POR15 vs Rust Bullet

POR15 vs Rust Bullet

Author
Discussion

BrianT

Original Poster:

48 posts

188 months

Thursday 20th October 2005
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I know the chassis debates are continuing but just one question regarding these. Has anyone had any experience of "Rust Bullet"? This is an American product which claims to be better than POR15 on their website. I have not used either of them but intend to do some chassis painting soon. Rust bullet suppliers in the UK are at

Highfield House
Ipplepen Road
Marldon
Paignton
Devon
Tq3 1se

E-Mail: thebusseller@yahoo.co.uk

Tel: 44 (0)1803 527961 Mobile 44 (0)7971 827 006

Unfortunately the two people who run this are out of the country until 29th October.

tigertiger

554 posts

197 months

Thursday 20th October 2005
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I went for B1 epoxy mastic and dinitrol 4941 / 3125 (www.rust.co.uk) in the end. They have some convincing salt spray corrosion data.

Only time will tell....

victormeldrew

8,293 posts

241 months

Friday 21st October 2005
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POR-15 is amazing stuff, so it would need to go some to beat it.

Couldn't help noticing that their website comapred costs with POR-15, and came out a lot cheaper. Not surprising when they suggest that you need:

Marine Clean
Metal Ready
POR 15
PO 15 2nd coat
Chassis Coat/Black Cote

You don't!

Since you can (and should) paint POR-15 directly onto rust, the first two are optional and mainly for treating new steel. It doesn't need a second coat. It only needs a top coat if exposed to UV, and then only for cosmetic reasons. You actually need a special tie-coat to be able to paint over it anyway - I'm surprised they didn't factor some of that in as well!

They claim Rust Bullet is effective for 10 years, and beats POR-15 on price. POR-15 claims it offers protection for 30 years.

You can even use POR-15 as a gel for fibreglass repairs! Painted on concrete it will stop cracks from spreading. Its pretty tough stuff.

Rust Bullet has to have two coats, as the second fills in pin holes in the first. It will then form a "nearly impenetrable" barrier (their words, my emphasis). POR-15 will seal completely with one coat, and there is nothing "nearly" about it - it is completely non-porous.

I suspect Rust Bullet may be a better product for treating new steel. You decide if your TVR chassis fits that description!

Oh yes; the test results for Rust Bullet against lots of other products also happened to include Hammerite. It did work better than bare metal, I'll give it that.

Wildfire

9,420 posts

216 months

Friday 21st October 2005
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I am in the middle of cleaning my chassis down and am going for a 2 pack Epoxy followed by Tectyl.

chassis 33

6,193 posts

246 months

Friday 21st October 2005
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Just to add me experience to the debate.

When I was restoring the Tasmin I used POR15. I stripped the chassis, got it sand blasted and welded in new tube as needed. I then used metal ready to prime the chassis and POR15 over the top. The adhesion of the paint to the original chassis was like the proverbial involving blankets. However adhesion to the new metal was quite frankly pants, it coated it and sealed find but i could peel the POR off (great for taking moulds!!!)

What I intend to do with the Chimaera chassis is to replace the rotten out riggers, send the body and chassis to get its roll cage fitted, once back take the chassis for sandblasting, patch up any minor rot that the sandblasting shows up, then POR the whole thing, hopefully with the new metal sandblasted it will give decent key for the POR to attach onto.

The suspension components will be Hammerited simply because I dont expect them to last that long before needing replacement/modification/strengthening and would much prefer to clean hammerite off to weld strengthening bits on than POR. A wire brush on a drill is useless against POR, in the past I've had to resort to brushing it with the angle grinder, although I now have a knotted wire disc for the grinder do maybe that will work.

