RE: Mazda RX-7: PH Buying Guide
Monday 16th October 2017
The pace of development among supercars was rampant in the early 1990s, yet one of the most exotic cars of the period came from a much more humble manufacturer: Mazda. Its third generation RX-7, known as the FD, came with a twin-turbo twin rotary engine that set it apart from the herd in more ways than just its design.
Well if there's a Bathurst availablePower started at 255hp thanks to sequential turbocharging that meant the first turbine came on song at low revs, while the second didn't kick in until 4,500rpm. That meant 0-62mph in 5.9 seconds and an engine that was unusually smooth with a very different sound to most rivals' four- or six-cylinder units.
Prices are going up as numbers go down...It remains a great road car, too, so finding a looked after example now will entertain and excite drivers who appreciate the simple rear-wheel-drive coupe format. They have plenty to choose from thanks to R, RS, RZ RB, A-Spec and Touring versions, the latter fitted with a four-speed auto in place of the five-speed manual in all the others. You may also come across cars badged as an Efini, which was a Mazda's sports brand in Japan.
Mazda RX-7: PH Buying Guide
An icon of 90s Japanese performance cars, the RX-7 is now a rare classic - here's how to get the best
Well if there's a Bathurst available
Power was increased by 10hp in 1996 for the Series 7 models, which used an improved ECU, while the Series 8 came with 280hp when it arrived at the beginning of 1999.
Praised for its handling and dynamic ability, the RX-7 still proved a tough sell in the UK and in other important markets around the world. By 1996, Mazda dropped it from its official UK line-up even after lowering the price to £26,000 from the initial £34,000.
Buyers stayed away and sales in the UK are estimated in the hundreds, with only 164 reportedly sold through dealers. However, there are many more imports available and the ease of tuning of the RX-7 has ensured its popularity with drifters, racers and track day fans.
Prices are going up as numbers go down...
Rarity has pushed RX-7 FD prices up in recent years and buyers are now more likely to want an original car than one that's been modified. Prices for a genuine UK car start at £20,000 for an immaculate example. Half that will get you an import in good condition.
Search for Mazda RX7s here
PHer's view:
"The FD is a modern classic. The looks, the performance and that engine all set it apart from other coupes. Just glad I got one before prices go crazy."
John Salter
Introduction
Powertrain
Rolling Chassis
Body
Interior
At a glance
 |
 |
Discussion
Big fan of these.
The 13B turbo can be wrung out to silly horsepower numbers, and those wanting even more can go for the 20B engine.
Australia has been modifying these for drag racing purposes for decades, and have many strong passes down the quarter mile. Coupled with relatively light weight, these make for a great car, just a shame that local support seems difficult here in the UK.
The 13B turbo can be wrung out to silly horsepower numbers, and those wanting even more can go for the 20B engine.
Australia has been modifying these for drag racing purposes for decades, and have many strong passes down the quarter mile. Coupled with relatively light weight, these make for a great car, just a shame that local support seems difficult here in the UK.
Good overview.
I still love my FD. It's not just the turbo rotary, it's the looks, the shrink-wrapped compactness, the turn-in, the balance, did I mention the way it looks?
There tend to be a lot of bad cars out there, so be careful. History, not just the service kind but also on a forum thread, is helpful; the more modified a car is, the more care is needed. Good FDs do exist!
If finding a good car is half the battle, finding a good specialist to maintain it is the other half. If you manage both, you're free to enjoy a really special, exciting car at what are still quite attainable prices.
Having said that, it doesn't need suspension mods unless you really want to get the best out of sticky rubber, the stock turbos are great when working, and the stock brakes hold up well on track with good pads, especially the RS-spec ones on the 17"-shod cars.
I still love my FD. It's not just the turbo rotary, it's the looks, the shrink-wrapped compactness, the turn-in, the balance, did I mention the way it looks?
There tend to be a lot of bad cars out there, so be careful. History, not just the service kind but also on a forum thread, is helpful; the more modified a car is, the more care is needed. Good FDs do exist!
If finding a good car is half the battle, finding a good specialist to maintain it is the other half. If you manage both, you're free to enjoy a really special, exciting car at what are still quite attainable prices.
F1GTRUeno said:
Honestly would want a bone stock one.
That's what I thought, but the stock intercooler and rad don't really hold up on track, so if you want to do trackdays then you'll get into engine mods. Then the stock sequential turbos can take a lot of work to get working reliably, an aftermarket wheel makes more space for your knees, ... Having said that, it doesn't need suspension mods unless you really want to get the best out of sticky rubber, the stock turbos are great when working, and the stock brakes hold up well on track with good pads, especially the RS-spec ones on the 17"-shod cars.
Hang on. Some corrections are needed here.
If you only drive on the road change the oil every 2,000-3,000 miles. Just use mineral 10w-40 to keep costs down as the rotary doesn't need synthetic.
