to cool down then drive home and leave the car overnight. Next morning start up and go (no clutch judder).
Its a bit "brute force" but it seems to work, and it only takes a few hundred miles off the clutch life. As I say it worked for me and it would be interesting to hear others views.
Thanks
Paul
My response after trying it....
Paul, I'd like to to thank you for this post, I tried your suggestion last night and for the first time since purchasing our MX5 over a year ago there was no judder this morning!
I was considering a replacement clutch in the near future at a quoted cost of £350+, but for now this seems to have done the trick.
I fully agree with your synopsis that the slipping of the clutch effectively plains or burns away a layer of contaminated material from the surface of the clutch and/or the fly wheel and does little damage to parts that would have been replaced soon anyway if it hadn't worked.
My method was as follows:
1. Park the car and apply handbrake.
2. Chock the front wheels (in my case against a kerb in a parking space at home).
3. Start the engine, depress clutch and engage 5th gear.
4. Rev the engine to 2000rpm and then slowly let the clutch out until you feel it start to bite.
5. Let the clutch out until the revs have dropped by 500rpm and then hold it steady for about 90 seconds.
6. I then repeated the process twice more but only for 30seconds each time.
7. I then let it cool for a few minutes, then did it one final time more for 1 minute.
8. Switch off engine and leave to cool (I left it overnight).
It would seem that there is now a different level of friction between clutch and flywheel which simply doesn't judder. This could be because a layer has been removed from the surface of the clutch or something else but for now it seems ok.
I'll report back in a few days/weeks and let you know if it's still ok.
Cheers
Neil
My method was as follows:
1. Park the car and apply handbrake.
2. Chock the front wheels (in my case against a kerb in a parking space at home).
3. Start the engine, depress clutch and engage 5th gear.
4. Rev the engine to 2000rpm and then slowly let the clutch out until you feel it start to bite.
5. Let the clutch out until the revs drop by 500rpm and then hold it steady for about 90secs.
6. I then repeated the process twice more but only for 30seconds each time.
7. I then let it cool for a few minutes, then did it one final time more for 1 minute.
8. Switch off engine and leave to cool (I left it overnight).
It would seem that there is now a different level of friction between clutch and flywheel which simply doesn't judder. This could be because a layer has been removed from the surface of the clutch or something else but for now it seems ok.
I'll report back in a few days/weeks and let you know if it's still ok.
Original link: http://www.mx-5.com/Forum/Room/Topic/?topicId=1433...
Clutch Judder
Posted: Apr 06 2010 Views: 54
I know the problem of clutch judder is well known on these cars and I am also aware that if your out of warranty then its hard cheese.
I had this problem on my 2002 Pheonix. After searching the forum for a fix I decided to go for my own remedy which i have used before on a well worn Mini that I used to own. It takes about ten minutes, costs nowt and has worked.
So here we go , take the car out for a short run to warm it up. Park on an incline, engage 4th gear or 5th whatever and apply handbrake. Dip the clutch and start the engine. Then slowly engage the clutch up to biting point and keep it there for a couple of minutes. This has the effect of planing the clutch surfaces i think. I waited until I could just smell friction material burning slighly and then switced off. Allow the clutch to cool down then drive home and leave the car overnight. Next morning start up and go (no clutch judder).
Its a bit "brute force" but it seems to work, and it only takes a few hundred miles off the clutch life. As I say it worked for me and it would be interesting to hear others views.
Thanks
Paul
My response after trying it....
Paul, I'd like to to thank you for this post, I tried your suggestion last night and for the first time since purchasing our MX5 over a year ago there was no judder this morning!
I was considering a replacement clutch in the near future at a quoted cost of £350+, but for now this seems to have done the trick.
I fully agree with your synopsis that the slipping of the clutch effectively plains or burns away a layer of contaminated material from the surface of the clutch and/or the fly wheel and does little damage to parts that would have been replaced soon anyway if it hadn't worked.
My method was as follows:
1. Park the car and apply handbrake.
2. Chock the front wheels (in my case against a kerb in a parking space at home).
3. Start the engine, depress clutch and engage 5th gear.
4. Rev the engine to 2000rpm and then slowly let the clutch out until you feel it start to bite.
5. Let the clutch out until the revs have dropped by 500rpm and then hold it steady for about 90 seconds.
6. I then repeated the process twice more but only for 30seconds each time.
7. I then let it cool for a few minutes, then did it one final time more for 1 minute.
8. Switch off engine and leave to cool (I left it overnight).
It would seem that there is now a different level of friction between clutch and flywheel which simply doesn't judder. This could be because a layer has been removed from the surface of the clutch or something else but for now it seems ok.
I'll report back in a few days/weeks and let you know if it's still ok.
Cheers
Neil
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