Regards
Iain

BrianT

Original Poster:

48 posts

188 months

Friday 21st October 2005
quotequote all
Thanks a lot guys. Always good to get a few opinions. Some of you have had to do some drastic work. Mine is initially going to be a scrape off and paint as much as I can as a preventative measure for the future and some peace of mind. I hope there is nothing waiting to bite me in the arse but who knows. I have access to a four post lift and can keep it on there for possibly a week, leaving time for it to dry out before scraping off etc. I use the car everyday so a week off is all I can afford. Thanks again.

victormeldrew

8,293 posts

241 months

Friday 21st October 2005
quotequote all
chassis33 said:
However adhesion to the new metal was quite frankly pants
Yup, thats why you need the Metal Ready for new metal, to etch the surface. I suspect the "test" where that other product out performed POR-15 was done on a sheet of new, untreated steel.

It is a good point - if you have surface rust already POR-15 is unbeatable, but if you strip the lot down to bright clean metal make sure you prep it first with either Metal Ready or a similar etching fluid.

It think its fair to say though, if you are coating the entire circumference of tubing then the POR-15 will adhere to itself anyway, and will be fine. Just like a tough polyurethane tube over the top of the metal.

Good luck with trying to get it off again by the way! I think there is a specific stripper for POR-15, which might be easier than mechanical abrasion. You're as likely to abrade the tubing away as the POR-15 coating.

chassis 33

6,193 posts

246 months

Friday 21st October 2005
quotequote all
That was with metal ready as a prep on the chassis, old and new metal.

There is a POR-15 solvent for thinning and brush cleaning, but you'd need some pretty nasty chemicals to act as stripper on dry POR.

BTW while were giving them a big thumbs up, their Marine Clean degreaser is good stuff too, smells and works just like the stuff they use to clean oil rigs that my brother brings back for me from Aberdeen every so often, I'd imagine it's a very similar spec.
There is one POR product I wasnt too taken with, but I cant remember what it is, so obviously not something i need too often.

Regards
Iain

victormeldrew

8,293 posts

241 months

Friday 21st October 2005
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POR-strip

When I stripped my chassis I made sure any shiny metal was abraded with rough emery paper before applying the Metal Ready, to give a good key for the POR-15. Seemed to work, its all still on there after 3 years!

BrianT

Original Poster:

48 posts

188 months

Friday 18th November 2005
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Finaly finished the chassis strip, marine-clean, metal-ready, POR15-paint & Waxoyl . Decided to use POR15 as the rust bullet people didn't get back to me. If POR15 is as good on the chassis as it is on you hands I'll be well pleased, I just cannot get it off! The chassis turned out to be in very good order with only slight work needed especially to the two rails tucked under the sills, good for a 1997 Chimaera . Thanks to all for your contributions. Brian

cerby4.5

1,643 posts

205 months

Friday 18th November 2005
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Just bought some POR15 for my Chims chassis/underbody, fantastic stuff.
Paint it on, let it dry, job done!!!

victormeldrew

8,293 posts

241 months

Friday 18th November 2005
quotequote all
BrianT said:
If POR15 is as good on the chassis as it is on you hands I'll be well pleased, I just cannot get it off!
Can't say you weren't warned mate!

If you have any left over you might like try a little experiment. Pour a little into a platic cup - something flexible so it will come out when set. I used one of those colourful plastic kids beakers from Ikea. About a couple of cm should be enough. Leave this somewhere to set for a couple of days, then press it out of the cup.

You now have a home made hockey puck. Try bashing it with a hammer to see just how tough this stuff is. It can take a serious battering with no effect.

Yes, I really should get out more.

rust bullet

3 posts

172 months

Friday 22nd December 2006
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We now have an online shop www.rustbullet.co.uk/shop

Having read the above all i can add is that i also play with and restore cars, where possible we strip off the old paint, 2 coats of rust bullet, when dry scuff the rust bullet and spray with a 2k top coat, great results.
Will dig out some pics and post.
Simon

900T-R

20,370 posts

221 months

Saturday 23rd December 2006
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On my steel-bodied car I've had good luck so far with Fertan rust dissolver (which proceeds to for a thin protective layer over the non-corroded steel after it's done its work) followed by a coat of Ferpox epoxy primer (lower engine bay after lifting said engine for a performance rebuild) I also injected Fertan in cavities under high pressure, followed by flushing them with water and injection of cavity wax. That was four years and a half ago and as far as I can determine the car is still 100% structurally rust-free.

Based on this experience (and because I still have three quarters of a tin of Ferpox left ) I'll be treating the outriggers of the Chim the same way (after it arrives): jet wash chassis, clean outriggers from remnants of Waxoyl and flaking powder coating with wire brush and sandpaper, then apply a coat of Fertan or two, then seal with epoxy primer and after that has dried, liberally spray Waxoyl/Tectyl/Dinitrol or whatever on chassis. Sounds sensible enough, no?

biggiles

949 posts

189 months

Saturday 23rd December 2006
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I'm coating my chassis with Rust Bullet at the moment, following removing the rust using Hammerite Rust Removing Gel (excellent product) and wire brushes.

Watch out for the access- getting to the outriggers is extremely difficult. I have a two post lift which helps enormously, but getting the paint (or even a wire brush) above the outriggers is very difficult.

Very impressed by the Rust Bullet so far- sticks like glue and is very hard indeed.

v8 animal

5,486 posts

174 months

Saturday 23rd December 2006
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I bought some por 15 for my chassis in black.Degreased most of the chassis now and the chassis colour is grey.
Off course the colour won't match and i was only going to paint the parts that i could reach.
Thinking now to paint using their primer and grey hammerite.
A good combination?
V8 Animal

Rum Runner

2,338 posts

181 months

Saturday 23rd December 2006
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After a good clean up , first kurust which makes the rust turn black , then 2 part epoxy from yacht chandler , followed by 2 part grey 1 part silver smooth write ( similar colour to original ), then spray stonechip grey or black over the forward outrigger behind front wheel and in front of rear wheel body mount, the stonechip black can also be used a long the outrigger and covering the edge of the body / sill where the original black line goes up to and under rear quarter panel and a long the length of the body . Final job waxoyle.
And it should look like this , oh and still does.

www.chimaerapages.com/article_rust.php


Edited by Rum Runner on Saturday 23 December 22:51

spend

12,581 posts

215 months

Sunday 24th December 2006
quotequote all
Rum Runner said:
After a good clean up , first kurust which makes the rust turn black , then 2 part epoxy from yacht chandler , followed by 2 part grey 1 part silver smooth write ( similar colour to original ), then spray stonechip grey or black over the forward outrigger behind front wheel and in front of rear wheel body mount, the stonechip black can also be used a long the outrigger and covering the edge of the body / sill where the original black line goes up to and under rear quarter panel and a long the length of the body . Final job waxoyle.
And it should look like this , oh and still does.

www.chimaerapages.com/article_rust.php


Edited by Rum Runner on Saturday 23 December 22:51


Sounds like you may have affected the power/weight ratio I reckon.

reparent

1 posts

157 months

Friday 14th March 2008
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I signed up just to give my opinion on the Rust bullet product.

I bought it last year and had great expectations from it. I had a little bit of surface rust just starting on my civic rear end quarter panel. I decided to give Rust Bullet a try after reading all the good stuff they had to say on their web site. 5-6 months later after applying the product just as indicated
1. Make sure its clean
2. Apply first coat and let dry (suppose to bond with the rust)
3. Apply second coat and thats it

It cracked! It didn't even lasted 5 months in our cold winter weather here in Canada! And the rust is coming out from the non cracked part as well, I can see the rust color taking over the nice hard gray finish that I thought would be impenetrable! I didn't apply any paint over it because I really wanted to see how it would work, if it had lasted one year with no rust I would have painted over it but I couldn't get that far!!

Based on my experience I wouldn't recommend it!

raceboy

12,323 posts

244 months

Friday 14th March 2008
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Think I need to spend a little time under the car getting dirty, POR15 looks the way to go, but numpty question coming up, I can find it for sale on the Interweb but where am I likely to find it on the high street? scratchchin