A little black box - wonder what it is?
Discussion
Theres a little black box in the wiring on my car, and I've tried to identify it before. Its a black aluminium extrusion enclosing a PCB with a couple of FETs on it, some resistors, some caps and an NE555 timer IC. It has a 6 pin connector on it in 2 rows of 3, and has a selection of moderately beefy red, blue and black wires coming out of it.
It is NOT the Pektron wash/wipe module, I have already identified that one...
Any ideas? I cant see where the wires go, and the colour coding isnt that consistent... There are few markings on it.
Ta.
Ed.
It is NOT the Pektron wash/wipe module, I have already identified that one...
Any ideas? I cant see where the wires go, and the colour coding isnt that consistent... There are few markings on it.
Ta.
Ed.
From Wikipedia:
Dim-Dip Lamps
U.K. regulations briefly required vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1987 to be equipped with a dim-dip device[27] or special running lamps, except such vehicles as comply fully with ECE Regulation 48 regarding installation of lighting equipment. A dim-dip device operates the low beam headlamps (called "dipped beam" in the UK) at between 10% and 20% of normal low-beam intensity. The running lamps permitted as an alternative to dim-dip were required to emit at least 200 candela straight ahead, and no more than 800 candela in any direction. In practice, most vehicles were equipped with the dim-dip option rather than the running lamps.[27]
The dim-dip systems were not intended for daytime use as DRLs. Rather, they operated if the engine was running and the driver switched on the parking lamps (called "sidelights" in the UK). Dim-dip was intended to provide a nighttime "town beam" with intensity between that of the parking lamps commonly used at the time by British drivers in city traffic after dark, and dipped (low) beams; the former were considered insufficiently intense to provide improved conspicuity in conditions requiring it, while the latter were considered too glaring for safe use in built-up areas. The UK was the only country to require such dim-dip systems, though vehicles so equipped were sold in other Commonwealth countries with left-hand traffic.[28]
In 1988, the European Commission successfully prosecuted the UK government in the European Court of Justice, arguing that the UK requirement for dim-dip was illegal under EC directives prohibiting member states from enacting vehicle lighting requirements not contained in pan-European EC directives. As a result, the UK requirement for dim-dip was quashed.[27] Nevertheless, dim-dip systems remain permitted, and while such systems are not presently as common as they once were, dim-dip functionality was fitted on many new cars well into the 1990s.
So its nonsense then. That would explain the NE555 - its commonly used in PWM circuits to create a Switch Mode power supply of a given duty cycle - i.e. make the dip beams come on really dimly. Bunch of cack.
Dim-Dip Lamps
U.K. regulations briefly required vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1987 to be equipped with a dim-dip device[27] or special running lamps, except such vehicles as comply fully with ECE Regulation 48 regarding installation of lighting equipment. A dim-dip device operates the low beam headlamps (called "dipped beam" in the UK) at between 10% and 20% of normal low-beam intensity. The running lamps permitted as an alternative to dim-dip were required to emit at least 200 candela straight ahead, and no more than 800 candela in any direction. In practice, most vehicles were equipped with the dim-dip option rather than the running lamps.[27]
The dim-dip systems were not intended for daytime use as DRLs. Rather, they operated if the engine was running and the driver switched on the parking lamps (called "sidelights" in the UK). Dim-dip was intended to provide a nighttime "town beam" with intensity between that of the parking lamps commonly used at the time by British drivers in city traffic after dark, and dipped (low) beams; the former were considered insufficiently intense to provide improved conspicuity in conditions requiring it, while the latter were considered too glaring for safe use in built-up areas. The UK was the only country to require such dim-dip systems, though vehicles so equipped were sold in other Commonwealth countries with left-hand traffic.[28]
In 1988, the European Commission successfully prosecuted the UK government in the European Court of Justice, arguing that the UK requirement for dim-dip was illegal under EC directives prohibiting member states from enacting vehicle lighting requirements not contained in pan-European EC directives. As a result, the UK requirement for dim-dip was quashed.[27] Nevertheless, dim-dip systems remain permitted, and while such systems are not presently as common as they once were, dim-dip functionality was fitted on many new cars well into the 1990s.
So its nonsense then. That would explain the NE555 - its commonly used in PWM circuits to create a Switch Mode power supply of a given duty cycle - i.e. make the dip beams come on really dimly. Bunch of cack.
Yes the 555 would create a square wave fed into the FETs so they are either fully on or off, therefore the FET's don't dissapate much power even though they are probably pushing out 10A each.
It's a technique also used in train sets to get smooth variation of the speed.
I think this module might be behind the strange unexplained draining of my battery one day when the lights were supposed to be off - but at least one headlight was warm and seemed to be on even though it was down. perhaps the 555 or the FETs got 'latched up'.
Can't you just disconnect it?
I much prefer the 350i scheme where you can turn on the driving lights with the pods down - less wind resistance and I don't like the pods being up unless it's dark - I don't like seeing them much ;^)
It's a technique also used in train sets to get smooth variation of the speed.
I think this module might be behind the strange unexplained draining of my battery one day when the lights were supposed to be off - but at least one headlight was warm and seemed to be on even though it was down. perhaps the 555 or the FETs got 'latched up'.
Can't you just disconnect it?
I much prefer the 350i scheme where you can turn on the driving lights with the pods down - less wind resistance and I don't like the pods being up unless it's dark - I don't like seeing them much ;^)
Both my 89 350 and 400 have this unit.
Failed on me a number of times on the 350 with both lights being full on when switched off ! Lokked good at night could see a ring of light under the bonnet until the batery died. Took it off eventually and I think when side lights came on , then pods rose, but no dim dip which looked a bit silly. So mainly used dip every where instead of side lights !
Failed on me a number of times on the 350 with both lights being full on when switched off ! Lokked good at night could see a ring of light under the bonnet until the batery died. Took it off eventually and I think when side lights came on , then pods rose, but no dim dip which looked a bit silly. So mainly used dip every where instead of side lights !
gsx600 said:
Both my 89 350 and 400 have this unit.
Failed on me a number of times on the 350 with both lights being full on when switched off ! Lokked good at night could see a ring of light under the bonnet until the batery died. Took it off eventually and I think when side lights came on , then pods rose, but no dim dip which looked a bit silly. So mainly used dip every where instead of side lights !
Sounds like you just need a diode snipping out to stop the pods lifting on sidelights.Failed on me a number of times on the 350 with both lights being full on when switched off ! Lokked good at night could see a ring of light under the bonnet until the batery died. Took it off eventually and I think when side lights came on , then pods rose, but no dim dip which looked a bit silly. So mainly used dip every where instead of side lights !
pjtvr390se said:
I have one of these little beauties, how hard is it to get rid of?
Easy - just unplug it and cable tie the plug out of the way.Mine didn't work anyway !
It's piggybacked onto the existing wiring anyway hence why it's wired to one of the window lift motor fuses so it knows when the ignition is on, there should also be a fuse (No 15?) to supply the DIM dip which can also be removed.
Then you just need to cut the wire to keep the pods down until you turn on the dip / main - Avoiding the pods up but no light silliness.
mikeb said:
....Dont even get me started on what I used to do with an LM3909 or even the NE556's!!
Misspent youth I am afraid trying to blow things up!
MikeyB
I got into electronics via :cough: CB radio :cough: when the local 'rig doctor' tried to rip me off by offering me £3 for a set that had a blown PA transistor. A year later I had my ham radio licence (includes a C&G in electronics, effectively); for the last 28 years I've been bluffing my way through all sorts of kit - 16 years in the current job and although I could fix your x-ray set if it went wrong, I couldn't take an x-ray to save my life Misspent youth I am afraid trying to blow things up!
MikeyB
Five years after me, the same rig doctor got his ham licence... he was still a bull5hitter though
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