Coolant temperature sensor?
Discussion
All, Using the part number from the parts list on this forum I ordered a new CTS ERR2081. Part looks the same as original but the garage have today fitted it and the engine will not even start with this sensor in it. Either it's faulty or is not suitable.
I've rung Rimmers who say that ERR2081 is for the diesel Landrover and will give an incorrect reading but they don't stock the correct sensor. I'm going to speak to Neil at ML Performance tomorrow but anyone else had this issue with using the ERR2081 part number? Thanks.
I've rung Rimmers who say that ERR2081 is for the diesel Landrover and will give an incorrect reading but they don't stock the correct sensor. I'm going to speak to Neil at ML Performance tomorrow but anyone else had this issue with using the ERR2081 part number? Thanks.
Hi Keith, I was the one who added ERR2081 to the list and the 400SX is currently running with it and just passed the MoT on emissions too so it's deffo compatible. Extra bonus is that it's all brass nut unlike the plastic rubbish we are being fobbed off with.
Rimmer's would say it's for something else wouldn't they so they can charge extra for an "SDi" one.
I would say your new one is faulty probably, or else something else got disturbed when fitting it. For example brittle wiring in the ECU loom, or the plug isn't plugged in, or the terminals in it are fuackered.
They are very easy to test just stick an ohmmeter across the two terminals and you should see 300 ohms +/- 100 when cold. That's what you need for starting.
Rimmer's would say it's for something else wouldn't they so they can charge extra for an "SDi" one.
I would say your new one is faulty probably, or else something else got disturbed when fitting it. For example brittle wiring in the ECU loom, or the plug isn't plugged in, or the terminals in it are fuackered.
They are very easy to test just stick an ohmmeter across the two terminals and you should see 300 ohms +/- 100 when cold. That's what you need for starting.
adam quantrill said:
Hi Keith, I was the one who added ERR2081 to the list and the 400SX is currently running with it and just passed the MoT on emissions too so it's deffo compatible. Extra bonus is that it's all brass nut unlike the plastic rubbish we are being fobbed off with.
Rimmer's would say it's for something else wouldn't they so they can charge extra for an "SDi" one.
I would say your new one is faulty probably, or else something else got disturbed when fitting it. For example brittle wiring in the ECU loom, or the plug isn't plugged in, or the terminals in it are fuackered.
They are very easy to test just stick an ohmmeter across the two terminals and you should see 300 ohms +/- 100 when cold. That's what you need for starting.
Thanks for the reply Adam - I'll get them to double check the resistance first thing, before I order a new one. If okay then wiring. They've already made a new section of loom to pick up the dissy to coil wiring as the old wiring was shot. It might be the same. I've got a full spare loom but that's on standby for the 390SE. Cheers.Rimmer's would say it's for something else wouldn't they so they can charge extra for an "SDi" one.
I would say your new one is faulty probably, or else something else got disturbed when fitting it. For example brittle wiring in the ECU loom, or the plug isn't plugged in, or the terminals in it are fuackered.
They are very easy to test just stick an ohmmeter across the two terminals and you should see 300 ohms +/- 100 when cold. That's what you need for starting.
Good luck. If the resistance looks OK at the sensor then get them to pull the ECU multiplug and check the resistance at the pins (all the way through the loom).
IF THAT STILL LOOKS GOOD (this is important) then get them to check it while wiggling the loom too. Because when you start cranking the engine you'll rattle it about.
This stuff isn't hard you just have to be methodical.
IF THAT STILL LOOKS GOOD (this is important) then get them to check it while wiggling the loom too. Because when you start cranking the engine you'll rattle it about.
This stuff isn't hard you just have to be methodical.
Hi Keith...Have you checked the plug connector and wires also..Remember what happened with me...
I used this one for mine and is perfect...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-3-5...
I used this one for mine and is perfect...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-3-5...
mrzigazaga said:
Hi Keith...Have you checked the plug connector and wires also..Remember what happened with me...
I used this one for mine and is perfect...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-3-5...
Yep, pretty much the first thing I checked! Will double check resistance but think the new sensor might be duff as the old sensor at least allowed the engine to run. Cheers.I used this one for mine and is perfect...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-3-5...
Hello! I have the same issue I had before- engine cutting out on throttle when warmed up- which was fixed by replacing this coolant temp sensor. Last time it was done by my mechanic amongst other jobs.
The sensors sound like they're pretty rubbish, so I am assuming it has just failed. Before i replace it I just want to double-check the correct sensor and where to get it. Is the pic below right:
And is ETC8496 the correct part, for example- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-3-5...
Thanks!!
The sensors sound like they're pretty rubbish, so I am assuming it has just failed. Before i replace it I just want to double-check the correct sensor and where to get it. Is the pic below right:
And is ETC8496 the correct part, for example- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY-3-5...
Thanks!!
I think there is a confusion. There is the coolant temp sensor and the engine temp sensor. The coolant temp sensor is connected to the temp gauge and gives a reading of the water temp on the temp gauge. Engine temp sensor senses the engine temperature and can effect the running of the engine. In your case it must be the engine temp sensor you need to change and that looks like the part but I'm not sure if it's the right one.
However there are many reasons why the engine is not running well when warmed up and may not necessarily be the engine temp sensor at fault.
Tony. TCB.
However there are many reasons why the engine is not running well when warmed up and may not necessarily be the engine temp sensor at fault.
Tony. TCB.
Edited by ElvisWedgely on Saturday 1st October 16:42
So is this post of Mr Wedg1e's wrong then:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
"Yes. Front left: thermotime switch. Behind that: coolant temp sensor FOR THE ECU so it knows how hot the engine is. Both screwed vertically downward into inlet manifold.
Front RIGHT, screwed horizontally into the front wall of the inlet manifold, is the gauge sender."
You can see how there could be a confusion
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
"Yes. Front left: thermotime switch. Behind that: coolant temp sensor FOR THE ECU so it knows how hot the engine is. Both screwed vertically downward into inlet manifold.
Front RIGHT, screwed horizontally into the front wall of the inlet manifold, is the gauge sender."
You can see how there could be a confusion
General Zod said:
Great! Thanks very much AQ
Ignore Elvis - he's confused! Adam and Wedgie certainly do know what they're talking about. The coolant temperature sensor (CTS) is the one which you have correctly marked on the inlet manifold, and sends it's reading to the ECU. Part number stated is correct, although the last one I bought was an Intermotor equivalent. You can test them by taking resistance readings across a range of operating temperatures (there are values in the Bible I think), but by the time you've removed it to test in hot water, you might as well replace it for the relatively low cost. I assume your cold start injector is disconnected? Edited by Number 7 on Saturday 1st October 18:08
I recently had a problem which was CTS sensor related. It was some how going open circuit and causing massive over fuelling / stalling / smoke / general crapness
I stripped all the black tape off all the wires ( after checking all components) and it turned out to be a bad ground. Don't underestimated the need for a good clean solid ground for making the electric stuff to work as it should. All it was was the outter coating had split enough to cause the issue, re did the grounds, new heat shrink covering on issue area and new tape and bingo. Perfect service resumed
I stripped all the black tape off all the wires ( after checking all components) and it turned out to be a bad ground. Don't underestimated the need for a good clean solid ground for making the electric stuff to work as it should. All it was was the outter coating had split enough to cause the issue, re did the grounds, new heat shrink covering on issue area and new tape and bingo. Perfect service resumed
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