Necessity and lack of funds dictated the 993 was based on the previous 964 model of 911. Intended solely as a stop-gap model, the 993 helped put Porsche back on the road to success.
Even so, the 993’s bodyshell was 80% new compared to the 964’s, with only the roof and bonnet of the 964 making it on to the 993. Styled by Brit Tony Hatter, the 993 incorporated a pop-up rear spoiler that automatically sprang up at 50mph and retracted at 5mph.
The body itself is 20% stiffer than the 964’s and is made of steel that is hot zinc galvanised. For this reason, rust on a 993’s body is a good indicator of poor repairs. Look for rust around the lower edges of the front and rear screens, and check the rear bumper stays by feeling for any movement when the rear bumper is pushed and pulled. Also look under the front bumper for signs of rust brought on by the long nose connecting with sleeping policemen or kerbs. It’s easy to overlook this area and there are air vents just ahead of the front wheels. If these vents are damaged, it means a whole new bumper to make good the repair.
Targa roofs are watertight but make sure they function properly as the electrics can fail with age, and be sure the wind deflector pops up. With Cabriolets, the plastic rear screen goes cloudy with age and is pricey to repair. Beware cheap replacement screens and hoods as they wear more quickly than genuine Porsche items.
The Targa uses the same body as the Cabriolet and the Targa roof is simply fixed in place instead of the soft-top. There’s additional bracing around the windscreen in the Targa to help it drive more like a coupe than a cabrio.
When looking at any 993, there are three places where the VIN (vehicle identification number) appears. Check the one in the logbook matches all three, which can be found on a metal tag fixed just under the front-mounted petrol tank, on the Vehicle Identification Label fixed to the right-hand side B-pillar and on a label sited in the left-hand lower corner of the windscreen.
While looking under the bonnet for the VIN tag, have a look at the paint on the chassis legs. Porsche didn’t spray colour coats all the way along these sections and left them in a white base coat. Any part that has been sprayed here may have had crash repairs, so tread carefully.
Check the door check straps as they stop the doors from opening too far but wear with age and fail. It’s usually easy to spot as the door will make a loud cracking noise when it reaches its fully open position. Some owners simply ignore the noise as replacing the check straps is costly. This route is preferable to cars where the check strap has been welded to the A-pillar as this will mean a much pricier fix in the future and can allow rust to take hold inside the door pillar.
The RS and GT2 have unique body additions, so be sure these are present and in good condition when buying as replacements are costly. With the Turbo and Carrera S models, look for damage to the broader rear wings, which increase the Turbo’s width by 60mm over a Carrera 2’s. The GT2’s bolt-on arch extensions are prone to damage and its bi-plane rear wing can pick up stone chips. Also look for damage to the delicate aluminium doors and bonnet of the GT2.
Headlights are easy to remove thanks to a small lever in the front luggage compartment releases the headlights for bulb replacement. Some owners have upgraded to Xenon headlights and recommend the swap.
Also inside the boot, the RS has a strut brace between the front suspension turrets, which have spherical joints and stiffer bushes. The RS’s bodyshell is also seam welded rather than spot welded for extra strength, and its wheelarches were gently pulled to clear the larger wheels and tyres. A unique front bumper with splitter is fitted along with a trademark whaletail rear spoiler. The Turbo also had a large ‘tea tray’ rear spoiler, sill mouldings and flared wheelarches. All 993s came with a 75-litre fuel tank, while a 92-litre tank was an option.