If you track the car change the oil after a track day. The more time you spend at WOT the more oil you will use so don't expect 1L per 1,000 miles if you hoon everywhere.
MPG on the highway is about 24-26 mpg driving 70-80mph.
MPG in the city is about 14-18 mpg in London.
Finally, compression in the 7's and 8's bar is basically a new or low mileage motor. Compression in the 6s is just fine and will last several thousand miles. Car's will run with compression in the 5's just fine but then you are getting close to rebuild territory.
A bog standard rebuild of the entire motor will cost you about £2,500 to £3,000 by a specialist. But no one with a FD goes for a bog standard rebuild. You usually port it, use aftermarket apex seals and try to make more power via more boost or a larger single turbo.
I own a 1999 Type RS that is nearly standard like the car used in this piece.
If you only drive on the road change the oil every 2,000-3,000 miles. Just use mineral 10w-40 to keep costs down as the rotary doesn't need synthetic.
If you track the car change the oil after a track day. The more time you spend at WOT the more oil you will use so don't expect 1L per 1,000 miles if you hoon everywhere.
MPG on the highway is about 24-26 mpg driving 70-80mph.
MPG in the city is about 14-18 mpg in London.
Finally, compression in the 7's and 8's bar is basically a new or low mileage motor. Compression in the 6s is just fine and will last several thousand miles. Car's will run with compression in the 5's just fine but then you are getting close to rebuild territory.
A bog standard rebuild of the entire motor will cost you about £2,500 to £3,000 by a specialist. But no one with a FD goes for a bog standard rebuild. You usually port it, use aftermarket apex seals and try to make more power via more boost or a larger single turbo.
I own a 1999 Type RS that is nearly standard like the car used in this piece.
Edited by cib24 on Monday 16th October 19:55
samoht said:
That's what I thought, but the stock intercooler and rad don't really hold up on track, so if you want to do trackdays then you'll get into engine mods. Then the stock sequential turbos can take a lot of work to get working reliably, an aftermarket wheel makes more space for your knees, ...
Having said that, it doesn't need suspension mods unless you really want to get the best out of sticky rubber, the stock turbos are great when working, and the stock brakes hold up well on track with good pads, especially the RS-spec ones on the 17"-shod cars.
Not true, the stock intercooler and radiator on my 99 spec survived an extra 0.15 bar of boost pressure above factory levels and 2.5 years of track days. My compression is still high 7's. If you go much higher the twins will produce too much heat and then you need to consider an upgrade. Having said that, it doesn't need suspension mods unless you really want to get the best out of sticky rubber, the stock turbos are great when working, and the stock brakes hold up well on track with good pads, especially the RS-spec ones on the 17"-shod cars.
Stock engine setup will do track days all day long with a water injection setup.
As above, prices start at £5k for ones needing work (well a fair bit) right up to £25k for a Spirit Type A but for that money it needs to be minty fresh.
Avoid at all costs the dreamers that are in the classifieds on here and eBay. Lots of Richard Rawling wannabes.
As above, prices start at £5k for ones needing work (well a fair bit) right up to £25k for a Spirit Type A but for that money it needs to be minty fresh.
Avoid at all costs the dreamers that are in the classifieds on here and eBay. Lots of Richard Rawling wannabes.
kambites said:
How easy are they to work on? The engine bay looks a nightmare for access but that might just be because it's so unfamiliar to someone used to a piston engine.
Everything is a 12mm or 14mm few 17's and 19's chucked in. Piece of cake to get down to the nitty gritty. Replacing coils or exhaust manifold gaskets can take time but it's very easy to get around.I haven't seen one go for £5k that wasn't a complete piece of crap.
You need to start at like £8,000 to get anything that isn't going to require tons of cash to restore things like the paint, interior or motor immediately.
Anyway, the best cars listed on Pistonheads right now are these and I'm debating if I want a second one...
https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/...
https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/...
You need to start at like £8,000 to get anything that isn't going to require tons of cash to restore things like the paint, interior or motor immediately.
Anyway, the best cars listed on Pistonheads right now are these and I'm debating if I want a second one...
https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/...
https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/...
Matt p said:
Stock engine setup will do track days all day long with a water injection setup.
As above, prices start at £5k for ones needing work (well a fair bit) right up to £25k for a Spirit Type A but for that money it needs to be minty fresh.
Avoid at all costs the dreamers that are in the classifieds on here and eBay. Lots of Richard Rawling wannabes.
You don't need water. ECU adjusts for temp just fine. As above, prices start at £5k for ones needing work (well a fair bit) right up to £25k for a Spirit Type A but for that money it needs to be minty fresh.
Avoid at all costs the dreamers that are in the classifieds on here and eBay. Lots of Richard Rawling wannabes.
Gassing Station | General Gassing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff