Mazda RX-7: PH Buying Guide
An icon of 90s Japanese performance cars, the RX-7 is now a rare classic - here's how to get the best
Power started at 255hp thanks to sequential turbocharging that meant the first turbine came on song at low revs, while the second didn't kick in until 4,500rpm. That meant 0-62mph in 5.9 seconds and an engine that was unusually smooth with a very different sound to most rivals' four- or six-cylinder units.
Power was increased by 10hp in 1996 for the Series 7 models, which used an improved ECU, while the Series 8 came with 280hp when it arrived at the beginning of 1999.
Praised for its handling and dynamic ability, the RX-7 still proved a tough sell in the UK and in other important markets around the world. By 1996, Mazda dropped it from its official UK line-up even after lowering the price to £26,000 from the initial £34,000.
Buyers stayed away and sales in the UK are estimated in the hundreds, with only 164 reportedly sold through dealers. However, there are many more imports available and the ease of tuning of the RX-7 has ensured its popularity with drifters, racers and track day fans.
It remains a great road car, too, so finding a looked after example now will entertain and excite drivers who appreciate the simple rear-wheel-drive coupe format. They have plenty to choose from thanks to R, RS, RZ RB, A-Spec and Touring versions, the latter fitted with a four-speed auto in place of the five-speed manual in all the others. You may also come across cars badged as an Efini, which was a Mazda's sports brand in Japan.
Rarity has pushed RX-7 FD prices up in recent years and buyers are now more likely to want an original car than one that's been modified. Prices for a genuine UK car start at £20,000 for an immaculate example. Half that will get you an import in good condition.
Search for Mazda RX7s here
PHer's view:
"The FD is a modern classic. The looks, the performance and that engine all set it apart from other coupes. Just glad I got one before prices go crazy."
John Salter
Introduction
Powertrain
Rolling Chassis
Body
Interior
At a glance
The 13B turbo can be wrung out to silly horsepower numbers, and those wanting even more can go for the 20B engine.
Australia has been modifying these for drag racing purposes for decades, and have many strong passes down the quarter mile. Coupled with relatively light weight, these make for a great car, just a shame that local support seems difficult here in the UK.
I still love my FD. It's not just the turbo rotary, it's the looks, the shrink-wrapped compactness, the turn-in, the balance, did I mention the way it looks?
There tend to be a lot of bad cars out there, so be careful. History, not just the service kind but also on a forum thread, is helpful; the more modified a car is, the more care is needed. Good FDs do exist!
If finding a good car is half the battle, finding a good specialist to maintain it is the other half. If you manage both, you're free to enjoy a really special, exciting car at what are still quite attainable prices.
Having said that, it doesn't need suspension mods unless you really want to get the best out of sticky rubber, the stock turbos are great when working, and the stock brakes hold up well on track with good pads, especially the RS-spec ones on the 17"-shod cars.
If you only drive on the road change the oil every 2,000-3,000 miles. Just use mineral 10w-40 to keep costs down as the rotary doesn't need synthetic.
If you track the car change the oil after a track day. The more time you spend at WOT the more oil you will use so don't expect 1L per 1,000 miles if you hoon everywhere.
MPG on the highway is about 24-26 mpg driving 70-80mph.
MPG in the city is about 14-18 mpg in London.
Finally, compression in the 7's and 8's bar is basically a new or low mileage motor. Compression in the 6s is just fine and will last several thousand miles. Car's will run with compression in the 5's just fine but then you are getting close to rebuild territory.
A bog standard rebuild of the entire motor will cost you about £2,500 to £3,000 by a specialist. But no one with a FD goes for a bog standard rebuild. You usually port it, use aftermarket apex seals and try to make more power via more boost or a larger single turbo.
I own a 1999 Type RS that is nearly standard like the car used in this piece.
Having said that, it doesn't need suspension mods unless you really want to get the best out of sticky rubber, the stock turbos are great when working, and the stock brakes hold up well on track with good pads, especially the RS-spec ones on the 17"-shod cars.
As above, prices start at £5k for ones needing work (well a fair bit) right up to £25k for a Spirit Type A but for that money it needs to be minty fresh.
Avoid at all costs the dreamers that are in the classifieds on here and eBay. Lots of Richard Rawling wannabes.
You need to start at like £8,000 to get anything that isn't going to require tons of cash to restore things like the paint, interior or motor immediately.
Anyway, the best cars listed on Pistonheads right now are these and I'm debating if I want a second one...
https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/...
https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/...
As above, prices start at £5k for ones needing work (well a fair bit) right up to £25k for a Spirit Type A but for that money it needs to be minty fresh.
Avoid at all costs the dreamers that are in the classifieds on here and eBay. Lots of Richard Rawling wannabes.
Gassing Station | General Gassing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff