New French TVR S owner

New French TVR S owner

Author
Discussion

Fefeu52

Original Poster:

198 posts

66 months

Saturday 2nd March 2019
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Work in progress...


MisterTee

319 posts

109 months

Saturday 2nd March 2019
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That looks very nice. Wish I was brave enough to tackle mine - it looks a lot like yours used to be!

Fefeu52

Original Poster:

198 posts

66 months

Monday 11th March 2019
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A lot of work this week-end :



The new dashboard is now in place. Central door / boot locking system operational. New vintage style car radio and new discreeter speaker grills.

Fefeu52

Original Poster:

198 posts

66 months

Wednesday 17th April 2019
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I finished the work inside. I replaced the steering wheel by a new Chinese one. The diameter is slightly bigger (14') but it 's an advantage with the S' heavy steering.



But with a TVR, as soon as you finish one side....you start another one biggrin

I replaced the old (2003) rear tires yesterday.

Now, I would like to solve the noisy tappet "problem". I made my research on the forum a found la lot of interesting information.

My hears (and mechanical experience) tell me my engine has hydraulic tappets.... The tappets are very noisy at startup, and quieter few seconds after the oil pressure rises 50 psi.

The registration document says the car (S3C) was first time registered in January 92, but the VIN number says year "M" so 1991, and number 2xx, so the beginning of 1991, before the number 340 change and solid tappets assembly.

So my question is : As I read some people carefully adjusted their hydraulic tappets with no noise change, is it a good idea to try to adjust it, or is the tappet noise a characteristic of this engine type with no chance to lower it ?

Sources :
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=94...
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=94...
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=92...

motomatchless

123 posts

168 months

Wednesday 17th April 2019
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Hi I had the same noise on my S3c wich should have had hydraulics but no they are adjustable, that means that the valves maybe where never adjusted. After I adjusted them, the engine was a LOT quiter.

motomatchless

123 posts

168 months

Wednesday 17th April 2019
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Hi I had the same noise on my S3c wich should have had hydraulics but no they are adjustable, that means that the valves maybe where never adjusted. After I adjusted them, the engine was a LOT quiter.

Fefeu52

Original Poster:

198 posts

66 months

Tuesday 23rd April 2019
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Thank you for your reply, I'll try to check that.

jimed

1,500 posts

206 months

Tuesday 23rd April 2019
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I had an S3C some years ago. That had hydraulic tappets but from not all of them did. There is a document that details which engines had the hydraulic tappets but I can't remember where I got it from (checked some Ile posts and there is a ref to the old Steve Heath books website but unfortunately that is no longer there. The hydraulic tappets are set differently so you do need to be sure that the engine has the hydraulic tappets as from memory there is no gap. No doubt someone will be along to advise further.
Enjoy the car, I had mine for quite a long time and really enjoyed it
Jim

Fefeu52

Original Poster:

198 posts

66 months

Tuesday 23rd April 2019
quotequote all
Yes, the change limit is described there :

Fefeu52 said:
The registration document says the car (S3C) was first time registered in January 92, but the VIN number says year "M" so 1991, and number 2xx, so the beginning of 1991, before the number 340 change and solid tappets assembly.
[...]
Sources :
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=94...
[....]
Post said:
According to TVR, S3C cars from VIN SDLDSC2P1MD011340 will be fitted with the same engine as fitted to the S3 with solid lifters (and higher compression, updated ECU). These should be treated as an ordinary 2.9 and have their tappets adjusted.

Fefeu52

Original Poster:

198 posts

66 months

Tuesday 9th July 2019
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Hi all,

This week-end, I finally found time to adjust my rockers. I've followed the procedure found here :

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid...

Valves overlapping --------------------Valves to adjust

No 5 cylinder ---------------------------No 1 cyl (in & ex)
No 3 cylinder ---------------------------No 4 cyl (in & ex)
No 6 cylinder ---------------------------No 2 cyl (in & ex)
No 1 cylinder ---------------------------No 5 cyl (in & ex)
No 4 cylinder ---------------------------No 3 cyl (in & ex)
No 2 cylinder ---------------------------No 6 cyl (in & ex)

With the engine in the correct position for the pair of valves to be adjusted,back off the adjusting screw until a large gap is obtained.Now screw it back in until the gap is just "0" without depressing the tappet. Finally turn the screw in one and a half turns,this will compress the tappet by about 2mm into its working position.Repeat the process,rotating the engine to its new position each time to get the next pair of valves "rocking".
On initial start up the tappets may "tap" for a few seconds until the hydraulics settle into the new position.

The result is impressive ! The engine is not knocking any more, even at cold start. I'm very satisfied, there is not noise to perturb the exhaust song smile

jimed

1,500 posts

206 months

Tuesday 9th July 2019
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Excellent news!
Jim

Fefeu52

Original Poster:

198 posts

66 months

Saturday 16th November 2019
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Ok, the winter is there... Coldness too, so it's time to achieve electronic projects. I built my diagnostic box this week and used it this afternoon.

The "ignition ON, Engine ON" gave me 42 and 92 code. I was too reach on both EGO sensors. I slightly lowered my fuel pressure and obtained 41 code. Too lean on one side. I mooved it up.. Very few and got 1-1-1.. PERFECT.

The "Ignition ON, engine OFF" procedure give me 52 and 53 code. I don't understand them.

Last procedure... Adjusting ignition advance... Maybe tomorrow.

Edited by Fefeu52 on Saturday 16th November 17:44

TJC46

2,148 posts

206 months

Saturday 16th November 2019
quotequote all
Fefeu52 said:
I finished the work inside. I replaced the steering wheel by a new Chinese one. The diameter is slightly bigger (14') but it 's an advantage with the S' heavy steering.

clap well done on the work so far and the seats look good.

Its personal choice....but refit the original TVR wheel, it looks so much better than your "chinese' one.

Fefeu52

Original Poster:

198 posts

66 months

Sunday 17th November 2019
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Thank you. You can be absolutely sure that I will not biggrin I really don't like the genuine wheel look. I will certainly replace the Chinese wheel by a stronger one... This is a shewing gum. Maybe a Momo Prototypo. But not the genuine one.

Fefeu52

Original Poster:

198 posts

66 months

Monday 18th November 2019
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I adjusted the ignition advance yesterday... and bunt my wrist on the exhaust manifold furious

It was set to 12°. I reset it to 15° BTDC as written there :

https://www.motor-talk.de/forum/aktion/Attachment....

for the catalytic version of the 2.9l. Throttle response seems to be far better. I had not enough time to do a road test. I'll do that next week-end.... If there is not snow on the road.

TJC46

2,148 posts

206 months

Wednesday 20th November 2019
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TJC46 said:
clap well done on the work so far and the seats look good.

Its personal choice....but refit the original TVR wheel, it looks so much better than your "chinese' one.
This is what you can achieve with the standard wheel.
https://www.facebook.com/trim.unique/photos/rpp.89...

Fefeu52

Original Poster:

198 posts

66 months

Friday 22nd November 2019
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Too much work to do to achieve this result (so too much money to spend and/or too much time to modify), for a result to much modern for me.